SawTroll
Information Collector
Carb problems are common on small saws, as I understand it.
MS 200T disscussion on what breaks the most and service tips.
- Thread starter lone wolf
- Start date
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Carb problems are common on small saws, as I understand it.
I think those carbs are made in China
How you been Saw Troll?.
SawTroll
Information Collector
They often are, but that doesn't seem to be the problem. :msp_unsure:
parrisw
Tree Freak
Yup, you can use most anything that fits. That looks like nice stuff. Problem is sometimes the cord breaks and someone ties it again, and repeat that 5 times and you have a very short cord, seen it many times.
Zombiechopper
Addicted to ArboristSite
the problem I've seen is packed up with pitch and crap and getting hot. That's a lack of maintenance though. I've got two that were run hot as hell and lived through it though. Also coked up mufflers. I want to try opening up some of the internal bracing parts in there that limit flow so bad to the screen hole. That gas has a rough path to get out
The original is 3mm thick.
They should be taken down and cleaned weekly to get all the sawdust and oil out especially by the coil.
On a 200t I had, the metal piece the air filter cover clips onto, broke off and got sucked in.
Was the cylinder able to be used after that?
AV mounts and carbs mostly.
I agree I keep them in stock.I used to see a lot of mufflers crack and fall apart but not lately.Keep the muffler tight.
blackoak
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oil flippy cap
I don't know if this is common or not, but I have had to replace a couple of the oil port flippy caps, no problem with the fuel caps. The oil caps just would not lock down.
I don't know if this is common or not, but I have had to replace a couple of the oil port flippy caps, no problem with the fuel caps. The oil caps just would not lock down.
I guess I overlooked that I hate the stupid things but I like the way
stihls are built except the caps.They always leak and break sooner or later.The damn oil cap leaks into the inside of pullstart cover and cruds up the flywheel and coil area, I clean them once a week.Maybe its just me but i think the saw starts better with a clean coil.
Stihl n Wood
ArboristSite Operative
From what I've been seeing is mostly Carb issues. Soon after mine broke in it would start up and wouldn't idle. I brought it back under warranty and they put a new Carb on. I was going to fix it myself but wasn't gonna void the warranty. But I just started a new job climbing for a company and they run 200t's there's one just sitting there and starts but just dies out when you try to throttle up. I know its most likely the accelerator pump. I tried to tune it seeing if it was outta wack maybe and it ran good for a little bit and then same dam thing. I'm going to take the carb off and take it home tomorrow night and fix it by JB. Weld. And see if it works out. I'm not gonna bring mine to work there. They have some 338s and 192t's as well but those things are GUT LESS.....
First check the impulse line for vac leak.
Stihl n Wood
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah for sure. I always check line's first for leaks or pinches. Eliminate the small things. I have a few rebuild kits here at home so its going to get rebuilt using news gaskets too. But other wise 200ts are the cat as$... I love them over huskys. I had a 338xpt and there just nose heavy and not balanced well. Plus the stihls are just unstoppable in most cases.
They run forever if you take care of them.
Just had fuel line develop a pinhole leak .The saw was an older one.Replaced it in about 10 minutes running good now.
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
i think most of the issues have been covered here...
Starter definitely, sometimes the cord, sometimes the pawls, sometimes the pulley. lots of guys do crank them full blast before the palls even engage. Good operators ease the start handle out until the pawls engage, then kind of do a sideways or normal drop start. both methods take the same amount of time/effort, but one sure reduces a lot of strain on the starter!
I've seen a lot of snapped off kill switch wires.
AV mounts again, and clutch springs. The clutch side cover in general seems to take quite a beating, the little plastic bits covering the muffler, then the cover doesnt seem to quite fit on like it used to and the chain brake doesnt fit in the same. They might be made of different plastic, the chain brake cover always seems to discolor faster and get brittle faster. I think this part of the saw could be better designed, this is way way behind the metal covers on bigger stihls.
Surprised nobody mentioned flippy caps, but I never have a problem with mine.
Starter definitely, sometimes the cord, sometimes the pawls, sometimes the pulley. lots of guys do crank them full blast before the palls even engage. Good operators ease the start handle out until the pawls engage, then kind of do a sideways or normal drop start. both methods take the same amount of time/effort, but one sure reduces a lot of strain on the starter!
I've seen a lot of snapped off kill switch wires.
AV mounts again, and clutch springs. The clutch side cover in general seems to take quite a beating, the little plastic bits covering the muffler, then the cover doesnt seem to quite fit on like it used to and the chain brake doesnt fit in the same. They might be made of different plastic, the chain brake cover always seems to discolor faster and get brittle faster. I think this part of the saw could be better designed, this is way way behind the metal covers on bigger stihls.
Surprised nobody mentioned flippy caps, but I never have a problem with mine.
With out a doubt flippys are the weakest link
i just took it for granted that all flippys suck thats why did not get into it.What would be nice if you can get the old screw cap oil and gas tanks and convert.
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