More chipper stuff, Bandit 250XP disc refresh

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

swyman

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Sep 24, 2009
Messages
348
Reaction score
23
Location
Blissfield, MI
Have a '02 250XP with 1500hrs and noticed the disc is wearing. It's kind of hard to see in the pics but the center of the disc is wearing where the chips go through. It looks like it is getting close to the knife mounting bolts. Am going to do a weld build up with 309 stainless. Was going to use a hard surface rod but I have a whole spool of 309. I know stainless is very hard also but just wondered if you guys ever ran into this issue. I may call Bandit first to see what they recommend.View attachment 226745View attachment 226746
 
Are you positive it's only 1500 hours? Hour meters are mad cheap and easy to replace.
 
My '01 200xp has well over 3000hrs on it and the pockets are still 1/2" or so away from the knife bolts. I would think welding the wheel may throw it off balance if you're not super careful. I'm also not so sure that the 309 will adhere well enough to be used in that application. ???
 
the disk on my morbark 200, not sure on hours, has severe wear on the disk not so much like the one pictured (close to bolts) but it has more of a V worn into the disk. I need to check the blades if I get around to doing it any time soon I'll try and get a pic
 
Are you positive it's only 1500 hours? Hour meters are mad cheap and easy to replace.

Had 1460 on it when I bought it. It's an '02 but was a rental unit somewhere. It is in really good condition, motor does not use any oil, and has just been perfect. I would love to paint it and put a sticker kit on but maybe next year. It could have more hours than what is on the HOBBS but overall is great. Has auto-feed also which helps to. Bought it at a online repo aution last spring, paid $12k and no regrets.
 
Need a few more pics to see whats going on...
never heard of disc wearing out...could just be me though..

I will paint then block it tomorrow so the low spots will show up better. I'll measure with a scale how deep it has worn also.
 
the disk on my morbark 200, not sure on hours, has severe wear on the disk not so much like the one pictured (close to bolts) but it has more of a V worn into the disk. I need to check the blades if I get around to doing it any time soon I'll try and get a pic

That's exactly what I have going on. The pics don't show very well, will take different ones tomorrow.
 
Oh, one other thing I was thinking of doing while I have the chute off is cut a window on the underside of the chute at the bend for a much easier clean out if it plugs. It happened 3 times this past year and was a major PITA. If that chute had a access door it should speed the process up considerably. Anyone done this?
 
Oh, one other thing I was thinking of doing while I have the chute off is cut a window on the underside of the chute at the bend for a much easier clean out if it plugs. It happened 3 times this past year and was a major PITA. If that chute had a access door it should speed the process up considerably. Anyone done this?

Been thinking about a cleanout panel on my chute, just like you're saying. Leylands like to get clogged in mine worse than anything else, we keep a close eye on the discharge and keep a jameson with an old blade on it handy, especially when chipping wet pine or leyland cypress. PITA.

My bolt pockets look a lot like yours in the pics, interested to hear what the consensus is.
 
Been thinking about a cleanout panel on my chute, just like you're saying. Leylands like to get clogged in mine worse than anything else, we keep a close eye on the discharge and keep a jameson with an old blade on it handy, especially when chipping wet pine or leyland cypress. PITA.

My bolt pockets look a lot like yours in the pics, interested to hear what the consensus is.

We used to use a jameson too but what works really good is an old garden hoe, just about perfect size for shoving in a chipper chute and freeing up clogs.
 
Been thinking about a cleanout panel on my chute, just like you're saying. Leylands like to get clogged in mine worse than anything else, we keep a close eye on the discharge and keep a jameson with an old blade on it handy, especially when chipping wet pine or leyland cypress. PITA.

My bolt pockets look a lot like yours in the pics, interested to hear what the consensus is.

the type 309 stainless will have no problem fusing to the disk, (a36 steel) grind surface well in weld area and use tri-mix gas mixture. while stainless is tough to drill, it is not very abrasion resistant however. i would not reccomend welding the worn areas without post-weld balancing. the wear is probably quite uniform on opposing knife pockets, so item is still in balance. no need to screw up bearings with and out of balance wheel. regards, tom.
 
Gonna check my 250 out when I get down to the shop. I've got something like 2150 hours on mine. I think I would have noticed anything like what you got going on there, but ya got me worried now! Lol.
 
More chipper stuff

Husabud is correct about building back up the area that's disappearing. If you're going to rebuild this area, test the chipper before putting it back in to service. Simply start and engage the clutch and take it up to full speed (don't put any wood through the chipper). If the chipper starts to jump up and down, you are out of balance. All drums and discs are balanced by the manufacturers before being sold. The disc could be pulled and sent back to Bandit for repair. It does take a large industrial type machine to spin balance a drum or disc. Oh yeah, I would remove the knives before testing the balance of the disc. Also, check the fan paddles for cracking in the bends as they have a tendency to crack from the flexing.

Hope this helps!

Eq Broker
 
Husabud is correct about building back up the area that's disappearing. If you're going to rebuild this area, test the chipper before putting it back in to service. Simply start and engage the clutch and take it up to full speed (don't put any wood through the chipper). If the chipper starts to jump up and down, you are out of balance. All drums and discs are balanced by the manufacturers before being sold. The disc could be pulled and sent back to Bandit for repair. It does take a large industrial type machine to spin balance a drum or disc. Oh yeah, I would remove the knives before testing the balance of the disc. Also, check the fan paddles for cracking in the bends as they have a tendency to crack from the flexing.

Hope this helps!

Eq Broker

You're sure bandit will repair a disk?

Just checked mine (2150 hrs) and it's worn quite a bit more than the original poster's. Ouch.

Waiting to hear from bandit on a price for a new one (not that I can afford it at the moment, but will be good to know). I had to call them about something else anyway. I can only imagine the ass ramming they'll be trying to lay on me for this one.. funny thing, it's their inferior part that's the problem. This should be interesting. I may be taking back all the good things I've said about these chippers over the years. Always some bull#### with this business..
 
Gonna check my 250 out when I get down to the shop. I've got something like 2150 hours on mine. I think I would have noticed anything like what you got going on there, but ya got me worried now! Lol.

It's not a 911 but just want it perfect.
 
Back
Top