MS361 oiler is SLOOOOOOOOOW

[Canyon Angler]

I opened up the oil-flow speed screw to full open and I swear my brand-new 361 hardly uses ANY bar and chain oil. My old MS-310 was pretty miserly on oil but this is nutz!

The bar and chain aren't getting burned or even hot, and I've checked/cleaned the oiler hole in the bar and cleaned any debris out of the bar groove. I just have to wonder whether I'm getting ENOUGH oil to sling the chips...and when winter comes, and the oil gets like molasses, I wonder whether I'll be getting ANY oil out if it.

Any tips on getting this thing to oil any better? Should I thin the oil with kero or something? When winter comes, should I mix my bar and chain oil with drain oil to get the viscosity down?

Thanks for any tips.

Jeff

 

[litefoot]

I have a new 361 with about 5-6 tanks of fuel through it. The first tankful of fuel, it was barely oiling (most of a tank of oil was left when I topped off the fuel). I turned the oiler up and the second tank was the same...and my bar was smoking!! The third tank of fuel, for whatever reason, the oiler started working as expected...putting out about 3/4 of a tank of oil to each fuel top off...and has been fine since.

So I guess you could run it a few more times and see if it improves.

 

[Freakingstang]

The bar and chain aren't getting burned or even hot, and I've checked/cleaned the oiler hole in the bar and cleaned any debris out of the bar groove. I just have to wonder whether I'm getting ENOUGH oil to sling the chips...and when winter comes, and the oil gets like molasses, I wonder whether I'll be getting ANY oil out if it.

Then there is not a problem. Newer saws don't oil like the older saws for epa reasons.

In the winter, use the winter grade bar oil. It is thinner.

Sorry, this is not what you want to hear, but this is a reality with the newer saws.

 

[Dadatwins]

There should be just a bit of oil left in the tank after the fuel has run out. If the oiler tank is still full and you have run out fuel mix there is a problem.

 

[Lakeside53]

I'm geting just over half a tank of oil user per tank of gas. If your bar isn't burning, you are probably o.k.

 

[bwalker]

The 361 I had oiled adequatly. Almost a tank of oil per tnak of fuel, but my saw was modified and turning more RPM which has a influance on oiler out put.
Freak, I dont think the EPA has any limits on bar oil output....yet.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Is there a HO oiler kit for it like I have seen posted for other saws?

Ian

 

[manual]

What kind of bar lube are you using.
Mine does just fine in bar lube and gas ratio.
Like lake said if you are not burning the bar then you are doing great.
One thing you might want to look at is the hole in the bar for lube I like to scrap out the paint in it on my bars.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

The bar and chain aren't getting burned or even hot...

Then there's no problem. Stihls supposedly oil less han other brands, but I've never cooked a bar or chain, even running long bars. My 361 wears a 24" most of the time.

I've never worried much about winter grade oil. I've found that the heat from the saw warms the bar oil, and flows just fine.

 

[Gark]

I was concerned too about weak bar oiling outa this MS290 (ya I know- consumer saw, not pro saw, etc.) cuz it wouldn't spew oil like the older units, but it DOES pump enough to leave a oil film between the bar and moving chain parts to lubricate 'em. No matter how it's reefed or bogged in cuts, the bar never gets hot, smokes or discolored. My uneducated guess (and other forums here) is that Stihl relies on lube distribution through those e-matic holes in the drive links to spread the little bar lube it pumps. Sure can't expect the spray of lube you used to get from older (or other brand) saws by revving the saw while pointing the bar at a target. Yet, it cuts and doesn't wear too much. Just a homeowner's opinion (with a 'consumer' saw) so take this FWIW.

 

[Gark]

Oh yeah, It definitely helps to use lighter bar lube (Stihl winter lube here) in cold weather. If it pours slow or lumpy, go lighter.

 

[belgian]

I'm geting just over half a tank of oil user per tank of gas. If your bar isn't burning, you are probably o.k.

same here. no overheating problem witnessed so far, so must be OK.

 

[Jaxx]

Had the same problem with the 440. Bar and chain would overheat when cutting stumps. Tried different bar oils with no improvement. Bought a 359 only since it was $200 cheaper than a 361 out the door. This is my first saw that was not a Stihl (over 30 yrs.). First thing I noticed was the lack of vibration. Second, the lack of vibration. After that was the lack of weight. This is also the smallest saw I’ve owned. Then the heat from the CAT muffler. Ordered a pre-CAT muffler for $40. Big difference in heat retention. Last was the oiler. It was oiling almost like the old Stihl’s used to. I’ve worked with this saw for a number of weeks now. Doesn’t cut like the 440 but I cut longer – Less weight and vibration. The oiler is very good. Has no problem with any oil, even walmart green. Bar does not overheat cutting stumps. Using a 24" bar, same as the 440. The 440 is now my wood saw. Using the 359 for work. Next job thinking about picking up a 5100, someone said it may pull a 24" bar?

Thanks to Lake and others on this site, I’ve learned more about saws.

Jaxx

 

[Canyon Angler]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I guess I'll just keep an eye on it. // Jeff

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Andy?... no HO kit to be had?

 

[SawTroll]

The Oiliomatic bars and chain reduces the visiable oil, and also reduces the needed amount a bit.

If you want more output, try veg-oil for starters......