Millin' again vol.2
- Thread starter aggiewoodbutchr
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aggie--jhook--neat idea--but going down the log--doesnt the weight of the bar make it slowly dip???? oly
Oly,
I believe that the momentum of the chain in combination of the fact that the bar is supported the full width of the log once in the cut keeps the cut fairly level. The remaining bar exposed outside of the cutting width shouldn't be sufficiant enough to cause dipping since it is supported on the end. Also, the GB mill has a support for the powerhead which I imagine helps greatly with a wide setup like Aggies.
Dave
I believe that the momentum of the chain in combination of the fact that the bar is supported the full width of the log once in the cut keeps the cut fairly level. The remaining bar exposed outside of the cutting width shouldn't be sufficiant enough to cause dipping since it is supported on the end. Also, the GB mill has a support for the powerhead which I imagine helps greatly with a wide setup like Aggies.
Dave
aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
AMD got it pretty much on the button. As long as the mill tracks on the rails properly and the chain is symetrical and sharp, the bar holds the line in which it was started pretty well.
OZDOG
ArboristSite Member
just a thought
i was thinking about the sag in the bar today and it got my mind ticking over. maybe the diagram will explain what i mean but i've never used one of those mills so i might not be on the right track....
(amendment to the text on diagram, should read; '90 degrees or less to keep bar tensioned. it may stop bar sag')
i was thinking about the sag in the bar today and it got my mind ticking over. maybe the diagram will explain what i mean but i've never used one of those mills so i might not be on the right track....
(amendment to the text on diagram, should read; '90 degrees or less to keep bar tensioned. it may stop bar sag')
aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's exactly what I used to do before I modified the bar nose mount. I can still tweak out some of the sag using this method but not all without putting an excessive amount of torque on the bar tip. Basically, I traded having to use the J hook for absolute maximum cut capacity.
Nice sketch BTW.
aquan8tor
ArboristSite Guru
Have you ever used a hardnose bar on a mill before? I got a 42"--CHEAP on ebay a while back, with the idea of drilling out a semicircular section of the tip and putting in a helperhandle/tensioner on the end. I was going to try to put a larger sprocket on the granberg helper handle and use that as a functional "sprocket nose" for the bar. Its a project for later in the winter, but anyone done this?
aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sorry, can't help you on that one. Sound's interesting though.
aggiewoodbutchr
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I was delayed for a couple of days due to a blown crank case seal but I was able to finish this log yesterday.
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aggiewoodbutchr
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More pics. All that's left to do now is move it into shelter, sticker it and wait...
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flht01
ArboristSite Operative
How thick did you cut those?
aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
2 1/4"
wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was delayed for a couple of days due to a blown crank case seal but I was able to finish this log yesterday.
This one would make a sweet bar top or blackjack table.
Canyon Angler
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey, Aggie, great pics and great saw setup, thanks for posting.
Question: You said that water oak has been down since last summer. After you slab that stuff out, do you paint it or coat it with anything to slow down the drying process and (hopefully) prevent really radical warping/twisting/cupping/checking?
That looks like some real nice wood. I'm envious and would love to see some after it's sanded and finished!
Question: You said that water oak has been down since last summer. After you slab that stuff out, do you paint it or coat it with anything to slow down the drying process and (hopefully) prevent really radical warping/twisting/cupping/checking?
That looks like some real nice wood. I'm envious and would love to see some after it's sanded and finished!
aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey, Aggie, great pics and great saw setup, thanks for posting.
Question: You said that water oak has been down since last summer. After you slab that stuff out, do you paint it or coat it with anything to slow down the drying process and (hopefully) prevent really radical warping/twisting/cupping/checking?
That looks like some real nice wood. I'm envious and would love to see some after it's sanded and finished!
Thanks.
I stack and sticker slabs back in order and then slowly dry them in a barn. Figured wood like this is nearly impossible to dry perfectly. I do as much as I can to prevent checking, etc. and hope for the best.
I have looked into PEG stabilization but acquiring enough of the chemical to treat slabs of this size is expensive.
When I first got my GB mill, I tried it with a 30" Stihl hardnose on my 075. I think I made it all of all about 12" into the first cut and the chain locked up tight. I had to pry it out of the bar tip. Spread the rails a bit and tried again. The chain had, if possible, nearly melted the tip. I had the auto oiler turned all the way up and had given it a squirt with the manual oiler. Anyway, the bar was junk (I still have it somewhere). Picked up a GB 36" protop sprocketnose, and never looked back.
Next time I mill, I have plenty of different options for a powerhead other than the 075--084 or 088 or 090. Probably I'll use the 088, but I need to find a 1/2 wrap handlebar.
Chris B.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=16799&highlight=075+GB+mill
