sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
ive never ran one..but i believe that they make the 200 in a rear handle version now as opposed to the top handle version..might want to look into that?? 
Ms 200 Qustion
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rbtree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sure, the 200 has a lot more power than the 192, But, open that 192 muffler way up, and it will cut a whole lot better! My guess, at least 20% faster. Mine has been woods ported, and will keep up with a 200 is small wood, and admirably handle 14 inch wood with its 14 inch bar and normal chain. The picco narrow stuff is for the birds.
The 192 is rated 1.7hp versus 2.2 for the 200. But it isn't that close, stock versus stock, in cut times.
Yeah for the 200T you don't want one if cutting consistently bigger than 6" stuff, especially if you're chopping down trees that size, an 021 or even 023 better with 14" bar if wanting light weight, and even the 021, obselete and old nowadays probably, they trounce an ms200T for outright power
treeclimber jul
ArboristSite Operative
According to the book maybe, but in real life The 200 is very close I think
treeclimber jul
ArboristSite Operative
6" to 14" the 260 or 5100 work well
According to the book maybe, but in real life The 200 is very close I think
Yeah, I haven't seen the book, though I know a 200 kicks out around 1.7kw stock, there's a big difference between 1.5kw and 1.7kw with a small saw, the 021's I've used have torque the 200 doesn't have
Thats my problem ive never ran one either. the rear handle versin would probly work good for meive never ran one..but i believe that they make the 200 in a rear handle version now as opposed to the top handle version..might want to look into that??
because my hand seems a bit big for my192t top handle bar.
if you are cutting on the ground... would not use any top handle saw. there's loads of light rear handle saws around.
that said.. do catch myself using 200T for light limbing. then I'll force myself to put it down. 026 is what I should be using.
MS 180 is well liked by folks looking for a good light saw. MS 200, the rear handled version of 200T is way too pricey.
that said.. do catch myself using 200T for light limbing. then I'll force myself to put it down. 026 is what I should be using.
MS 180 is well liked by folks looking for a good light saw. MS 200, the rear handled version of 200T is way too pricey.
carvinmark
Addicted to ArboristSite
MS200 rear handle saw, BEST small saw I've ever run and I run it hard all the time while carving. Yes, I have run several small saws.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
If light as possible, is your secondary concern with low end grunt the primary concern, I'd recommend 338xpt California Edition. I really dislike the ambiguity of the switch, but this has been a really solid saw for us. I would normally not recommend a top handled saw for ground work, but this saw is more nose heavy than any other top-handled saw I've used. We don't like it for in-tree work, but my whole family loves this saw for limbing and light ground work. It weighs in at 7.7 lbs (powerhead only) with 2.7 horsepower and a 45cc jug verses the 35.2cc jug for the 200, or the 39cc jug of the original 338xpt. I don't believe it matches the revving of the 200(T) but when the 200 won't grunt through something, our 338xptCE will. As the old saying goes, 'there's no replacement for displacement.'
However, I don't know what the availability of this saw is any longer. It just came out last year for 'west coasters.' I bought mine through Norwalk. Bailey's also offered them last year as the 338xpc. As stated before, it's basically the 338 with a larger jug. It is NOT the 338xpt. It will say, 'California Edition' on the saw.
We love our 200T (I've not ran the rear handled version) for climbing and bucket-truck work. Probably the greatest arborist saw ever. I believe it's quite a bit more gutsy than the 192T.
However, for 8" hardwood, AND you want to do it reasonably fast? If you're thinking 260 pro category then this is my personal experience: with a 16" 3/8 bar and fully tanked, it weighed in at 15.0 lbs. The specs for the powerhead only is supposed to be 10.6 lbs. at 3.2hp.
The 346xpNE. Weighs a little more at 11.0/.2 lbs at 3.7 hp. Out revs the 260pro and has more hp and is a rear handled saw as well. I personally like the balance and nimbleness of this saw for ground work better than any saw, except the 338xptCE.
The Dolmar 5100. Everyone knows how much I like this saw. Only time will tell if it meets the dependability standards set by the 260pro, but it weighed in at 15.1 to 15.2 lbs fully tanked with a 18" .325 bar and chain. (Could my scales be off, Troll?) 3.8 to 4.0 hp has been reported, even though company specs out at 3.8. The balance is great (a narrow 3rd place for me) and the power and the revs are second to none. It WILL outcut any formerly mentioned saw, PERIOD. It's like a Sugar Ray Leonard with almost the power of a middleweight.
As you know the 200(T) isn't in the same category of the last three mentioned saws. It's a 35.2cc, 2.1 hp saw. The 260, 346xpNE, and the 5100 is in the 50cc class with the weight being three to three and half pounds heavier for the powerheads only.
That's why for the light weight and nimbleness with good power, I recommended the 338xptCE. ONLY 7.7 lbs with a 45cc motor and 2.7 horsepower. Fully dressed (14" bar), it's about 10 lbs flat. You are looking at anywhere between 4 1/2 to 5 lbs lighter! (FYI: The 200 rear handled, is 8.4 lbs. powerhead only.)
If you go to the 50cc class, no question, the Dolmar 5100 is THE saw. IF, of course, you have dealer support. I'm blessed. My Dolmar dealer is 13 miles away.
So, the question is do you want to hold on to 15 lbs for a shorter period of time? Or do you want to hold on to 10 to 11 1/2 lbs a little longer?
Let's face it, we ALL buy kinda what we want, don't we?
But, I hope this helps.
God Bless.
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THANKS FOR YOUR HELP YASHA we cover a lot of grond in a day so i need the lightest saw with the most grunnt that is not a lot biger than the 192 stihl that 338 california saw sounds promising or the ms 200. I also have a 350 husky how does the 346ne copare to that weight wise. The 350 doesnt seem to bad for what im doing it has a13'' bar.
SawTroll
Information Collector
NE346xp should be about halv a pound heavier than the 350, powerhead only.
Personally, I don't like the rear heavy feeling these saws have with the 13" bar - move up to at least 15".......
SawTroll
Information Collector
:biggrinbounce2: ...don't really know, but it seems inconsistent - the 260/16" should weight a lot more than just .2lbs less than the 5100/18"....
........maybe there are a pound of crud in that 260.......:jawdrop:
Actually, the end result really depends on the exact make and model of bar, as well as saw - there are substantial differences out there.
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rbtree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here's my opinion of the 335 California....(I have had 3, have not had the 338 Cali, but think the 335 is just as good or better.)
I don't like them. Thy have the same carb and port sizes as the smaller normal 335/338 saws. So they are slow to rev up, and lacking in grunt. As well, they require a lot of effort to start, llikely due to the larger displacement with the same starter mechanism. As well, like most of the small Huskys I've had, they require choking within a couple minutes after being shut off---which is quite a pain in the butt.
Stock, they are dogs, quite easily beat by a 200T. (Don't believe the rated specs)With dual ported muffler, they are better, still are slow to rev up, with more torque than a stock 200T, but less chain speed.
Stick with a 338 or 339 rear handled saw....better for on the ground as others have said......or a rear handled 192 wit a modded muffler---darned near as fast as a 200 in small wood, and 55% as much dinero. That said the rear handled MS200 is the best of the lot.
Other good saws that weigh in under 9 pounds are the Shindaiwa 360 or 377, perhaps a Redmax, and a Dolmar..don't know the model numbers, off hand....I think some are rated at 2.5 hp, a bit more than the 170/180 Stihl or 142 Husky.
I don't like them. Thy have the same carb and port sizes as the smaller normal 335/338 saws. So they are slow to rev up, and lacking in grunt. As well, they require a lot of effort to start, llikely due to the larger displacement with the same starter mechanism. As well, like most of the small Huskys I've had, they require choking within a couple minutes after being shut off---which is quite a pain in the butt.
Stock, they are dogs, quite easily beat by a 200T. (Don't believe the rated specs)With dual ported muffler, they are better, still are slow to rev up, with more torque than a stock 200T, but less chain speed.
Stick with a 338 or 339 rear handled saw....better for on the ground as others have said......or a rear handled 192 wit a modded muffler---darned near as fast as a 200 in small wood, and 55% as much dinero. That said the rear handled MS200 is the best of the lot.
Other good saws that weigh in under 9 pounds are the Shindaiwa 360 or 377, perhaps a Redmax, and a Dolmar..don't know the model numbers, off hand....I think some are rated at 2.5 hp, a bit more than the 170/180 Stihl or 142 Husky.
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Troll is right. Powerhead only is 10.6 lbs for the 350, verses 11.2 lbs for the 346 NE. You also get half a horse more in power though.
Points to consider: The 350 is no longer available for 2008. You may want to see if you can still get a 2007 model. It looks as though Husky went to a 450 e-series model instead. Unlike the 346xpNE, neither the 350 nor the 450 is a professional grade saw. They are both what Husky classifies as 'Landowner' saws.
(Unless otherwise specified, all specs are powerhead only)
350 - 10.6 lbs, 52 cc, 3.2 hp (Bailey's reports same stats except 50.2 cc.)
450 - 11.2 lbs, 50.2 cc, 3.2 hp
346NE - 11.2 lbs, 50.1 cc, 3.7 hp -pro-grade saw.(Husky states 11 -11.2 lbs)
(Bailey's states in their 2007 catalog that the 350 only has 13,000 rpms, while the 346NE has 14,500 rpms.)
5100 - 11.2 lbs, 50.7 cc, 3.8 - 4.0 hp. (14,500 rpms too. Troll and others have said this saw is about a half pound heavier than company specs.)
Ms 200 - 8.4 lbs, 35.2 cc, 2.1 hp.
338 xpc - 7.7 lbs, 45 cc, 2.7 hp.
Ms 200t - 7.7 lbs, 35.2 cc, 2.1 hp.
A 200t on the ground is squirrelly to me. If you put a 16" bar on it, it is a little better. You may like it. And it is .7 lbs lighter than the ms 200.
Once again, for ground work, the 338 xp'c' just feels better in our hands. I just weighed it again with 14" bar and chain, filled with bar oil and gas, and it weighs 10.6 lbs. Sorry, I was off about a half a pound, maybe it was cleaner the last time I weighed it.
...don't really know, but it seems inconsistent - the 260/16" should weight a lot more than just .2lbs less than the 5100/18"....
........maybe there are a pound of crud in that 260.......:jawdrop:
That's why I was surprised as well. I thought the difference would have been greater. The 260 pro was topped off in bar oil and gas and then competed against the 5100, then they both were weighed; so the 260 pro wasn't completely full when it was weighed. The 260 pro was bought that week and only had about 12 hours on it. Both saws were 2008 models.
Agreed.
My experience is the 200 is a little quicker and higher revving saw than our 338xp'C.' However, in harder and larger wood, the 200ts will be humming along and then, all of a sudden, the chain just stops. I'll then grab the 338 xpc and it 'pulls through' - more torque and horsepower is my guess. I mean we're talking about almost 10cc more displacement!
As you have not ran a 338 xp'C,' I've not ran a 335xpt, so I can't say which one is definitely better. However, the 338xp'C' has 6 more cc than the 338xpt and I believe almost 10cc more than the 335xpt. (The 335 was @ a 35cc motor, correct?)
I've also read and heard reports by others that it was very hard to start.
Of all the saws I've owned, the 338xpc is the easiest starting saw I have ever had. I just went out to check it again to make sure my posts are accurate. Primed the bulb five times, put the switch to 'choke,' (the switch could be better, but it's not bad once you get used to it. The switch is just not well defined, like all of Huskies top-handled saws.) pulled the starter rope and on the second pull, it burped. Moved the selector switch to 'run' and in two pulls, it's purring like a kitten. It usually takes three to four pulls on a 'cold start,' and it's running. The saw hasn't been started in over 24 hours. Four easy pulls and viola, we're ready to have some fun!
When we're in the tree and the saw is warm, it literally takes about a half pull. I do agree, the 200 I don't have to start with the choke on as quick as my 338xpC, but it's definitely longer than two minutes, probably more like 15-20 minutes once it cools down a little.
I don't know if the old 335 had Smart Start, but the new 338s do.
Here's what Bailey's sales catalog stated last year:
"Our 338XPC "California" boasts a more powerful and rapidly accelerating 45cc engine than traditional 338 saws, making it the most powerful tree saw around. Because it is extremely light and maneuverable, this saw is ideal for tree care professionals. Comes equipped with an easily accessible fuel primer and Smart Start, making it perfect for jobs with frequent starts and stops."
I have found this to be very true, but who knows, Bailey's might be saying that about Solo now.
Naw, I checked, they're not.I try not to, but I have owned two and ran three 200ts. I've only seen one 338xpC, and that's mine, and it's been a solid performer for us so far. Dropped the thing from a tree 20 feet and landed on a big, flat rock. Broke the handle-bar and cracked the case along the bottom, it still purrs. (BTW, I replaced the handle.)
The 338xpC revs at 13,800 rpm. verses the 200 at 14,000 rpm.
The 338xpC is much different than a 338xpt, even though they look almost identical. I mean 6 more cc s on such a little saw is quite a bit! And there is no telling how different a 338xpC is from a 335xpt that was discontinued in 2004.
Once again, in the tree, the 200t is probably the best saw ever. We really like it. For ground work, and for what 385xp is looking to do, I would pick the 338xpC (if you can even get one anymore) or the Dolmar 5100 or 346xp in the 50cc, 11.2 lb class saw. If dependability is your main focus, it's hard to argue against a 260 pro.
However, 385xp, if you're holding it all day, the Huskies Anti-vibe is far superior, making the fatigue factor decline.
This is just my opinion with my limited knowledge, take it for what you paid for it...
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