ms440 Rebuild
- Thread starter Carolina Diesel
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Carolina Diesel
ArboristSite Operative
That is great,.I will keep my eye peeled for when you start posting about putting this saw back together.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
It's great to see you making progress. Listen to Jerry.....he knows his stuff. I was once right where you are. Jerry helped me too.
Rep for you when it runs.
Carolina Diesel
ArboristSite Operative
He has been a huuuuge help! The entire site has been an incredible database of knowledge. I really appreciate everyone. I'm glad to know I'm not the only one saw-crazy.
It's great to see you making progress. Listen to Jerry.....he knows his stuff. I was once right where you are. Jerry helped me too.
Rep for you when it runs.
Carolina Diesel
ArboristSite Operative
My gaskets, piston and cylinder have arrived. Any advice on what's next. I would imagine I need to ensure the entire saw is spotless and then change my gaskets? Suggestions on both would be much appreciated.
Pull the old seals out and flush those bearings real good, blow out with comp air then rinse out the crankcase with a couple rinses of regular mixed fuel. Make sure everything inside the crankcase is real clean. Then install the new seals, lube the seal lips with two stroke oil. You need to be very careful installing the clutch side seal the shoulder on the crank can catch the seal lip and flip the small girdle spring off the inner lip of the seal.
Carolina Diesel
ArboristSite Operative
Just to be clear, I am also flushing the bearings with mixed fuel? I work at a biodiesel plant and biodiesel is an excellent solvent. I will do a search on here and see if I can find a thread on here to follow along with the seal replacement.
Mix will clean out anything in there and some comp air will expell some grit and trapped sludge, it usually takes me 3 or sloshes to get them clean. I stick with mix as that is what the saw has been run on and what the new seals will be subjected to and designed to be exposed to.
Carolina Diesel
ArboristSite Operative
Good call on the mix. I will try and get some work done to the saw over the next few days and will have pictures forthcoming, when the rest of my order arrives.
Carolina Diesel
ArboristSite Operative
All of my parts are in and I am going to begin this evening by installing my seals. i have done a search and been having difficulty finding a thread or instructions to follow for replacing seals. anyone know of any guide, thread, or instructions i can use?
Carolina Diesel
ArboristSite Operative
I am going to begin the rebuild tonight, starting with the seals. Can anyone give advice or point me in the right direction for properly replacing the seals. Also, I am having trouble removing the decompression valve from the old cylinder. Any advice, as the service manual only provided a brief instruction. Thank you in advance.
I believe it takes a 13mm deep well socket to remove that decomp valve and maybe a squirt of penetrating oil. Have you pulled the seals yet? Stihl makes a fancy seal puller ($$). I use a lisle puller but some folks modify a small flat screw driver grinding a hook into it to pull the seal. Just be careful to not scratch the crank shaft. And you can use a deep well socket to gently drive the new seals back on taking care, as pioneerguy stated, to lube them with mix oil and to watch that the inner lip doesn't curl up.
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Mike from Maine
Read that the ms362 is awesome!!!
LISLE - Shaft Type Seal Puller (58430) - YouTube
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<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/BtsGU2nLrJg?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Carolina Diesel
ArboristSite Operative
Thank you guys so much. Decompression valve was a piece of cake. I don't have the seal pulle, but I've seen a few ideas on how to make one. I purchased the complete Stihl seal kit, but I imagine I'm going to have 1 seal leftover since I am not splitting the case?
The seals are really not all that difficult to replace, once removed with one type of tool or the other . Lube the lips of the seals and carefully slide them into place over the seal bore, then choose a deep well socket that is just slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the metal seal housing, get the seal level and true to the bore and then just tap it into place. The Stihl repair manual that describes this servicing is of little help to the untrained installer as they refer all of this operation to the use of their special tools and it does not help much when you don`t have those special tools.
RiverRocket
ArboristSite Guru
Just be careful and take your time..make sure the seal is sitting flush before you start tapping it in..
If it starts to go in uneven you can bend or distort the seal..Make sure your socket or whatever you're using to seat it is sitting squarely on the seal
If it starts to go in uneven you can bend or distort the seal..Make sure your socket or whatever you're using to seat it is sitting squarely on the seal
Carolina Diesel
ArboristSite Operative
After struggling with the flywheel nut, breaking a fin on the flywheel in the process, I have decided to call a timeout and order the proper tools. I will get good use out of them with all of the saws i have to rebuild, and I definitely don't want to struggle in the process. Luckily, I found a used oem replacement for $12. I was able to finally break loose the nut, however the I was unsuccessful in actually removing the flywheel. I will be ordering the following tools, please let me know if I missed anything.
-seal puller
-piston stop
-flywheel puller
-seal puller
-piston stop
-flywheel puller
I don`t recommend using a metal piston stop, the OEM Stihl plastic type work well. Do you have a deep well socket that will drive the two different diameter seals in?
old-cat
Fir Man
A 3/8" impact wrench works BETTER than anything else for removing flywheels and clutches. You do need the flywheel puller tool. No seal puller and no piston stop, you'll probably want a ring compressor at some point.
I have an excellent pneumatic impact wrench, brand new, I want $25 for if you're interested.
