Milling Chain opinions

[bman]

I have been milling using oregon 75CJ 3/8th .063 full skip chain pulled on a 36" bar with a 3120. The cutters filed to 0 deg. with a 7/32 round file and rakers set to .040. was wondering what some of the other millers have found to pick up milling speed. I am doing a lot of 18"-20" slabs in Doug fir. On a fresh chain I cut the initial top slab and then the sides and I feel its time to sharpen. Once I get a clean cant and start making 8X8" timbers a fresh chain seems to last a lot longer. Doesn't take too long to sharpen but eats up the cutters pretty quick. Was wondering if anyone square grinds for milling?. Or how about using a 13/64 file to gain a little more hook?
Also I notice the best cutting occurs at a slightly reduced chain speed from wide open, cutters seem to settle in and bite, loading the saw motor. Wide open it seems that the cutters are kinda "skipping", the cutting speed falls slightly and the motor screams. Whats your guys experience? My most valuable bit of hard earned wisdom, "get the chain as perfect as you can, same cutter length, angles and raker depths or go home"

 

[DonE911]

Well I'll put in my 2 cents, although I'm not milling the same type stuff or as big. I've been milling mostly red oak and poplar.
I've been using the .365/.50 stuff that baileys sells. It's not to great off the roll, at least not for me it isn't, but it works good after I regrind it and set the rakers. I really like the stihl chain that logosol sells, but they only sell it in loops and its not cheap. My local dealer tried for hours to locate me a roll of the stuff, but couldn't. The box the loop comes in states its for the canadian market only.
My saw's are 066 mags and I use bar legths up to 25". I have found that 5 deg works best on the red oak and 3 deg works best in the poplar and the few pines I have done. Sideplate I've been playing with recently and 65 to 75 has been good with little difference.
I agree that just below max rpm cuts bestest and fastest Just keeping the saw in this range isn't always easy. My chains will make 10-12 cuts ( 8 to 12 feet log length ) before I change saws out ( or change chains ). I don't bother filing the chain, I just put it on the grinder at the end of the day ( or whenever ).
As for getting more speed ... hmmmmm ... get everything you can out of the chain.... Its just my opinion, which may not be right, but I think you'd have to get more rpm's and a higher power band ( maybe not the right term ) to get more speed. Doesn't that 3120 have a rev limiter? I've been thinking about having a saw modded to see if I could get more speed. I was thinking about a modded 088 until I found out it wouldn't fit the saw sled on my M7.

man this is a little long... I'll shut up now.

 

[bman]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts Don. I may bet a new loop of square grind and see if I can hand file it, maybe try your specs on some doug fir. I wonder if the higher chain speed causes the cutters to "skim" instead of bite? Fast saws seem to be the ticket on cross cuts so maybe cutting end grain calls for a different approach. Today I experimented by filing with a 13/64 file and lowered the rakers to .050" It was noticeablely faster and made small chips instead of dust. Could just be the filing with a new file, or the raker depth change, or the added "hook from the smaller file.Maybe all three!
I think I'll try a 3/16 file next and see what I get. Bman

 

[klickitatsacket]

Also I notice the best cutting occurs at a slightly reduced chain speed from wide open, cutters seem to settle in and bite, loading the saw motor. Wide open it seems that the cutters are kinda "skipping",

Couple questions? 1- what are your rakers set at? 2 -Is your chain too tight? I would say that it could be possible that one or a combination of the two are causing your problem.

 

[bman]

Raker depth is as stated above (.050) I considered the chain tension as was pointed out not to long ago in a thread discussing the relationship of cutter length to raker depth and the need for the cutters to "porpoise" in and out of the cut, which I guess requires a certain amount of chain slack. WIll experiment with that some also.bman

 

[DonE911]

I keep my chain fairly tight... bordering on too tight. Speed seems to be the same and finish is smoother. Rakers at .25 to .30 ... still playing with this so no opinion on this yet.

 

[Grande Dog]

The other thing you can try is to have the bar and chain at a 5-10 degree angle to the log. If you go much more than that you'll get to long of chips and plug your clutch cover, which is also counter productive.

Grande Dog
Master Mechanic
Discount Arborist Equipment and Tree Care Supplies

 

[whatsnext]

Wouldn't it make sense to just gut the clutch cover and use some other means to keep your fingers away from the clutch? I wouldn't want to make a hand held chainsaw mill any more dangerous than it already is but it might keep the cluch cooler.
John........

 

[Grande Dog]

You're exactly right but, since we sell these things I won't recomend doing that.

Grande Dog
Master Mechanic
Discount Arborist Equipment and Tree Care Supplies

 

[Lawn Masters]

There will be people that are just stupid enough to do such things, then get hurt, and sue the person who gave em the idea in the first place.

 

[cbfarmall]

I removed the clutch cover from my 075 and made an aluminum block to take its place. The way the mill I have mounts to the saw, halfway covers up the clutch also.

Chris B.

 

[jimbo1490]

My experience is limited but I have found that the teeth set to zero degrees top angle dulls quickly. I get one or two cuts in the oak I'm cutting and then have to sharpen. I reset for 10 degrees and it stays sharp longer and cuts a little smoother with less vibration problems. Vibration in the cut can be a big problem. Slowing the saw down helps and it seems you only have to slow down momentarily. I find that once the vibration stops I can then slowly speed back up to full speed and it won't return, YMMV. Must be some sort of 'chattering' with the cutters. I run the chain tight.

Have been experimenting with having a helper pull the saw along with a strap hooked to the milling attachment while I guide and hold the throttle. Much smoother, faster cuts and a LOT less tiring.

Jimbo

 

[bman]

I have never had a problem with the clutch cover clogging up. Just never happened. Has anyone had experience using Oregon RD ripping chain out of the box? Looks like it comes ground at 10 deg top plate with .025 raker depth, sounds more like a cross cut chain to me.

 

[woodshop]

I have never had a problem with the clutch cover clogging up. Just never happened. Has anyone had experience using Oregon RD ripping chain out of the box? Looks like it comes ground at 10 deg top plate with .025 raker depth, sounds more like a cross cut chain to me.

I too have never had my cluth cover clog up while RIPPING wood... other cuts, sure, but not the fine chips made while ripping. Yes I use oregon ripping chain right out of the box... 36 inch bar with a 395XP, mostly hardwoods, oak and cherry. Very happy with it, as it seems to last a while before I need to sharpen. I too put about a 10-15 degree slant on the bar going through the cant when milling, especially on stuff over 24", and that seems to help. Of course, on the 30"oak I did last month, not enough bar to do that with my 36"... but still slanted it as much as could.

 

[Crofter]

I experimented a bit with a ripping chain that has a progressive amount removed from the top plates. The first cutter has all of the top plate removed except for the portion that caps the side of the tooth. The next tooth on the same side has about 1/3 of the top plate removed and the next tooth is complete. All are filed virtually straight across. I do drop the file in the tooth to get more hook. It seems to penetrate very well. I made up a clamp from a set of vice grips that holds the tooth while I zip the top plates with the grinder and thin disc. It really is quicker to do than to describe. My son is the ripper. 066 32" bar Alaskan Mill.
Some pics

 

[bman]

Thats interesting Crofter, kinda similar to the Granberg milling chain. I had an interesting experience today while milling, cut up a log that is full of long pitch pockets. Had a hard time making usable timbers as the pockets ran the length of the log. Pitch is not good for making rapid cuts or for maintaining a sharp chain!

 

[mackie]

i like granberg ripping chain.