ms440 Rebuild

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Thank you, I'll check the link out. Considering this is my first rebuild, I am very hesitant to split the case, but I want to learn and I want to do it right, so I am game. Has anyone looked at the very first picture in the set and can tell me if the case is supposed to sit offset like that?

That offset in the case alignment is common, it will not cause any problems.
 
Thanks for that info!

Are there proven methods for testing the bearings without splitting the case? I am going to the shop in a bit and I will spray it with air, use a magnet, and try to get it as clean as possible.

That offset in the case alignment is common, it will not cause any problems.
 
Thanks for that info!

Are there proven methods for testing the bearings without splitting the case? I am going to the shop in a bit and I will spray it with air, use a magnet, and try to get it as clean as possible.

Bearings are more of a feel for than any test. You can feel if they are smooth turning, check for up and down + front to back movement, they should have no noticeable movement at all.
 
I feel no movement at all. It feels smooth when it turns. I am at a crossroads now. I am ready to place my order for the topend, but I have been strongly cautioned by a friend that even if I see no damage and everything feels fine, that may not be the case. decisions, decisions.....

Bearings are more of a feel for than any test. You can feel if they are smooth turning, check for up and down + front to back movement, they should have no noticeable movement at all.
 
I feel no movement at all. It feels smooth when it turns. I am at a crossroads now. I am ready to place my order for the topend, but I have been strongly cautioned by a friend that even if I see no damage and everything feels fine, that may not be the case. decisions, decisions.....

I cannot make that decision for you, me being here and you there. I have a combined 51 years working with bearings and have been trained to feel how a bearing turns, from the sounds of it you have not so its up to you at this point. I would leave them as is, get new seals, they are easy to pull and replace, no need to split the cases and you can flush out the bearings really good when the seals are out before putting the top end on. The saw should be squeaky clean before any parts are reinstalled. Good luck, I have 5, 044`s that I have worked in the woods since 1990, they are my favorite Stihl saw closely followed by my 044/046 hybrids.
 
I appreciate the advice. I was leaning towards this route and I appreciate the vote of confidence. This is my first saw rebuild and I am very excited and eager to begin. I have heard great things about the 440 and and look forward to getting this up and running and moving on to the 441 rebuild. I own an 026, 260, 028av, 021, and a 455 Rancher so this will be my biggest saw once completed. Thanks again.

I cannot make that decision for you, me being here and you there. I have a combined 51 years working with bearings and have been trained to feel how a bearing turns, from the sounds of it you have not so its up to you at this point. I would leave them as is, get new seals, they are easy to pull and replace, no need to split the cases and you can flush out the bearings really good when the seals are out before putting the top end on. The saw should be squeaky clean before any parts are reinstalled. Good luck, I have 5, 044`s that I have worked in the woods since 1990, they are my favorite Stihl saw closely followed by my 044/046 hybrids.
 
This is probably a rookie question, but it is ok to spray the saw down with degreaser when it is open and exposed like this? I have a high pressure air nossel to spray it out before and afterwards.View attachment 298359

I would not as water and bearings do not get along well, its very difficult to get the bearings dry after wetting them with oil stripping degreasers.
 
I managed to get the saw pretty clean, although I am going to clean further tomorrow. It turns out the clips were still installed at the piston. I removed the clips, but I had trouble removing the wrist pin and piston. Any suggestions?

I also placed an order tonight and was wondering if I am missing anything.
Stihl oem complete gasket set ($32.00), Stihl oem cylinder jug/piston/wrist pin ($145.00), Tune-up kit ($20.00), Caber piston ring set ($15.00)

I ordered the piston ring compressor tool kit. Are there any other specialty tools I should order? Thanks!

View attachment 298381View attachment 298382
 
Find a round shaft screwdriver like a #3 Phillips that will enter but not pass through the wrist pin . Push it into the wrist pin and rotate and push at the same time holding the piston with your other hand to support it, the pin will push out between your fingers. The pins are just a push in fit, occasionally I have had to give one a tap to get it started if there is a bit of buildup on the pin.
Does your gasket kit contain the shaft seals?
 
I managed to get the saw pretty clean, although I am going to clean further tomorrow. It turns out the clips were still installed at the piston. I removed the clips, but I had trouble removing the wrist pin and piston. Any suggestions?

I also placed an order tonight and was wondering if I am missing anything.
Stihl oem complete gasket set ($32.00), Stihl oem cylinder jug/piston/wrist pin ($145.00), Tune-up kit ($20.00), Caber piston ring set ($15.00)

I ordered the piston ring compressor tool kit. Are there any other specialty tools I should order? Thanks!

View attachment 298381View attachment 298382

It's a good time to check or replace your rubber parts too. Fuel line, intake boot and impulse line.
 
What is included in the tune-up kit for a 440? $32 for a gasket set is pretty steep. I pay $19 for OEM.

I would order a fuel line, fuel filter & impulse hose if you haven't already.

How did you clean the saw? Did you get any water in the base?
 
Tune-up kit included air filter, fuel filter, and spark plug. I will order the fuel line and impulse hose. I thought it was expensive too, but it was the only oem set I could find. My google search only produced aftermarket gasket sets.

I cleaned the saw by spraying with an air nozzle, covering the base with a clean rag, degreasing the saw, and spraying with air again. I repeated this process about 5 times and I constantly blew the base out with air. I can't be 100% moisture didn't get in the base, but I am confident I made a true effort to keep it out.

What is included in the tune-up kit for a 440? $32 for a gasket set is pretty steep. I pay $19 for OEM.

I would order a fuel line, fuel filter & impulse hose if you haven't already.

How did you clean the saw? Did you get any water in the base?
 
Awesome, thanks for the tips! no heat needed? I will give it a shot this evening.

My gasket kit includes the following: GENUINE STIHL OEM # 1128 007 1050 (Oil seals, crankcase, muffler, carburetor & cylinder gaskets)

Find a round shaft screwdriver like a #3 Phillips that will enter but not pass through the wrist pin . Push it into the wrist pin and rotate and push at the same time holding the piston with your other hand to support it, the pin will push out between your fingers. The pins are just a push in fit, occasionally I have had to give one a tap to get it started if there is a bit of buildup on the pin.
Does your gasket kit contain the shaft seals?
 
Hmmmm, $32 included an air filter too? What style filter?
I didn't think STIHL carried an OEM "tune up kit" for any 1128 series saws.
I mostly see those kits for the homeowner stuff like the FS45 trimmer and MS250 saws...etc...
 
The tune up kit was $20 and it is aftermarket. Everything else is oem, including the gasket kit which I believe you are referring to.

Hmmmm, $32 included an air filter too? What style filter?
I didn't think STIHL carried an OEM "tune up kit" for any 1128 series saws.
I mostly see those kits for the homeowner stuff like the FS45 trimmer and MS250 saws...etc...
 
The tune up kit was $20 and it is aftermarket. Everything else is oem, including the gasket kit which I believe you are referring to.

Yes, my mistake.

BUT.....
you say in the tune up kit ($20) was the following....spark plug ($2), fuel filter ($5) so that leaves ($13 for an airfilter).

I don't know about anyone else here, but I wouldn't be running a $13 aftermarket air filter on my 044/440 !!

OEM air filters only for me please.
STIHL HD or HD2 is the only way to go on these saws IMO.
 
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