Most expensive wood I ever found.

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Craz z

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Well theres another thread about a newb (me) asking about cutting in the high winds of montana.

Well the wind didnt get me but a stupid little hill with ice under virgin snow caught me by surprise.
My trailer jacknifed coming backwards from sliding down this hill and kissed the side of My pops truck.

SO I got about 1/2-3/4 of a cord of wood and it will cost me 1,700$ for this slip up.

I thought it was high and still do but i'm not going to argue as its not mine and I always man up to my mistakes as painful as it is. View attachment 207484View attachment 207485View attachment 207486View attachment 207484View attachment 207485View attachment 207486
 
idk, not a really bad dent, looks like an easy paintless repair, find a local guy that knows what he's doing and have him do a paintless repair, and get a fender gard off ebay or OEM parts store

I had some paintless dent removal done on my car, and he had stuff in his shop worse than that

IDK man just trying to give ya my .02
 
idk, not a really bad dent, looks like an easy paintless repair, find a local guy that knows what he's doing and have him do a paintless repair, and get a fender gard off ebay or OEM parts store

I had some paintless dent removal done on my car, and he had stuff in his shop worse than that

IDK man just trying to give ya my .02

Seconds on the paintless repair. A good dent guy can work magic on a unitary crease if the bend at the apex doesn't chip. Ask your insurance company for a dent referral. They deal with this stuff all the time and know the market. You might get off with just a couple hundred bucks, especially if your pop will accept a good faith 95% solution.
 
A women put a crease down the side if my pick up bed with her mirror and I got $3800.A suction cup got it looking good enough and the money went in my pocket.I can see that being $1700 not that I would ever pay to have it fixed.This is a good one to.About a month ago a women backed into my DD and caused some light damage.It literally took me 20 min to get all the damage fixed except for some minor scratches with a cost of 0 and I got $1500.Needless to say my wood hauler has a new trans now.:msp_thumbsup:
 
Learn new stuff ever' day.....

....so that's an "accident". Weird, I thought all trucks came with such little modifications with them, stock, sorta like to give 'em character. All the trucks I ever owned or own now did...

Bwa! Hope you can get it fixed cheaper, man. $1700 would have got you your own "previously modified and still running" truck.

No wonder freaking insurance costs so much for rides nowadays.....when I started driving, 1700 bucks would buy you a brand new cheap car, or a helluva good shape nearly new used one!
 
I just jacked knifed a trailer into my truck (long story short the wheel of the trailer got hung up on something and turned much faster than it should have.:bang:) The damage was behind the wheel well and probably a bigger dent than in your picture and require a decal which gm charges 40 bucks for. The dealer's body shop wanted 900 to fix it and the independent shop was 750. The repair required a repaint of a majority of one side of the bed. Oh yeah my truck is a 2009 Silverado, so it uses all that expensive new paint stuff.

Oh yeah I went in telling the shop I wasn't going to be using insurance. So that could have helped the rate a bit. If car insurance is anything like medical they have to charge like 2 times what they expect it to cost. So that when the insurance company says we will only pay half that they come out not taking a loss.
 
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two things-

first, how do you wrap a trailer around that far without destroing the bumper and bedside?

second, i would at least attempt to pop that out with my hand first. i'm an ex-body man and if you would have tried to pop that out right away it may have worked.

well three things i guess-

third, good on ya for stepping up and fixing your pops truck! not many would do so these days.
 
That is not a 1700 dollar fix, I'd shop around or claim it on insurance

I'm afraid that _is_ in the ballpark. They will not do 'spot touchups, they will either replace or 'unding' that panel and then repaint the entire panel.

A reportale accident in Washington State is $700. There is _no_ body damage you can get fixed for that cheap.

Harry K
 
My homeowners insurance just paid out $1200 for my screw up. Hauling wood from the back of a lady's house down a steep track with a rider mower and garden trailer. Side hill, high load, trailer tipped over, blocks roll down about 10ft and put two dime sized dings in the side of a new Lincoln Continental.

Harry K
 
It doesn't look that bad. Had a bed side fixed that was much worse and a new tail light for $500. I paid cash instead of insurance. If that's an option I could see it getting fixed much cheaper. Myself I would just leave it anyway.
 
I am currently in the body repair business and $1700 sounds like a fair price for a quality repair. The right way to fix that is to replace the welded on bedside panel. It is held on by a combination of welding, adhesives and foams that are expensive to replace. The outer panel you see is connected to several panels that you dont and there is no access to the back of the panel. To restore the truck to the way it was before is probably 15-20 hours of labor for an experienced tech, $500+ in parts and several hundred dollars worth of materials. The repair will be invisible and will outlast the rest of the vehicle. Most reputable shops will offer a warranty that the repair will last for the life of the vehicle. There will be very little difference in the cost of this repair from shop to shop as there is a standard for how much time each repair will take and parts prices are all pretty much standard.

A legitimate body shop is trying to pay an experienced bodyman maybe $20 an hour to work in harsh conditions. He is trying to pay for a $100,000 frame straightening machine and computerized measuring system required by insurance companies. There's the $100,000 paint booth required by OSHA and EPA. He is using EPA mandated materials to paint the car that cost in the neighborhood of $20 per SF to use (A $30 can of house paint is about $1.50 per sf for two coats). and countless other specialized tools. Building a new bodyshop from scratch is proabably a $1million+ investment. In fairness, most of these requirements are for the safety of the workers and cars are built to much tighter tolerances than they once were.

The panel could be repaired and it would look good. It still requires expertise and expensive materials. Lack of access to the back of the panel means that you can't replace existing corrosion protection that will be removed in the accident and repair process. It is likely that after several years, maybe less, that the bedside will start rusting. The design of these bed sides lends itself to rusting anyway. The labor will be similar to the high quality repair as will materials but the parts cost will be taken out. Still an $800-1000 repair.

Billy Bob's Bondo Shack could drill some holes, pull it out, slap a little bondo on it. It might look OK for a little while but it will probably start to fade and you will start seeing scratches. The color may not be quite right. It will probably start rusting in 6 months. Even this is probably a $400-800 repair.

idk, not a really bad dent, looks like an easy paintless repair, find a local guy that knows what he's doing and have him do a paintless repair, and get a fender gard off ebay or OEM parts store

I had some paintless dent removal done on my car, and he had stuff in his shop worse than that

Paintless Dent Repair (PDR in the biz) is for hail dings and shopping cart damage. It requires access to the back of the panel. Dents stretch the metal. It has to be shrunk to return to place. When you shrink the metal you end up with a micro washboard surface. The smaller the dent, the less the metal needs to shrink. The bigger the dent, the more chance you have of breaking the paint or being able to see the washboard (wavy surface). Once the paint is cracked it needs refinished. You may have seen worse dents in your PDR guy's shop, but I guarantee you he was repairing them the old fashoned way.


two things-

second, i would at least attempt to pop that out with my hand first. i'm an ex-body man and if you would have tried to pop that out right away it may have worked.

It doesn't really matter how long the metal is stretched for, all that matters is that its stretched. Five seconds or five years later the repair is the same. Think of a flat panel. before the accident you had ---- after the accident you get \/ where the dent is both hhigher and lower than the contour of the original panel. You need to make it something more like vvvv for repair and then fill in the low spots. You have to turn the stretched metal into an accordion, or use heat (torch) to shrink it. If all you do is pop the dent out then you just turn \/ into /\.

It sucks that you messed up your dad's truck but you did the right thing. If the shop charged for the insurance quality repair and did less then that is a problem. If he took it to a reputable place then they probably did the right repair.
 
On my 2nd year of burning I put a dent in my pops' truck bed - not even bad but he's a perfectionist. $200 later (he's a body man and charged me only for materials) I started looking for my beater.
 
Well theres another thread about a newb (me) asking about cutting in the high winds of montana.

Well the wind didnt get me but a stupid little hill with ice under virgin snow caught me by surprise.
My trailer jacknifed coming backwards from sliding down this hill and kissed the side of My pops truck.

SO I got about 1/2-3/4 of a cord of wood and it will cost me 1,700$ for this slip up.

I thought it was high and still do but i'm not going to argue as its not mine and I always man up to my mistakes as painful as it is. View attachment 207484View attachment 207485View attachment 207486View attachment 207484View attachment 207485View attachment 207486

I'll give you $1700 to make my 2000 Silverado wood hauler look that good.
 
WOW guys thanks for the overwhelming responses AS rocks:rock:

I'm buried under mount everest for work so I don't have the time to go shopping. It would take me an entire day and driving 30miles to the nearest real town.

I tried the cash in hand card no budgy on that.

Thought about the PDR guys but doubt its a job for them and there would still be a small scratch in the fender flare.

If it were my truck i'd problably just leave it, but its pops so time to man up on this one.

I will ask tho if it doesnt actually require the time estimated to drop the price down some. I used estimaters like theirs in the past and they can be over or under depending on the tech. I know the time on certain warranty repairs are either cakewalk or impossible jokes.

The trailer in question is an old 60's pickup box with a fairly long skinny neck with a tractor pin going through the hitch. Completely cleared the bumper tail lights and what you see in the pics is all it was when i finally came to a stop. didnt phase the trailer at all. (all these new techy vehicles are more expensive with more plastic and thin sheet metal.)

Once hit a deer on my road going 10mph in a nissan frontier 2200$ damage on that one.

The hill was not steep but steep enough to take an unloaded truck and trailer in an uncontrollable slide. floored the brakes when i shoulda floored the gas. thinking back if i'd a tried to keep er straight i'd a totaled the truck lots of trees in the way on the road. the trailer hit the truck and stopped the slide. me and a friend straighented the trailer out he wanted me to back all the way down I just hit the gas and didnt look back.

Its too bad cause there was some beautiful trees i wanted to knockdown right there. Tires are brand new generals at2 grabbers.Even the best tires are worthless on ice.

I'll try to get some pics of the trailer and my wood #### pron.

Thanks again for the help.:rock:
 
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Jeez, for $1700 I think you could buy him a decent flatbed. That way you won't need to worry about denting it next time.
 

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