McCulloch Chain Saws

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I bought a sheet of uni-filter material and sowed it on the filter element (frocking was gone) with fishing line. Sort of a DYI Max flow filter. It works well, and is actually intended for that purpose.
Was wondering what foam from Uni you used? Looks like a winner to me.
 
Any one got some ideas on air filters for the 10-10A. I think the original filters suck at keeping out the fines. Has any body tried putting a foam over the flocking crap? Any ideas? Would they possibly fit?

I use hard felt from a craft store. It comes in sheets. It's polyester so it's gas proof, flows lots of air and works extremely well.
Hot glue definitely works and lasts.
 
I use hard felt from a craft store. It comes in sheets. It's polyester so it's gas proof, flows lots of air and works extremely well.
Hot glue definitely works and lasts.
Yep. Probably a lot less expensive and easier to source than the foam.
 
I did try the felt from the crafts store in various styles, but I had limited success with tuning in the carburetor with it. I did a little build thread on it.
The unifliter just worked for me but some guys have very good luck with the felt.


Never had that issue. Did you use regular felt or the hard felt?
 
Never had that issue. Did you use regular felt or the hard felt?
I tried a couple of different ones and followed your original post on it but just didn't get good results. I don't know if it was maybe jungle like atmosphere I'm in at the time or something else but I was getting way pig rich bogging with the felts I tried. I got them a hobby lobby.
 
I finally got the carb pulled off the 1-70.What a job to get the fuel line off! I had to go get the heat gun & apply heat to the line for about 20 sec.& the line practically fell off.I pulled the turret top off & could see a lot of sediment in the screen.As I went further I could see why the carb wouldn't & couldn't pull any fuel.The diaphragms were like cardboard,not very supple at all.It's all pulled apart & waiting to be rebuilt,it's just finding the time to do it right now.I've got one good day of weather & too much outside work to do.I'll probably rebuild it on Sat.when it's pouring rain out.

I bought a few HLRK88 kits off Feebay in 2020 & they turned out to be not so user friendly.After trying for quite some time to get the fulcrum screw in unsuccessfully I did a comparison on the needle seats & found they weren't the correct height.I contacted the sellers & they assured me that those seats were made to Tillotson specs.Yeah right.Just so it wouldn't be a total loss on the kits I ordered new seats & needles from VE Petersen.It took 6 months for that order to get filled & shipped because they had to wait for supplies to come from Ireland & Covid slowed the shipment down.Then I ordered some "Tillotson" kits & when I got them there were no needles,seats,or metering levers.It wasn't just a gasket & diaphragm kit,it was supposed to be a full blown kit.Another member & I concluded it was a counterfeit kit.
 
I bought a saw from our friendly seller in Vt.She stated it was a model 3427 810 (never heard of that one).There was much deliberation as to what model it really was.A lot of folks thought a 6-10.I got the "saw" today & what a sorry mess it is.The engine is siezed tight as a drum,the recoil is siezed & when I took it off the "saw" the clutch just started falling apart,the choke rod on the carb was siezed,& if I sneezed the muffler would disintegrate & fall off.The only good parts were the front handle & the air filter cover.I've bought saws from this seller before & sent them back for less being wrong than what's wrong with this one.BTW,the "saw" is a 2-10,much too small to be a 6-10..I can't believe the seller had the audacity to 1) list the "saw" & 2) ask $100 to start.Needless to say,this little turd that used to be a proud McCulloch is going back.Oh yeah,there was 30-40 yr.old fuel in the tank too.I've never seen so many cob webs in a saw in my life.
 
Does anyone know the SKF numbers for the 10-10 crank seals?
6119 for double lip PTO side and 6120 for single lip. I believe National 471551 / SKF-CR 5756 will apply to the FW side for most saws. Depends on the bearing used. There were two types of FW side bearings used with one actually receiving the seal while the other required the seal to be installed in the case location itself. That bearing can be challenging to find, but the seal is relatively common. Mark explains it in the link below,

https://www.arboristsite.com/posts/7540514/
 
Hi guys, I picked up a PM55, like I need another Mac project :) it's a runner, but filthy!
It has the short braked clutch cover, but the brake band is gone.
I remember reading that these saws are quite nippy, so I'd like to run it with a brake when I eventually get it cleaned up. I've been looking around ebay for a replacement (P/N 91238), but haven't come up with much. Found one in the UK, ca. 50 GBP/70 USD with shipping and all, bit steep. Looking through the seller's pictures, there's also a pic of packaging. Interestingly, it says "Valmadrera - (CO) - Italy", where I understood the Italian Mac factory was located, but they didn't produce 10-series saws.
Does anyone know if any newer Macs used this part, specifically Italian-made ones? Seems highly unlikely, but could be worth a shot to track down here if I knew the saw model?

band_91238A.jpg
band_91238A_packaging.jpg
 
Mark, Glad to help. I've seen other threads, of other Brands of Chain Saws, but no threads for Mcculloch. So I thought it was time to start. I was wondering who else had a collection of McCullochs, other than you and myself. I was surprised to see so many posts. Thanks to all that have, and will be answering to this thread. Bruce.
Have a Mac 1-10 sitting on the shelf in my shop in Jax. Florida. It needs points.
 
I had a bit of a problem with the air filter cover not wanting to tighten properly.I thought either the nut or the screw was stripped,but after looking it over closely I found that it just needed a washer under the retaining washer to take up some slack.It tightens up perfectly now.

Also,my 1-75 had a problem with the front handle being loose.Since there were about 8 screws that ran across the frame brace that runs from one side of the handle to the other,wasn't holding anything.Upon looking closer to that too I found that the lower bolts that hold the handle to the saw were loose.I tightened them up & it's good & solid again.Just a bunch of little odds n ends that needed to be attended to today.Hopefully I can get at the carb rebuild for the 1-70 tomorrow.Nothing but rain for the next few days,so a lot of inside work to catch up on.
 
Does anyone know the SKF numbers for the 10-10 crank seals?


Thanks. Jason.
Jason, take the flywheel off and measure the OD of the seal.
If it's 1-3/8" dia you need the 471551 or SKF CR5756 seal
If it's 1-1/2 and a bit more (1.5625 I think), you need the MAC 67906 seal.
@PogoInTheWoods knows of a place that sells a direct replacement for those.
 

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