MS 180 lite mod saw

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yeah i figure that a small bar will cut faster but i wanted the 18 in bar. could of got a 16 in bar but went with a 18. whats wrong with the different sprocket? I just wanted to know if the muffler mod and the mods xskier did would work good and if i took it to the next level by getting the adjustable carb(that will be here on thursday) would work even better. have any of you used the other sprocket that my has? i am not saying ******** but please explain why the factory sprocket on it. when i get this saw modded some more i will make some videos myself. heres the video of the saw i bought


so yeah i appreciate the feedback but it lacking explanation to them.
 
I run plastic homeowner saws with longer bars than is typically recommended on AS, and find they work great. So I have muffler modded 42cc Poulans with 18" lo pro bars that cut quite fast. I have strato RedMax GZ4000 40cc saws that will pull an 18" lo pro bar really well. I don't know what the PILTZ scam is as I have not paid enough attention, but there's no way that an 18" bar is appropriate on a 32cc saw.
 
it works great to me like the video i have the saw now but i just what to do more to it. i will do a video when i have time. why is everyone dogging the piltz people? in the video does the saw seem like it cuts good?
 
this forum is making me the unoffical spokeperson for piltz chainsaws lol, i just want to mod my chainsaw more and looking for people that have done stuff to the ms 180. i just dont want to **** up my saw
 
A little feedback on what my impressions are.
1. the larger dawg is taking at least an inch extra off the bar. So effective cutting area is reduced to max. 17inch. Same situation with all saws wearing large dawgs and long bars.
2. in the videos presented he is cutting what seems to be some sort of pine or spruce, not exactly some type of hardwood.
3. in the first video he is using only approx. 2/3 of the bar during the cut
4. in the second video you can hear, as soon as a little pressure is exerted, that the rpm's fall imediately


What are the consequences of above.
1. If you prefer not bending a lot it is always easier to limb upright. Using the full length bar in any type of hard wood is going to be disappoiting at least. Simply put you cannot change a limbing saw to a felling saw by exchanging the carb, bar and sprocket.
2. Would like to see some hard wood cutting, to see a real perspective of the cutting capabilities
3. You can also put 20 or 22 inch bar onto your saw if you only use half it will always look good
4. All these wonderful videos are only possible with a very sharp chain, the right type of wood and letting the "weight" of the saw dictate the cutting speed. Press harder and the chain will stop. Just that simple and nothing in the world is going to change that fact. You can hear it too in my vid in the first few seconds (14-16).

And if you really paid 300$ for a 180 you sure have too much money to spend! For another ~40$ you could have got a pro type Dolmar 421 sent to your door with a saw case that whips the 180 into oblivion. And yes I have a 180 and 420. Or if you add another bill you could get a pro built echo 590 that will stomp both above into the ground with one step. I like my 180 but it is not and never will be any type of felling saw.

I like the sprocket set up, although on a homeowner saw I believe it to be more of a luxury.

Of course on the other hand if your needs are simply a little garden work and a little storm cleanup then you got a good saw. If you have firewood to cut as a main heat source then you got the wrong saw.

It's allways the perspective you think about.

7
 
Joe, thanks for the pics with part numbers. I may have to try that set up.
 
Great saws!

Thanks! I would've liked to have had my 170 to include, but i left'r go to a friend a few weeks back. I've had 3 come and go, so it shouldnt be long before another comes along. I woke my 170 up pretty good by removing the screen, prying the muff louvers open some, and replacing the stock air filter with material i cut from a "twin air" brand dirt bike filter. Much less restrictive material, and i could put some light filter oil on as well for extra clean air. Having done these few things just put the 170 a tad on the lean side wound tight. I havnt kept one long enough to order a fully adjustable 017 type carb. Curious though, is there a difference in cc's between the 170/180? Haivnt had a 180 yet. Oh, an for ***** an giggles, i bought the Piltz felling dawg for the 170-250. Its on my 250 now just because it looks overkill. Quality made piece though! I'd put it on my nicest saw in a minute if i could get a fit. Well worth the 20 bucks tho, just to converse over when someone notices it on a H/O saw :chainsaw:
 
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