Rebuilt new p&c pressure tested, rebuilt carbs new fuel line and intake snout, seals. Runs for a while then quits idling. When you jostle it around any at all it wants to die or does die.
From where?
These are known for fuel puddling in the intake if the carb is not set right. Some carbs are worse than others. What carb do you have? Nose down to release the chain brake will usually kill it.Rebuilt new p&c pressure tested, rebuilt carbs new fuel line and intake snout, seals. Runs for a while then quits idling. When you jostle it around any at all it wants to die or does die.
It’s the walbro don’t know which one. How would I set the carb on this? I looked at the default off the manual and that wasn’t it.These are known for fuel puddling in the intake if the carb is not set right. Some carbs are worse than others. What carb do you have? Nose down to release the chain brake will usually kill it. Fiddling with the carb didn’t fix the issue. It’s crazy because high speed it seems like it’s doing fine, I cut with it some today just idles like complete garbage
I sent an 026 back to Stihl because of this because the dealer couldn't fix it. Bought a new 260 which had the same problem. Finally called Stihl tech support in VA beach and the dealer swapped the carb out to the older model carb which fixed the issue.
They were ALL Walbro's... The model is etched in the side of the carb.It’s the walbro don’t know which one.
See above...How would I set the carb on this?
I hadn’t thought about that but you’re right. I’ll try putting my little flasher online to see if it’s jumping spark when an issue occurs.Sounds like it coud be an electrical problem. You have dealt with just about everything else. Check all wire connections and the ignition module.
I've had only a few issues with an ignition module. One was an MS 661 M-tronic that was almost new. Stihl had trouble with their early releases. The second was a Husqvarna 61 that was old and the larger IM failed. All other electrical problems I've encountered have been failed switches and loose connections. The design of the Stihl MS 261 is not good and designed to get loose and wear out where the metal rod (11) meets the plastic lever (7). It wears too easily and the rod will eventually slip out of the notch on its own with enough vibration:I hadn’t thought about that but you’re right. I’ll try putting my little flasher online to see if it’s jumping spark when an issue occurs.
You must be talking about the newer ones. It seems the older ones are fairly simple to work on..Sometimes I think that stihl is a cruel joke by the Germans. Make equipment that’s ultra reliable and powerful, but oh by the way make it complicated to next to impossible to work on, so if it does break down you better know what you’re doing.
I'm one of the thousands of guys, who know what they are doing....whats your point?Sometimes I think that stihl is a cruel joke by the Germans. Make equipment that’s ultra reliable and powerful, but oh by the way make it complicated to next to impossible to work on, so if it does break down you better know what you’re doing.
I tried that if it’s the case shouldn’t it run okay with the gas cap off, when it starts to bog down?Check the fuel tank vent to make sure it isn't blocked.
Can you post a video of the saw's bad behavior?I tried that if it’s the case shouldn’t it run okay with the gas cap off, when it starts to bog down?
Yeah I think I might, if anything it would make me feel betterCan you post a video of the saw's bad behavior?
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