That was on one of those cheap little stihl saws though. Rope is the way to go.
Dan
Cheap until you haveto buy a piston for it
Metal piston stop or rope?
- Thread starter glennschumann
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Cheap until you haveto buy a piston for it
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cheap until you haveto buy a piston for it
I can only imagine. Cheap quality/performance is not equal to cheap cost.
Dan
I disagree on the performance aspect. They have good speed and power for what they're designed to cut.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Previous statement was a generality focussed at the economy over a wide spectrum and in no way insinuating that a STIHL of any type was low quality or performance!!!! Just happy I don't own a wussy saw that'll bend a rod trying to get the clutch off .
Dan
.Dan
Or have a piston crown that's only 0.075" thick!
99.9% of the time I'll use an impact wrench (dont get over excited when refitting and tightening the clutch, just make sure the sidecover is on when running the saw up and it will tighten itself anyway)
Other 0.1% I use 4mm starter rope doubled to prevent loose ends getting trapped in ports.
In the almost 16 years i've been working on saws (daily) I have never damaged a piston/rod or sheared a flywheel key.
Common sense is required though!
Other 0.1% I use 4mm starter rope doubled to prevent loose ends getting trapped in ports.
In the almost 16 years i've been working on saws (daily) I have never damaged a piston/rod or sheared a flywheel key.
Common sense is required though!
Where can I buy...?
Where I can buy the common sense?
Do any of the sponsors offer a package deal with rope, piston stop, and impact wrench?
I like the hydraulic lock idea, but sounds like it takes too much effort and probably won't work with my leaky old McCullochs anyway. Glad the old yellow saws all have a way to lock the flywheel using a 3/16" rod through the cover.
Mark
Where I can buy the common sense?
Do any of the sponsors offer a package deal with rope, piston stop, and impact wrench?
I like the hydraulic lock idea, but sounds like it takes too much effort and probably won't work with my leaky old McCullochs anyway. Glad the old yellow saws all have a way to lock the flywheel using a 3/16" rod through the cover.
Mark
icelation8
ArboristSite Member
Have you used the new design of the spoon?? part # 0000 893 5904 it is listed as a 192 c locking strip but it works 10 times better than the original plastic "spoon" This one is thinner and has aluminum or some sort of metal on the ends of it.
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madrone
Addicted to ArboristSite
I had one bad experience with rope and it was because I didn't notice a little fraying on the end I pushed in the jug. The damn thing got caught on the piston and jammed up then broke off when I tried to pull it out. Had to pull the jug to clear it up.
Admitted, this was all my fault but don't let it hapen to you! Make sure the end doesn't have any hangers!!!!:monkey:
Admitted, this was all my fault but don't let it hapen to you! Make sure the end doesn't have any hangers!!!!:monkey:
impact
adamc
ArboristSite Operative
For leaky saws or if light oil isn't handy, I hear that sand works well too. Distributes the force over the full area of the top of the piston and doesn't seep past the rings.
Adam
lumberinspector
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I've been using the metal piston stop but I went out and purchased some rope after seeing this thread.
I don't think I could use rope and bend up the internals like that done in another post but I know now that I could do what the piston stop did.
I don't think I could use rope and bend up the internals like that done in another post but I know now that I could do what the piston stop did.
RES
ArboristSite Operative
Ends of rope can easily be stopped from fraying by using a torch or charcoal grill lighter to singe the ends. It works quite well.
timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
:jawdrop:
Sand is one of a two strokes worst nightmares, I would never considder putting sand in an engine. If you were going to put something powdered in, maybe corn meal or something less abrasive or likely to damage surfaces or bearings. If oil is too thin squirt a little grease in with a grease gun, put a junk spark plug in an it should be good.
Still I think an air impact is the easiest on the engine (done with care). It works larrgly against the inertia of the crank and flywheel and because of that is going to put less load on the crank, rod and bearings. Also there is no trans-axial force on the end of the crank like what you get with a wrench or socket. Pushing or pulling on a wrench or ratchet twists the nut, but also it pushes or pulls the end of the crank sideways.
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adamc
ArboristSite Operative
Umm... sorry. Should have been more clear that my sand suggestion was a joke. A little while after posting it, I actually considered editing, but I figured no one would take it seriously.
So, for the sake of clarity NEVER put sand into an engine!! Unless of course it belongs to your wife's boyfriend.
Adam
Lloyd H
ArboristSite Operative
rope in cylinder
A little off topic but rope wadded in the cylinder holds four stroke valves shut to change the springs quite nicely as well. Air works but rope works better, with air the prop will beat you up when the engine rolls over.
A little off topic but rope wadded in the cylinder holds four stroke valves shut to change the springs quite nicely as well. Air works but rope works better, with air the prop will beat you up when the engine rolls over.
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oldsaw
"Been There, Milled That"
A few years ago I had to fix my FIL's riding mower. Memorial day weekend, the screws in the butterfly had come loose and the motor ingested them and the butterfly was resting on top of the intake valve. One screw in the cylinder the other in the muffler. Using what I had on hand, a beer can, some old screws out of a scrapped computer printer, some wire, epoxy, and threadlocker, I rebuilt the carb, tore off the top end (OHV Briggs) and put it back together again. I was a bit stumped on the valves until I started thinking two stroke and got some rope. Ran it for another couple of years before it drove a rod through the block. That thing had more hours on it than you could ever imagine. It was long past dead, it just didn't know it. Thank you Anheiser Busch.
Mark
Ptarmigan
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm just disassembling my first saw for a rebuild, and after slicing a couple of fingers open on my first attempt at removing the clutch, I read the manual, then I searched on here for other advise seeing how I can't get a piston stop at 9 o'clock in the mountains. Luckily I have the internet and all of you to help out. I thought about the rope, as we have plenty of that laying around. But the oil technique is familiar to me... used that on my van to remove the pilot bearing from the crankshaft. A few minutes later.... after running through which way the engines turning and the nuts turning to allow me to lock it off. The clutch is removed. It's draining right now as I learn how to remove the fly wheel. I'm planning on re ringing the piston so residual oil isn't really a concern right now. Thanks for the tip.
Sean
Sean
Thanks for the thread!
:yourock:Just stumbled upon this thread and it was extremely helpful for flywheel removal and installation on my Stihl HS81R & T. The rope worked awesome and saved me some headaches... except for the fact that I busted a fin off prior to finding this site. Now I know better.
Robert
:yourock:Just stumbled upon this thread and it was extremely helpful for flywheel removal and installation on my Stihl HS81R & T. The rope worked awesome and saved me some headaches... except for the fact that I busted a fin off prior to finding this site. Now I know better.
Robert
