Ms310 cylinder bolt removal

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Tyrel

MAN OF STIHL
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I acquired a ms310 that has a scorn piston. It's not real bad yet and still runs good. I thought I would be proactive and try to save cylinder before it gets real bad. I can't get two of the cylinder bolts to break free. Broke two bits and twisted one already. Thought I would get suggestions before I strip heads out. Thanks:)
 
a lot of times i have to use a 3/8 impact to break them loose because they are tight as heck
 
a lot of times i have to use a 3/8 impact to break them loose because they are tight as heck
Yes, my makita 18v Impact broke two bits. I used a small soldering torch and concentrated it on the bottom of the cylinder where the threads poked out. Finally broke loose. Sucks when you think you got an easy fix and then it goes south:mad:
 
You got lucky....they crimp the nuts down on the bolts at the factory. Usually they will twist and break trying to get them off. You can squeeze them with vise grips to relieve the crimp in some cases. But you always want to have a replacement on hand before you start.

EDIT: I am aware this is advise about muffler bolts and not cylinder bolts. I got off track when I had a loud brain fart.
 
You got lucky....they crimp the nuts down on the bolts at the factory. Usually they will twist and break trying to get them off. You can squeeze them with vise grips to relieve the crimp in some cases. But you always want to have a replacement on hand before you start.
Me glad I got lucky.. You guys take the time to remove the whole clamshell to install a new piston, or just finagle it.
 
That all depends on how easy that damn rear bar stud is to remove. It connects the clamshell to the frame and it is usually glued with epoxy from the factory. Having the proper removal tool is the only way unless you plan on replacing the entire stud. I've seen the glue hold so well that the stud bolt twisted and snapped in half
 
Gday
Many years ago when we had trouble with Philips head screws or Allen head bolts in side cases or whatever on jap motor cycles engines we used a punch and a hammer , centring the punch on head of bolt or screw we then hit punch with several sharp blows
this would break the seel or grip the expansion and contraction the heat would put on the threads or oxidation on threads
it may well work for you on your motor
an impact screw driver was a good tool to but if not of good quality or if not used properly could damage heads and leave you with a bigger problem
just a thought yeah
when replacing bolts clean threads up on white wheel and apply anti rust lube or anti seize grease :O)
 
That all depends on how easy that damn rear bar stud is to remove. It connects the clamshell to the frame and it is usually glued with epoxy from the factory. Having the proper removal tool is the only way unless you plan on replacing the entire stud. I've seen the glue hold so well that the stud bolt twisted and snapped in half
Thanks.. I'll just finagle it. I just did a ms250 piston, but it was a pain. Thought it might be wise to go the extra mile to ease the frustration.
 
You got lucky....they crimp the nuts down on the bolts at the factory. Usually they will twist and break trying to get them off. You can squeeze them with vise grips to relieve the crimp in some cases. But you always want to have a replacement on hand before you start.

Huh? You must be referring to a different model. There's no nuts holding the engine together. The bolts screw into the cylinder.
 
In our shop, we don't even hit those screws with our 20V DeWalt impact anymore. 90% of the time it won't work. We simply have a high quality 27 Torx setup onto a 3/8 ratchet and short extension. They spin right out that way.
 
Gee do I know the feeling. I snapped a t27 bit in one and had a hell of a time drilling and chipping away with a centre punch to get the broken bit out. If you can drill the head off getting it out of the cylinder is easy once the head is out off the chassis.


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