Ms 361 max bar length?

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59cc don't know what the decimal is after it
73daaadb2160c61f0f0d6464fc64f196.png
 
There must be more to the story as why spend the bucks for a short lived venture if it can be accomplished with what you have and in about the same time? H'mm a sub-variation of cad maybe? Like to tinker with the old saw? New long bar creates an excuse to upgrade to a saw designed for it? :innocent: Or maybe it is really all about the table tops. If they are worth the cost of a bar and your intended upgrade then go for it. Either way I would cut it, they would still be wedge shaped.


Ron

I think it is a sub varation on cad... Something like bar syndrome...
It is a project saw for me. It's one of those Huztl kits all the cool (or dumb) kids have been building lately. I have already tinkered with it a bit and this gives me an excuse to do more work to it. The longer bar is in fact an eventual upgrade to the 660 kit they sell. If I didn't plan to upgrade eventually I would just use the 20 I got on it now. I want to get into more milling and upgrade my capabilities so it would be money well spent.
For me it's less about the table tops and more about the experience to see if it can be done, and if so, how. The table tops is just a justification for the project. If it all goes well, I will make enough to cover the bar and chain as well as a new 660 kit. If the saw doesn't like it, well I learned something and I will rebuild it to be even better. All part of the learning experience.
 
I don't think a stock 361 will like it at all. Considering the Chinese 660 is under $300 shipped you may as well just hold out and make the table cutting a lot more fun.
It's not stock anymore. The cylinder has been cleaned up/light port as well as muffler modded. I don't doubt you that a stock 361 would not like it, but it's not stock. I've already run it really pretty hard milling and it stays really cool all things considered.
 
It's a huztl aftermarket one anyways right? The cylinder kit is $16 if you burn it up. Guess it wouldn't be the worst thing ever but still inconvenient.
 
It's a huztl aftermarket one anyways right? The cylinder kit is $16 if you burn it up. Guess it wouldn't be the worst thing ever but still inconvenient.
Yep, nearly 100% Huztl. If the cylinder burns up yeah it's a setback, but not the worst. Gives me an excuse to get the big bore kit, and toss a 660 kit in the cart to finish the job up.
 
If you have the power , and the HO oiler, you still have the issue of the bar being too heavy for the AV springs. This can pull on the intake boot and causing an air leak, which was one of the 361's weak points. A 20" or 24" bar will get the job done and it won't be as hard on your saw.
 
If you have the power , and the HO oiler, you still have the issue of the bar being too heavy for the AV springs. This can pull on the intake boot and causing an air leak, which was one of the 361's weak points. A 20" or 24" bar will get the job done and it won't be as hard on your saw.
Wouldn't one of those newer lightweight bars solve that problem?
 
If you buy a stihl light bar 32 or 36" let me know when you're ready to sell it used [emoji51]
Haha, you wish! This little experiment is going to turn out so well it will be the new rage for all the people who are capped out with 60cc saws.

Well, at the very worst I would have to get another saw, because when left unattended for more than a month, those bars usually get caught sleeping on someone else's saw.[emoji23]
 
Wouldn't one of those newer lightweight bars solve that problem?

Yes and no. The weight of it vs a smaller bar well be closer, however the weight of the bar will still be farther away from the center mass of saw, so it will still be very tip heavy. Ive ran a 28" reduced weight bar, on a really strong ported 361 with HO oiler, and that was definitely all the saw wanted. The AV springs took a beating and one of the buffers had to eventually be replaced. Can you run a 32" bar on a 361? you bet, but it's hard on the saw.
 
Haha, you wish! This little experiment is going to turn out so well it will be the new rage for all the people who are capped out with 60cc saws.

Well, at the very worst I would have to get another saw, because when left unattended for more than a month, those bars usually get caught sleeping on someone else's saw.[emoji23]

I won't put anything over 24" on my 361. That may just be me but I won't do it. But I have others that I've acquired over time that'll pull the larger bars.

They can always come stay at my saw day spa here in Texas :)
 
Just use skip chain and make the cut. Piss rev it a bunch before to get the bar good and soaked. You may wanna apply extra oil right to the rail before each cut.

Hell, I strap a 36 to some of the saws I build just to load the saw and seat the rings. Not sure what the big deal is here.

Painfully slow, but you're making due with what you got for a few cuts.

 
Isn't it a 60cc saw?



I had been told by the local shop that idling a saw actually built up more heat than running it.




I think if I was attempting this, I would make the kerf/cut as close to a (yah I had to Google this) Isosceles Trapezoid,View attachment 581401 as possible. So I was doing everything I could to minimize the surface area the saw is trying to cut at any given moment.

I think your local shop would have to prove that to me. At the very minimum idling the saw would give the chain a chance to oil up and the bar to cool off a little.
 
Well, perhaps it is time to resurrect this thread. I never did get to try this out last fall as I was having problems with that saw and then I went off to school. Got it all figured out now with the no run problem and since that I have some time, big wood, and a 36'' bar I might very well give it a go later this week. I'm still very curious as to how well it will perform.
 
Where at in Minnesota? I've got a 661 that wouldn't mind seeing something worthy of it's time.
 

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