McCulloch Chain Saws

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Was trying to mill some yellow wood (black locust?) here with my 7-10. A few minutes in I notice that the chain isn't oiled and becoming more tight and difficult to move. So of course I stopped.
I've cleaned the bar (the channel), and I've had the oiler open and have adjusted the nuts to open for more oil. But still, the oil seems to be stuck and not at all enough coming through. When I open the side, I see that the tail end of the bar has
oil on it, but nothing much and nothing is moved onto the chain and out. Additionally the sprocket also moves a bit up and down on its axis, wonder if its worn out and I should replace it. If so, I guess I have to take the clutch off. Anyone has had similar issues with oil supply to the bar, and what did you do to resolve it?

Cheers
Simon

EDIT: OK, never mind - I think I fixed it. Opened up the oiler even more and plenty oil is coming through when the bar is off. Will clean the holes and groove in the bar again and it it's not working its the bar, not the oiler I guess.

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As per above post- May I ask what is the symptom of a worn out sprocket? Because my chain is difficult to tighten, seems to increasingly get tight as I run it. Cheers.
 
As per above post- May I ask what is the symptom of a worn out sprocket? Because my chain is difficult to tighten, seems to increasingly get tight as I run it. Cheers.
An Oregon D176 mount bar would be a cheap alternative to the bar your running, the power match has a greaseable tip.
 
Just wondering what a D-45 is worth that's in fair condition?Honestly I don't think it's worth much more than $130.The seller wanted $200 & I got her down to $175,but I'm not paying that much.It's only an 80cc saw,but not many of them around.
 

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Just wondering what a D-45 is worth that's in fair condition?Honestly I don't think it's worth much more than $130.The seller wanted $200 & I got her down to $175,but I'm not paying that much.It's only an 80cc saw,but not many of them around.
I believe it is a genuine D-45,it looks identical to yours Mark.
 

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Do you pull the tip of the bar up when you adjust the tension?
I do, but maybe not consistently enough. I'm not sure. But as is the case I thought I better remove the clutch assembly and replace the spline. I had a new one on hand, they are both 3/8-7 (see photo). But the new one doesn't fit - diameter is too large. Shucks, that's the issue with buying stuff online I guess. Will head over to a brick-and-mortar shop to see if they have what I'm looking for. In addition though, what is the size I am running on this saw and what are some good standard splines I need to look for that fit the 10-series? Thanks in advance!

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Simon
 
I do, but maybe not consistently enough. I'm not sure. But as is the case I thought I better remove the clutch assembly and replace the spline. I had a new one on hand, they are both 3/8-7 (see photo). But the new one doesn't fit - diameter is too large. Shucks, that's the issue with buying stuff online I guess. Will head over to a brick-and-mortar shop to see if they have what I'm looking for. In addition though, what is the size I am running on this saw and what are some good standard splines I need to look for that fit the 10-series? Thanks in advance!

View attachment 897347

Simon

I do, but maybe not consistently enough. I'm not sure. But as is the case I thought I better remove the clutch assembly and replace the spline. I had a new one on hand, they are both 3/8-7 (see photo). But the new one doesn't fit - diameter is too large. Shucks, that's the issue with buying stuff online I guess. Will head over to a brick-and-mortar shop to see if they have what I'm looking for. In addition though, what is the size I am running on this saw and what are some good standard splines I need to look for that fit the 10-series? Thanks in advance!

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Simon
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I just bought a 10 pack of these.
 
There are three standard 7 spline sizes commonly used today. Stihl uses a "Mini" on some of their smaller saws up to and including the 036 size saws. I don't know the dimensions of those off hand.

The standard "Small" spline is 3/4" I.D. which is also referred to as 19 mm.

The standard "Large" spline is 7/8" I.D..

There were drums that fit the 10 Series saws in both Small and Large spline so you need to know which you have in order to get the correct sprockets.

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And one additional twist. There was a peculiar clutch and drum that was supplied on a few of the early SP80 saws. If you have a new drum in a package it will clearly say something like "SP80 only" or "All 10 Series except SP80". The clutch is easy to recognize since it has three shoes. The drum is harder to distinguish but it is slightly smaller in diameter.

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Mark
 
Thank you Supervisor and Heimann. Heimann - are you having or supplying a chainsaw museum? I just find the stuff you're sharing here absolutely amazing, but I'm, sure you hear that often. The walking encyclopedia for Mcculloch!

MS - I think you are right, mine must be 19mm "small" size. Why I'm saying that is because I the other spline I got was too large, so deducting from what Heimann explains, mine should be the 19mm. Theoretically it could also be the mini, but I just doubt that.

I'm also attaching a couple of pictures showing that the drum doesn't say anything specific, except for Made in Canada, McCulloch, and then GY, and the number 86948. Clutch is standard for the 10-series then.

Thanks much,

Simon



PS: Just now (Saturday morning, Japan time), I went to a brick-and-mortar store that sells power tools including power saws etc., this is a labourer store and not a home center. Surprisingly they do NOT sell splines, but the guy knew what it was instantly. So weird...I bet they have them out back but prefer people come with their saws to get them serviced rather than buying a spline and doing it yourself! I am all for supporting the local economy, but I want to do this myself.1616804064573.jpg1616804064579.jpg
 
I do have a museum and I am working on adding saws as I get them cleaned up .

See this thread for more of the story: https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/vintage-chainsaw-museum.324440/

Look at the photo of the SP80 drum inside the other drum above and notice how much thicker the spline is compared to the one in your hand; the SP80 drum is equipped with a large spline.

Mark
 
Thank you Supervisor and Heimann. Heimann - are you having or supplying a chainsaw museum? I just find the stuff you're sharing here absolutely amazing, but I'm, sure you hear that often. The walking encyclopedia for Mcculloch!

MS - I think you are right, mine must be 19mm "small" size. Why I'm saying that is because I the other spline I got was too large, so deducting from what Heimann explains, mine should be the 19mm. Theoretically it could also be the mini, but I just doubt that.

I'm also attaching a couple of pictures showing that the drum doesn't say anything specific, except for Made in Canada, McCulloch, and then GY, and the number 86948. Clutch is standard for the 10-series then.

Thanks much,

Simon



PS: Just now (Saturday morning, Japan time), I went to a brick-and-mortar store that sells power tools including power saws etc., this is a labourer store and not a home center. Surprisingly they do NOT sell splines, but the guy knew what it was instantly. So weird...I bet they have them out back but prefer people come with their saws to get them serviced rather than buying a spline and doing it yourself! I am all for supporting the local economy, but I want to do this myself.View attachment 897379View attachment 897378
I'd mail you one , but it would probably be alot quicker to find one locally or online.
I have converted a few of my 10 series saws to the newer Oregon rim drum that is large spline but have a couple saws that I just can't bring myself to change because they're like new.
 
Thats a great find , strange but I'd be excited about the cap.
Yes, me too especially when my hunch was confirmed that the cap fits! And for sure this particular spare part that had hung around in the tool shop for a couple of decades, the plastic packing was crumbling and all.

Meanwhile I found out a bit more on this gasiline cap: It is for a Japanese Shingu chainsaw (SP531). There are a few second hand caps like this for sale over here but seems even that isn't produced anymore. Incidentally (and this is just as much a tidbit of trivia for @heimannm to add to all the stuff he already knows, and @SEAM told me) - Shingu was also the distributor of McCulloch in Japan, so likely they copied a few things from the Macs back then, including gas cap design. Cheers!
 
Was trying to mill some yellow wood (black locust?) here with my 7-10. A few minutes in I notice that the chain isn't oiled and becoming more tight and difficult to move. So of course I stopped.
I've cleaned the bar (the channel), and I've had the oiler open and have adjusted the nuts to open for more oil. But still, the oil seems to be stuck and not at all enough coming through. When I open the side, I see that the tail end of the bar has
oil on it, but nothing much and nothing is moved onto the chain and out. Additionally the sprocket also moves a bit up and down on its axis, wonder if its worn out and I should replace it. If so, I guess I have to take the clutch off. Anyone has had similar issues with oil supply to the bar, and what did you do to resolve it?

Cheers
Simon

EDIT: OK, never mind - I think I fixed it. Opened up the oiler even more and plenty oil is coming through when the bar is off. Will clean the holes and groove in the bar again and it it's not working its the bar, not the oiler I guess.

Make sure the saw oils in milling posture (on its side). Pickup lines tend to harden over time and the oil filter may not be able to follow the oil (gravity) when the saw is on its side.
 

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