McCulloch Chain Saws

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On yet another note,the Super 2-10 that I got a little while back came onto my bench again today.The saw had quit running abruptly the last time I was working on it.I put a new plug in it today & it'd sputter,but not run.Finally I got it running somewhat,but it was spitting fuel back at me.The carb was good for crap.I finally took a compression test on it & it came in at 115 psi - not good.So I tore it down to the short block for a new set of rings.I'll try to finish cleaning it tomorrow & put the new rings in.I can't do much more than that till I get my new O rings.
I ordered 2 clutch springs for the $20 parts RH Start Super 2-10 that the seller said had a "seized" motor.
The rope was part way out and would neither retract or move any further. Took the Start/Clutch cover off and the rope wound back up. 1 clutch spring was toast so the combo clutch/starter dawgs were wedged. Engine turns freely with spark plug removed and inside surface of clutch/starter sprocket isn't really scored at all.
Fingers crossed replacing both springs gets it going again......I am hoing to invest in a compression tester to check saws going forward now that I picked up the bug to fix Old McCulloch's......
 
Need help identifying this old Mac, any help would be appreciated and if you guys need more pics let me know. I have no idea why the recoil assembly is red lol
 

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Last year sometime a Seller in one of the vintage chainsaw sales groups on FB used a 2015 photo of some saws on a shelf in my shop to request "I buy vintage saws like these,,,let me know what you have blah blah..." :mad: I was more than a little pissed off,I reported him,and the photos + his listing was removed.Turned out he was a scammer who had taken a couple other's money yet didnt ship out any merchandise.....:mad:


I DESPISE thieves,period.Dont care what they are stealing for what reason either.

I called put some A hole in Alberta for listing a bunch of big old Stihl saws that I knew belonged to a guy in Australia. He was Peed off but took down the ad.
That doesn't stop them though.
 
I finished tearing down the Super 2-10 today & put the PTO side crank seal in while apart,much easier to do when apart.The FW side seal I'll get in after the engine is put back together.The new rings are in too,that was a bit tricky.I was so afraid that I was going to snap a ring.I'll try to get it back together more tomorrow.A little at a time.Something I noticed on this particular saw was that under the 4 bolts in the oil tank that hold the tank portion to the cylinder there were no O rings,there were rubber type grommets that the bolts slid into.I wonder why Mac didn't stay with that design?
 
Hey all, where would a guy go to learn about the big top tank saws, maintenance and rebuilding and the like. I've got a 790 and 1-76 I'd like to go through and do gaskets and seals. The 790 needs bearings I think as well. I've watched a few Bryan Gray videos on youtube working on the top tank saws but are there any other good sources of info on rebuilding these big saws?
 
Need help identifying this old Mac, any help would be appreciated and if you guys need more pics let me know. I have no idea why the recoil assembly is red lol
Flip it on its back, so that the bottom is up. Carefully clean between the bumps in the center of the crankcase. If you look closely, (if you are old like me, use a magnifying glass, or take a picture and enlarge it). What you will see, is the casting number indicating the model on one side of the crankcase. on the other side of the centerline, you will see the serial number.
Bob
 

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Flip it on its back, so that the bottom is up. Carefully clean between the bumps in the center of the crankcase. If you look closely, (if you are old like me, use a magnifying glass, or take a picture and enlarge it). What you will see, is the casting number indicating the model on one side of the crankcase. on the other side of the centerline, you will see the serial number.
Bob
Here might be a better example of the location of the model of the saw.
 

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Good call rotax and thanks for the information jock. It is a 1-40
Thanks. Here's the reason I recorded it. I sold this one that I got running a few years ago. In the video you can see I wasn't pulling fuel from the tank because the tank was a mess. Full of corrosion and spider webs. I didn't want to pull the face off to clean it because I didn't want to damage the oil tank and pump. I was clueless about that type of oiler and I had never seen one like it, but it ran good. All that was done was cleaning and rebuilding the carb.
 
I almost finished up the Super 2-10 yesterday.I ran into an issue with the duct muffler.Someone had been into the saw before & didn't put the correct bolt or a lockplate on the muffler.I had both here,so no real problem.Then there was the missing baffle & screw that holds the muffler to the engine block.All those little thing just take time.The only things left to do are set the points gap,put the FW on & set the coil air gap,put on the front handle & carb.Hopefully I didn't screw something up & it'll run again.
 
The easiest and safest way to replace that seal Ed is to remove the crankcase cover (side cover). You already have three screws out, and if you look closely you will see two of those holes are threaded 1/4-20 so you can use a puller to take the cover off.

DSCN0350.jpg

Once you have the cover off is it pretty easy to press the old seal out and the new seal in its place.

Mark
 
Leave it to me to screw something up.I put the Super 2-10 all back together only to find that the poppit DSP was caught in the spring for the decompression.I had to tear the saw half apart to get it released & now it doesn't work at all.I got the saw started (a miracle in itserlf),but it ran like crap due to a crappy carb once again.I switched carbs & now the saw won't start at all.It has great blue spark,but when I pull the new AC Delco CS45 plug it's wet.I took a compression test & it's only coming in at 125 psi,previously before the new rings it was only at 115 psi..I only had the saw running for 2-3 minutes.This is pretty much my first "successful" ring replacement where the saw ran after putting new rings in.The cylinder & piston were both in A-1 shape with no scoring at all.I'll have to put this saw on the sdhelf till I can get a good carb.I must have 4 SDC37s,2 SDc59s,2 SDC 49s,& 2 SDC2s,& 1 Tilly fixed hi jet that either won't hold pressure,or won't draw fuel.I'm stumped with the whole situation.
 
A few questions for the Rust-oleum club:

Is 2X the product you use?
If so, does this cope with the heat that chainsaws generate?
Is it suitable for the block as well as the outer parts?
Since it is a paint + primer, do you not bother with a separate primer first?
Do you apply a clear coat on top?
 
I personally would never use rattle can paint on a project that takes as much time and effort as a chainsaw disassemble, clean and paint or that takes as much abuse as a chainsaw. not to mention fuel and heat, it is an inferior product and process.
 
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