MS-290 rebuild

[HarleyT]

Disassembly can be done by leaving the pan with the crankcase, but I don't recommend it.

To remove the pan, the rear bar stud needs removed...

 

[HarleyT]

I have broken fins on flywheels that way on 1123 saws. Pullers are easier.

I don't know where he whacks it at.

 

[windthrown]

So not really the best AV then, but better engine vibes?

Yep. Seems that the 290 and 390 engines are more inherently unbalanced. The 310 is a lot smoother.

 

[HarleyT]

 

[windthrown]

I don't know where he whacks it at.

I have tried the tapping method. I broke a flywheel fin on the Saw From Hell that I left with my ex in Southern Oregon. I re-attached it with super glue, and it held! As far as I know that saw is still working. Anyway, I bought a cheap-o puller that I use now. No more broken fins. Or Sweeds.

 

[HarleyT]

I just use a socket on the flanged nut...

 

[windthrown]

You also have to be careful not to sheer the flywheel keys on these. They are pretty soft.

 

[Woody912]

The 029, 029 Super and MS290 here came with 3/8 std sprockets as well. I have never seen a stock 1127 saw with .325 in the PNW. None of mine had anything other than the 3/8 spur drive and 3/8 std B&C (I have had over a dozen of them). I swap them out with the 036 rim drive brake/clutch drums. The smaller pre-360 rim drive hub works fine and can be swapped in if one of the OP's 036 is upgraded with the later larger 360 clutch drum kit. The later 360 clutch drum is recommended on the 036 to keep them from grenading. The 036 rim drive is a good pro feature that you can swap into these saws to replace the spur sprockets.

I do need to upgrade bearing and drive on one of my saws. Thanks for the reminder!

 

[fearofpavement]

I remove the flywheels by loosening the nut, screwing it back on most of the way but leaving 1/8" if space between it and the flywheel. Then I put a 1/2" deep well socket on the nut (it's actually 13mm but the 1/2 fits tighter), pick up the saw about an inch off the bench by holding a flywheel fin firmly with a duck bill pliers and give the socket a firm rap with a 12oz brass hammer. One rap does it every time. Screw the nut off,

 

[HarleyT]

I remove the flywheels by loosening the nut, screwing it back on most of the way but leaving 1/8" if space between it and the flywheel. Then I put a 1/2" deep well socket on the nut (it's actually 13mm but the 1/2 fits tighter), pick up the saw about an inch off the bench by holding a flywheel fin firmly with a duck bill pliers and give the socket a firm rap with a 12oz brass hammer. One rap does it every time. Screw the nut off,

Pretty much the same here, but I just hold the flywheel in my hand.

 

[tug]

Here is a good video on repairing this series of saw.

Also many others if you search on youtube.

 

[Woody912]

Here is a good video on repairing this series of saw.

Also many others if you search on youtube.

Excellent vid, much better than the ones I found. Probably would have spent 2 weeks trying to get cylinder off "thru the roof" Any recommendations for flange sealant that would be available locally? Fastenal killed me on shipping last time

 

[windthrown]

I do need to upgrade bearing and drive on one of my saws. Thanks for the reminder!

And you can just pop the original 036 clutch drum/rim drive on that 290 and give it a nice upgrade.

 

[tug]

[QUOTE=" Any recommendations for flange sealant that would be available locally? Fastenal killed me on shipping last time[/QUOTE]
Not sure what you have near you hondabond, yamahabond can usually be had at said dealers. Permatex and loctite have their own versions of an anaerobic gasket maker (518).Also 1194 and 1184 are popular but usually have to be purchased online. Stihl uses dirko. Permatex has a hylomar product and a couple non hardening flexible gasket makers. Almost all can be found on ebay, amazon, or online $10 to 15 shipped.
Most auto parts stores have either permatex or loctite. Maybe the most common would be permatex grey not a first choice on saws but used on just about everything else. If its non hardening, flexible and gasoline and oil resistant and somewhat heat resistant it would work. I use mostly hondabond and 518

 

[Woody912]

[QUOTE=" Any recommendations for flange sealant that would be available locally? Fastenal killed me on shipping last time

Not sure what you have near you hondabond, yamahabond can usually be had at said dealers. Permatex and loctite have their own versions of an anaerobic gasket maker (518).Also 1194 and 1184 are popular but usually have to be purchased online. Stihl uses dirko. Permatex has a hylomar product and a couple non hardening flexible gasket makers. Almost all can be found on ebay, amazon, or online $10 to 15 shipped.
Most auto parts stores have either permatex or loctite. Maybe the most common would be permatex grey not a first choice on saws but used on just about everything else. If its non hardening, flexible and gasoline and oil resistant and somewhat heat resistant it would work. I use mostly hondabond and 518[/QUOTE]

last time I checked Autozone, CARQUEST, Napa, and did not find anything that met all the checkmarks; ordered from Fastenal and had to pay shipping to their store! tripled the actual price. Hoping I still have part of that tube left!

 

[Khntr85]

If you plan on doing more saws grab some dirko, I have done over 12 with my current tubeand still plenty left..... I got mine from @Definitive Dave

 

[Johnnysef]

[QUOTE=" Any recommendations for flange sealant that would be available locally? Fastenal killed me on shipping last time[/QUOTE]

I have used Permatex MotoSeal on a few dozen rebuilds now, both with and without gaskets, and have had no leaking issues to this point. A friend who is a 2-stroke motorcycle nut gave me a partial tube when I did my first rebuild and I used it on his recommendation. It took several saws to use it up, and I am probably a little heavy handed on application. I think the last tube I bought came from Auto Zone, but I would imagine any auto parts store that carries Permatex products would have it. Its not very expensive and you do not use very much per saw.
I, and many others here have rebuilt several MS 290 frame size saws, if you need help / tools, ask.

 

[Woody912]

[QUOTE=" Any recommendations for flange sealant that would be available locally? Fastenal killed me on shipping last time

I have used Permatex MotoSeal on a few dozen rebuilds now, both with and without gaskets, and have had no leaking issues to this point. A friend who is a 2-stroke motorcycle nut gave me a partial tube when I did my first rebuild and I used it on his recommendation. It took several saws to use it up, and I am probably a little heavy handed on application. I think the last tube I bought came from Auto Zone, but I would imagine any auto parts store that carries Permatex products would have it. Its not very expensive and you do not use very much per saw.
I, and many others here have rebuilt several MS 290 frame size saws, if you need help / tools, ask.[/QUOTE]

Finally took the time to get the saw tore down tonight, must be the mildest straight gassing of all time. I got the rings out intact and there is only minimal transfer on the cylinder. think my cousin must be using 2/c oil from Borneo or something, piston head is crapola but cylinder head looks like it just came out of the box. Think I am gonna work on rings/piston with some 1200 grit, clean it up and see if I can reassemble it. Stay tuned! (These saws are a PITA to get apart and I probably did it wrong!)

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hitting the flywheel?

Where? With what?

A hammer of course! But not a sledge hammer...

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I have broken fins on flywheels that way on 1123 saws. Pullers are easier.

I don't think you're supposed to hit the fins. Poulan uses this method in their service manuals on some of their saws, I tried it and now use it on many different saws. You really don't have to hit it hard, a few light taps is enough on many of them..