What are your likes or dislikes for each of these The gibs adjuster or the micro adjuster or the grillion. I want to use a flip line to and according to sherril website the grillion is not good for fliplines. I am going to trim some big red oak trees soon so hopefully i'll get some response before to long and i get the wrong one.
Mechanical lanyard adjusters which one
- Thread starter kurtztree
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
Teh Grillion is made to be used as a lanyard adjuster. The rope diameter is limited though.
You should check out the ART Positioner. It is really compact and can be adjusted in and out when it's loaded.
If you aren't going to be changing the lanyard, you could use an MR screw link. They are a little shorter than a biner. Be sure to get the right size and snug up the sleeve just a tiny bit more than finger tight. Don't over tighten. There are some stainless steel shackles that work well too.
Tom
You should check out the ART Positioner. It is really compact and can be adjusted in and out when it's loaded.
If you aren't going to be changing the lanyard, you could use an MR screw link. They are a little shorter than a biner. Be sure to get the right size and snug up the sleeve just a tiny bit more than finger tight. Don't over tighten. There are some stainless steel shackles that work well too.
Tom
i liked the $55 microscender better than the $66 Gibbs. i like the spare tension cables that Sherril now offers for the Micrscender; i ended up going without for a while without incident, but that is probably not best...... i remove quick pins on lanyard cams and put provided bolt/lock nut in their place.
For attatchment of the cheaper Microscender i favour extremely the $16 twisted clevis Sherrill offers, that was my slickest purchase one year, lineing that Microscender up just right and so discreetly. Now they have one for the Gibbs, that works so well.
But like/ partially because of Brian (heeeeeeeee's baaaaaaaaaaack) now i use the VT chord he recomends, lace the lanyard through the metal ring as knot tender too. Then i tie the chord right to the side D, dispensing with the cost/length/but disconnectivity options also of the carabiner. But, got used to leaving lanyard in one spot with twisted clevis, so loss of immediate repositioning/removal hasn't bothered me.
Never tried a Grillion. VT/frcition hitches adjust loaded like Grillion, cam devices aren't made to.
i really also like my lanyard with an aluminum snap.
For attatchment of the cheaper Microscender i favour extremely the $16 twisted clevis Sherrill offers, that was my slickest purchase one year, lineing that Microscender up just right and so discreetly. Now they have one for the Gibbs, that works so well.
But like/ partially because of Brian (heeeeeeeee's baaaaaaaaaaack) now i use the VT chord he recomends, lace the lanyard through the metal ring as knot tender too. Then i tie the chord right to the side D, dispensing with the cost/length/but disconnectivity options also of the carabiner. But, got used to leaving lanyard in one spot with twisted clevis, so loss of immediate repositioning/removal hasn't bothered me.
Never tried a Grillion. VT/frcition hitches adjust loaded like Grillion, cam devices aren't made to.
i really also like my lanyard with an aluminum snap.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Flipline adjuster
Currently I'm using a Distel hitch with micro pulley on a D shaped ball lock caribiner for flipline adjustment. I was using the VT, but with the braids it adjusted out a little to far for my liking, especially if you have to get in close quarters. I like this set-up works very good for me.
I used to use the the Gibbs with a MR screw link for the attachment to saddle. I also liked this set-up for 2 reasons. The Gibbs fit my my hand better than the Micro and worked a little better to me. The scew link stayed put on the D ring of the saddle, wouldn't flop around like a carabiner would. The one thing I just can't stand is a carabiner flopping around on a saddle and side loading and not staying in place where you want it.
As far a primary life support carebiners I've always been partial to the modified D auto lock key style from Petzel. The ball locks never did much for me, when it came time for attaching and detaching,the ball is just to small and hard to use, especially with gloves on. I've always prefered the key type over the pin because the pin type always snag and hang up on what ever it came in contact with. Little things like this can become a source of irritation, especially on a long climb in a big tree on a hot and humid day, when things aren't going the way you would like them to.
Well you've my heard my story for what it is worth, you just have to experiment and play with some gear till you find the right fit to your style and unfortunedly have to spend some money. I've spent money on some things that I wished I hadn't of, but that's the biz. Good Luck
Currently I'm using a Distel hitch with micro pulley on a D shaped ball lock caribiner for flipline adjustment. I was using the VT, but with the braids it adjusted out a little to far for my liking, especially if you have to get in close quarters. I like this set-up works very good for me.
I used to use the the Gibbs with a MR screw link for the attachment to saddle. I also liked this set-up for 2 reasons. The Gibbs fit my my hand better than the Micro and worked a little better to me. The scew link stayed put on the D ring of the saddle, wouldn't flop around like a carabiner would. The one thing I just can't stand is a carabiner flopping around on a saddle and side loading and not staying in place where you want it.
As far a primary life support carebiners I've always been partial to the modified D auto lock key style from Petzel. The ball locks never did much for me, when it came time for attaching and detaching,the ball is just to small and hard to use, especially with gloves on. I've always prefered the key type over the pin because the pin type always snag and hang up on what ever it came in contact with. Little things like this can become a source of irritation, especially on a long climb in a big tree on a hot and humid day, when things aren't going the way you would like them to.
Well you've my heard my story for what it is worth, you just have to experiment and play with some gear till you find the right fit to your style and unfortunedly have to spend some money. I've spent money on some things that I wished I hadn't of, but that's the biz. Good Luck
kf_tree
Addicted to ArboristSite
i've used the gibbs and the petzl (but not the micro) the spring breaks on the gibbs and the cable frays on the petzl. so no real preference as to which is better. they both work without the springs.
i attach it with a petzl screw lock oval. i like the petzl because of the red warning line.
i attach it with a petzl screw lock oval. i like the petzl because of the red warning line.
jblimbwalker
ArboristSite Operative
Knut on Am'D, 25 ft. lanyard.
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
The cable on my Microcender frayed and I couldn't find the spares that came with it when I bought it. For a couple of days I used it without the cable but I didn't like the soft return of the cam.
The replacement that I came up with is a short piece of weed whip line. The piece that I put in has lasted several months and cost nothing to make. I'll be curious to see how long it lasts. If it does break it will probably not be as nasty as the frayed cable.
Tom
The replacement that I came up with is a short piece of weed whip line. The piece that I put in has lasted several months and cost nothing to make. I'll be curious to see how long it lasts. If it does break it will probably not be as nasty as the frayed cable.
Tom
Kneejerk Bombas
ArboristSite King
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2001
- Messages
- 36,971
- Reaction score
- 9,980
Most folks don't undo their lanyard once it's attached, so what does the carabiner do in this setup?
jblimbwalker
ArboristSite Operative
'Biner attached to side D with hitch DFK'd to said 'biner. Mike, are you suggesting I attach cord/hitch directly to side D, omitting the 'biner altogether? I'm fairly new to using advanced lanyards, so if there's a better way I'm all ears.
Gord
ArboristSite Operative
exactly, so long as you don't swap lanyards around for different climbing different trees it's the way to go. simplify simplify...unless of course that fancy new gadget will be better than the old school way.
mikecross23
ArboristSite Guru
I use a wire core flip line w/ Petzl rope grab for most removals. The wire core flips better and should be a little more cut resistant. But don't depend on that. Connected w/ a Petzl ball lock.
For pruning I splice a rope snap to the end of a line about 10' long and then put another spliced eye at the other end. The distel w/ micropulley and petzl auto lock biner connect to my side D. The eye spliced end gets attached to a clip on the back of my saddle to keep it out of the way and secure. I like the biner holding it to my hip b/c sometimes I find myself moving my lanyard to my primary front connections in "extreme positioning situations." While pruning wide spreading trees I find myself getting creative to access the tips so I like the options.
I tried the knut hitch tied directly to my side D for a day and didn't like it.
-Mike-
Connected w/ a Petzl ball lock.For pruning I splice a rope snap to the end of a line about 10' long and then put another spliced eye at the other end. The distel w/ micropulley and petzl auto lock biner connect to my side D. The eye spliced end gets attached to a clip on the back of my saddle to keep it out of the way and secure. I like the biner holding it to my hip b/c sometimes I find myself moving my lanyard to my primary front connections in "extreme positioning situations." While pruning wide spreading trees I find myself getting creative to access the tips so I like the options.
I tried the knut hitch tied directly to my side D for a day and didn't like it.
-Mike-
