MS200T clutch side crank seal question

[MattG]

Did you find all 6 screws in the case the hidden on under the rubber plug?

Have just had a quick look and have found 6 screws, including one hidden under the chain tensioner - can't see anything hidden under a rubber plug, unless you mean the rubber connector for the oil pump (which I've not dislodged yet)?

 

[lone wolf]

Have just had a quick look and have found 6 screws, including one hidden under the chain tensioner - can't see anything hidden under a rubber plug, unless you mean the rubber connector for the oil pump (which I've not dislodged yet)?

Yes the connecter to the oil pump. Hey your going to like this the cases come right apart with a few taps from a soft hammer there is no interference fit in the crank bearings its easy.

 

[MattG]

Yes the connecter to the oil pump. Hey your going to like, this the cases come right apart with a few taps from a soft hammer there is no interference fit in the crank bearings its easy.

Thanks mate, have looked at drawings in IPL and can see locations of all the screws through the gasket so I'll be sure to get them all out.

So where would be the best place to tap with the hammer - on the crank ends (safely protected with a nut threaded on) or do you just have to knock on the cases a little bit?

Anyway, I've got to get off to bed now as have an early start tomorrow so will check in again in the morning.

Thanks again,

Matt

 

[MattG]

Well, I've got the whole thing stripped down, now. And yes, a few taps split the cases open. The crank seems good, but the piston is scratched a bit, deep enough to catch your nails in.

Another thing that alarmed me was that stihl painted the inside of the oil compartment and lots of the paint is loosed/flaked up here. I just rubbed off the worst and rinsed out the flakes.

Since the screws for cylinder are pretty small and as I don't really want to strip anything, I've ordered a mini torque wrench (2 - 24Nm) for the reassemble. Not sure if you guys see this as overkill....

The old gasket seems to have come away from the surfaces very easily - there is no old gasket left on them. So is it worth cleaning these faces much? Perhaps with solvent/thinners and maybe some very fine abrasive paper? What would you guys do?

 

[gomoto69]

I always clean gasket surfaces very well, including as you mentioned solvent with some emery cloth. Using a torque wrench is a good idea, just be sure threads are clean

 

[lone wolf]

Well, I've got the whole thing stripped down, now. And yes, a few taps split the cases open. The crank seems good, but the piston is scratched a bit, deep enough to catch your nails in.

Another thing that alarmed me was that stihl painted the inside of the oil compartment and lots of the paint is loosed/flaked up here. I just rubbed off the worst and rinsed out the flakes.

Since the screws for cylinder are pretty small and as I don't really want to strip anything, I've ordered a mini torque wrench (2 - 24Nm) for the reassemble. Not sure if you guys see this as overkill....

The old gasket seems to have come away from the surfaces very easily - there is no old gasket left on them. So is it worth cleaning these faces much? Perhaps with solvent/thinners and maybe some very fine abrasive paper? What would you guys do?

Dont scratch the surfaces up just go easy. I would just use hot water or gasket remover to loosen it and scrape with a razor .

 

[lone wolf]

Well, I've got the whole thing stripped down, now. And yes, a few taps split the cases open. The crank seems good, but the piston is scratched a bit, deep enough to catch your nails in.

Another thing that alarmed me was that stihl painted the inside of the oil compartment and lots of the paint is loosed/flaked up here. I just rubbed off the worst and rinsed out the flakes.

Since the screws for cylinder are pretty small and as I don't really want to strip anything, I've ordered a mini torque wrench (2 - 24Nm) for the reassemble. Not sure if you guys see this as overkill....

The old gasket seems to have come away from the surfaces very easily - there is no old gasket left on them. So is it worth cleaning these faces much? Perhaps with solvent/thinners and maybe some very fine abrasive paper? What would you guys do?

A tee wrench is what most people including myself use on the screws .

 

[MattG]

Yeah, thanks for the tips, fellas. Certainly take it easy with a very gentle clean on case, and on the threads.

I must say I was glad to get the seals out with cases split. Even then it was tricky balancing them (got the wife to hold them steady on wood blocks), then careful taps with screwdriver and a small drift. Getting these things out with cases still together, WITHOUT the special stihl pulling tool, must be a real nightmare....

 

[lone wolf]

Yeah, thanks for the tips, fellas. Certainly take it easy with a very gentle clean on case, and on the threads.

I must say I was glad to get the seals out with cases split. Even then it was tricky balancing them (got the wife to hold them steady on wood blocks), then careful taps with screwdriver and a small drift. Getting these things out with cases still together, WITHOUT the special stihl pulling tool, must be a real nightmare....

You are right about the seals. Now when you put them back go real easy so you dont bend them up. They go in after the crank is in. Take the flywheel key out first so it dont cut the seal.

 

[MattG]

You are right about the seals. Now when you put them back go real easy so you dont bend them up. They go in after the crank is in. Take the flywheel key out first so it dont cut the seal.

I was wondering about whether to put them in before or after the shaft. I did think that perhaps if you have the shaft in first, then I guess it must help guide them a bit squarer in. I think your post kinda confirms that this is the best way.

I'm afraid I don't have the stihl tools for a seals, so I'm just going to have spend sometime with long reach sockets, etc.

 

[MattG]

Another question! Do you guys grease the outside of seals or use sealant like manual says?

I have a tube of blue siliconey type of stuff. It's called "gasket maker". I use it on my car work to stop threads from leaking or to improve an old gasket face if I don't want to buy a new one. Do you think this will work?

 

[blsnelling]

It's quite unlikely that you need to split the case. Bad carbs are a known problems and very common point of failure on the 200T.

 

[lone wolf]

Another question! Do you guys grease the outside of seals or use sealant like manual says?

I have a tube of blue siliconey type of stuff. It's called "gasket maker". I use it on my car work to stop threads from leaking or to improve an old gasket face if I don't want to buy a new one. Do you think this will work?

Use grease on the inner and sealer on the outer.

 

[MattG]

It's quite unlikely that you need to split the case. Bad carbs are a known problems and very common point of failure on the 200T.

Well, the main reason why I split the case was to make changing the oil seals easier. I had a bit of "circumstantial evidence" that they might need changing. Also after a week of storage I'd see a tiny bit of chain appear under the saw which I assumed wasn't due to just waste sawings sweating out, but maybe from a very slight case leak. (I've not found any obvious holes/cracks since I stripped the thing).

And besides I was interested in stripping the whole thing down, as a kind of saw-mechanics-lesson! And hopefully the result will be a decent saw too! I accept that were I trying to "run a business" I'd being trying to apply a more scientific approach (pressure/vac tests etc.).

FWIW I'm going to clean/check the carb once I've finished the main engine.

thanks
Matt

 

[blsnelling]

There's no need at all to split the case in order to replace the crank seals.

 

[lone wolf]

There's no need at all to split the case in order to replace the crank seals.

But he is having fun see

 

[pantelis]

Well you really should rip it down and do it right , otherwise you will waste more time and money throwing the wrong parts in it. We can help I know them well, start stripping it and buy a Mitivac 8500 it does vac and pressure.

No the mityvac 8500 its no good............. better buy this , you have all in one with the very reasonably atractive price of 400 euros + shipping

 

[pantelis]

Hey Big T,
How much was that "socket" er press tool specifically for 200t's ?

Τake a piece of metal tube , make otside threads, and make a nut to fit to this tube , before you pull out the seal put the tube to the old seal and screw the nut until touch the saw body.
put the new seal and hit the tube until the nut touch the sawbody .
works with all chainsaws , trimers , and everything else.
put double nut for more secure

 

[lone wolf]

No the mityvac 8500 its no good............. better buy this , you have all in one with the very reasonably atractive price of 400 euros + shipping

Τake a piece of metal tube , make otside threads, and make a nut to fit to this tube , before you pull out the seal put the tube to the old seal and screw the nut until touch the saw body.
put the new seal and hit the tube until the nut touch the sawbody .
works with all chainsaws , trimers , and everything else.
put double nut for more secure

You made one, do you have a pic?

 

[big t double]

No the mityvac 8500 its no good............. better buy this , you have all in one with the very reasonably atractive price of 400 euros + shipping

These are nice kits...I just sold a guy one this week.