MS-290 rebuild

[a. palmer jr.]

I have used Permatex MotoSeal on a few dozen rebuilds now, both with and without gaskets, and have had no leaking issues to this point. A friend who is a 2-stroke motorcycle nut gave me a partial tube when I did my first rebuild and I used it on his recommendation. It took several saws to use it up, and I am probably a little heavy handed on application. I think the last tube I bought came from Auto Zone, but I would imagine any auto parts store that carries Permatex products would have it. Its not very expensive and you do not use very much per saw.
I, and many others here have rebuilt several MS 290 frame size saws, if you need help / tools, ask.

Finally took the time to get the saw tore down tonight, must be the mildest straight gassing of all time. I got the rings out intact and there is only minimal transfer on the cylinder. think my cousin must be using 2/c oil from Borneo or something, piston head is crapola but cylinder head looks like it just came out of the box. Think I am gonna work on rings/piston with some 1200 grit, clean it up and see if I can reassemble it. Stay tuned! (These saws are a PITA to get apart and I probably did it wrong!)[/QUOTE]

I'm using up my tube of Dirko then I'll probably use Motoseal from now on...

 

[windthrown]

I don't think you're supposed to hit the fins. Poulan uses this method in their service manuals on some of their saws, I tried it and now use it on many different saws. You really don't have to hit it hard, a few light taps is enough on many of them..

Too late! I broke that fin off 7 years ago... Super glue fixed it though. Still running!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I was gonna suggest JB Weld, it'll fix anything!

 

[HarleyT]

Why not hit the muffler instead?

 

[Woody912]

I was gonna suggest JB Weld, it'll fix anything!

won't glue a muffler together, at least not on the first try. It will hold and seal a tractor block

 

[a. palmer jr.]

You have to hit the muffler pretty hard for the flywheel to come loose I would suppose..

 

[windthrown]

Why not hit the muffler instead?

Only if you aim for the muffler bearings.

 

[windthrown]

I was gonna suggest JB Weld, it'll fix anything!

I swear by JB weld, but it sets up too slowly to get the fins set at the right angle. Super Glue works in a jiffy. Glue, press, hold, done. Instant working saw for the old lady.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If she's using it just leave the fin off...

 

[Woody912]

[QUOTE=" Any recommendations for flange sealant that would be available locally? Fastenal killed me on shipping last time

I have used Permatex MotoSeal on a few dozen rebuilds now, both with and without gaskets, and have had no leaking issues to this point. A friend who is a 2-stroke motorcycle nut gave me a partial tube when I did my first rebuild and I used it on his recommendation. It took several saws to use it up, and I am probably a little heavy handed on application. I think the last tube I bought came from Auto Zone, but I would imagine any auto parts store that carries Permatex products would have it. Its not very expensive and you do not use very much per saw.
I, and many others here have rebuilt several MS 290 frame size saws, if you need help / tools, ask.[/QUOTE]

Is there some super secret method to reconnecting the intake boot, inserting the fuel line, connecting the pulse line and keeping the ignition module wires out of the way simultaneously? I think I need about 3 more hands with fingers 8" long and 1/2" diameter! lol gave up on it last night, pretty frustrated. I did manage to reconnect the chain brake spring without losing an eye

 

[Johnnysef]

Is there some super secret method to reconnecting the intake boot, inserting the fuel line, connecting the pulse line and keeping the ignition module wires out of the way simultaneously? I think I need about 3 more hands with fingers 8" long and 1/2" diameter! lol gave up on it last night, pretty frustrated. I did manage to reconnect the chain brake spring without losing an eye[/QUOTE]

Before I do anything with the handle, I like to insert the fuel line into the tank, the pulse line on the cylinder, the boot and clamp, and the inner air shroud onto the saw. I will also install the tank vents on the 029 here as well. When I reinstall the handle I will work from longest component to shortest. The longest being the wires and I will insert them through the grommet and handle first, then making sure the fuel line is pointed through the hole in the handle, pull the pulse line through. I find a little oil helps the pulse line slide a little easier as you pull it through. Now the last part is where finger space gets tight, so I will fold the end of the boot in on itself, to reduce its diameter, and get it started pushing through its hole. Once I get about half of it pushed through, and it will not fall backwards I remove my fingers and carefully pull / unfold the boot with a pair of needle nose pliers. All that is left is to make sure everything is seated properly and to take up the slack in the wires so they can be connected at the switch.

Slowly and carefully are key here and don't force anything.
Hope this helps some

 

[Woody912]

Is there some super secret method to reconnecting the intake boot, inserting the fuel line, connecting the pulse line and keeping the ignition module wires out of the way simultaneously? I think I need about 3 more hands with fingers 8" long and 1/2" diameter! lol gave up on it last night, pretty frustrated. I did manage to reconnect the chain brake spring without losing an eye

Before I do anything with the handle, I like to insert the fuel line into the tank, the pulse line on the cylinder, the boot and clamp, and the inner air shroud onto the saw. I will also install the tank vents on the 029 here as well. When I reinstall the handle I will work from longest component to shortest. The longest being the wires and I will insert them through the grommet and handle first, then making sure the fuel line is pointed through the hole in the handle, pull the pulse line through. I find a little oil helps the pulse line slide a little easier as you pull it through. Now the last part is where finger space gets tight, so I will fold the end of the boot in on itself, to reduce its diameter, and get it started pushing through its hole. Once I get about half of it pushed through, and it will not fall backwards I remove my fingers and carefully pull / unfold the boot with a pair of needle nose pliers. All that is left is to make sure everything is seated properly and to take up the slack in the wires so they can be connected at the switch.

Slowly and carefully are key here and don't force anything.
Hope this helps some[/QUOTE]

Have not messed with the handle at all, just cannot seem to get the boot thru that plastic "wall" and then get it pushed onto the intake, just need more patience I guess. What is that bulb thing on end of tank vent, some sort of pressure regulator?

 

[HarleyT]

Are you talking about this style vent?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Just thought I'd mention it, the last piston/cylinder kit I installed on a 390 I didn't have to compress the rings at all, just push it in. I've never been able to do that on prior 390 installs, maybe they changed the design of the cylinder. One word of caution: Be sure the ring gap is centered on the locating pin before you push..

 

[HarleyT]

Just thought I'd mention it, the last piston/cylinder kit I installed on a 390 I didn't have to compress the rings at all, just push it in. I've never been able to do that on prior 390 installs, maybe they changed the design of the cylinder. One word of caution: Be sure the ring gap is centered on the locating pin before you push..

Sounds like you may have learned that one the hard way.....

 

[Woody912]

Are you talking about this style vent?

View attachment 556842

assuming the hose is attached to a barb on the back side of that button deal, yes/

 

[Woody912]

Just thought I'd mention it, the last piston/cylinder kit I installed on a 390 I didn't have to compress the rings at all, just push it in. I've never been able to do that on prior 390 installs, maybe they changed the design of the cylinder. One word of caution: Be sure the ring gap is centered on the locating pin before you push..

because the depth of the jug I was not able to use my ring compressor, used a pocket knife to work it in around the perimeter. Little built of a bevel there so that was the easy part so far! Hopefully the rings stayed where I put them!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Sounds like you may have learned that one the hard way.....

Nope, just warning others of the possibility..I have broken rings in the past, usually the lower one, but this time it went well..

 

[Stihl_Boss 83]

What's up fellas? I finally did my first rebuild and I need a little help tuning a 029 carb to run a farmtec 390 p/c kit. It got the saw back together no problem but it took forever to get it to "pop" on full choke. Then on half it will only "pop" every couple pulls. I now I did t tune the carb yet because i don't want it to be too lean and toast it before putting it to work. Also I think the timing may be off because the best advise I got was to use a business card to space the mag. Open to any and all advise. Thank you in advance!!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

You might check the flywheel "key", those are kinda prone to wearing slick. As long as the module isn't too far away or touching the flywheel it's probably okay...I'm one of those rare individuals that actually use a gap gauge for this, around .011-.012 is usually good enough..You might check to see if you have a strong spark also..