MS660 32" or 36" bar?

[jsd176]

I’m looking at getting a bigger bar for my 660. It has a 25” bar now and it does everything I need, but like most guys I want something bigger just to say I have it. I was thinking either a 32” or a 36” bar. I’ve been trying to figure out which one would feel better on the saw. Either way I know it’s going to be nose heavy. So as vain as this sounds, what looks better and feels better on a 660, 32” or 36”. I’ve heard someone say the 36” bar feels about 20” longer than the 32” bar. I’m guessing the 32” bar isn’t much cheaper than the 36” bar. I was quoted around $75 for a 36” Stihl. Just curious what everyone’s thoughts are. Any pictures with the saws and either bar length would be appreciated. Also, I asked about the 36” bar with 11 nose sprocket teeth and was told they only make it with 13 now. Can anyone verify that for me?

Thanks!!!

 

[blsnelling]

LINK

 

[superfire]

in the west young man

go big or go home to mama loong bars rule on the left side of the world. on the wrong on side of the the world short bars rule. go figure me i see as wastin your time on a 66 with any bar shorter then 36" any saw with 80++++++++++ is grounds for a bar longer then 36". me i have a 460 Stihl and it kicks back more with a 24" then a 32" bar go figure as Dr Snellerizer linked in his post that is a got some good points.

 

[GASoline71]

Hard to find an 066/660 around here without a 36" bar on it...

Gary

 

[Reuscherd]

36"

 

[Cedarkerf]

If you all ready have 25 go 36 If weight and nose heavy is a n issue put an Oregon reduced weight bar on,

 

[superfire]

bar length

i hate to bend over so i put on long bars to make life easier but why is it i see people buy high cc chainsaws and put tiny bars on them, it only makes the saw seem faster and there is no practical use for this combo. in my area the most common setup on 60cc sawz is 28" and then it gets into 70cc is 32" and 90cc is 36" my dealer in my neck of woods sells factory 36" for around 10 saw chips more then a 32" see no reason not to buy the 36". as i have said before the type and length of dawgs can also be part of the decision to buy a longer bar to make up for the area under the dawgs

 

[smokinj]

36 32 not much of a difference but I would still run the 36in.

 

[Tzed250]

I’m looking at getting a bigger bar for my 660. It has a 25” bar now and it does everything I need, but like most guys I want something bigger just to say I have it. I was thinking either a 32” or a 36” bar. I’ve been trying to figure out which one would feel better on the saw. Either way I know it’s going to be nose heavy. So as vain as this sounds, what looks better and feels better on a 660, 32” or 36”. I’ve heard someone say the 36” bar feels about 20” longer than the 32” bar. I’m guessing the 32” bar isn’t much cheaper than the 36” bar. I was quoted around $75 for a 36” Stihl. Just curious what everyone’s thoughts are. Any pictures with the saws and either bar length would be appreciated. Also, I asked about the 36” bar with 11 nose sprocket teeth and was told they only make it with 13 now. Can anyone verify that for me?

Thanks!!!

For the OP, saw porrn...

.

 

[GASoline71]

Purty new ES bar on that mutha... The ES is the best bar made.

Gary

 

[Tzed250]

Purty new ES bar on that mutha... The ES is the best bar made.

Gary

Purty...Chek

Heavy..Chek

Expensive...Chek

Battleship..Chek!!!


.

 

[Evan]

i just put 32" ES on my husky 372 and realy like it but ive come across one little snag. it realy isnt cutn very much more then 28" bar. darned husky dawgs are to big. they cut actualy be about 1.5s shorter and still do the same job.

i think i should have gone for the 36" because even when buying the 32" i has plans of it someday being on 660. now im close to getn 660 066 and am thinking i should have got the 36" because 32" is just to close to 36".

but i will have 42" on my 660 when that plan materializes and the saw wont be exackly stock. it might not be ported but it wont be stock either

i guess since i probly made no sence.
id buy the 36" over the 32" specialy sence the wood i cut is quite often much larger then 32"

this is my ported 372 pulling the 32" in bar sized wood. it does pretty good i think. a 660 would probly realy be screamin with the bar on it in this same wood
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid661.photobucket.com/albums/uu339/Evan03_photo/saw%20stuff/GEDC0886.flv">

 

[bitzer]

Purty new ES bar on that mutha... The ES is the best bar made.

Gary

I think i'd have to agree with you there. No greasin for one. Two: I had 36" ES bend like a banana when a rotten elm split down the middle and fell early to the wrong side. It took the saw out of my hands and all I could do was step back and watch in horror as the brand new bar bent from the pinched nose to the powerhead's weight. The tree spit it back out at me and the saw landed straight on the back of the handle. I walked up to it and thought for sure something was broke. Checked the saw, checked the bar. Amazingly nothing. Couldn't believe it.

That saws a little too pretty for me. She looks like she wouldn't give me the time of day. I'd love to give er a run though.

 

[husky455rancher]

i got a 25 on mine normally. but i do have a 36 for the big uns. i got the 36 from the dealer i think it was like 80 bucks with tax.

 

[Tzed250]

.


Same saw, 25" bar.

.

 

[porky616]

i normally run a 20" on my 066 but every now and then i will take the 36" bar off the 880 and make the little girl work a bit harder.

 

[2dogs]

Here is a couple of pics of a 36" bar on a MS660. Size your bar by the timber you are cutting, not by how it looks.

 

[jsd176]

I'm in PA, so there aren't too many trees I come across that a 25" bar can't handle. Saws are a hobby for me, so getting a bigger bar isn't out of necessity. As far a how it looks, I guess I should have qualified that statement. I'm more concerned about how much "longer" a 36" bar is compared to a 32" bar. 4 inches doesn't seem like much, but I know it can feel like a mile. Thanks everyone for the pictures, it helps but the bar sizes in perspective for me. I think I'm going to go with the 36" bar and full comp RSC. I was hoping to get it with 11 instead of 13 nose sprocket teeth. Any input on what gauge? I'm currently running 0.050" gauge. I'd like to stay with a 3/8" pitch since that is how both my saws are set up right now. Also, my 660 has the 3/4" wrap handle and larger clutch cover. How to I determine if it has the high output oiler?

Thanks everyone for all the advice!

 

[bowtechmadman]

Tzed great pics...now when you gonna put that big ole bar in some wood?

 

[bitzer]

I'm in PA, so there aren't too many trees I come across that a 25" bar can't handle. Saws are a hobby for me, so getting a bigger bar isn't out of necessity. As far a how it looks, I guess I should have qualified that statement. I'm more concerned about how much "longer" a 36" bar is compared to a 32" bar. 4 inches doesn't seem like much, but I know it can feel like a mile. Thanks everyone for the pictures, it helps but the bar sizes in perspective for me. I think I'm going to go with the 36" bar and full comp RSC. I was hoping to get it with 11 instead of 13 nose sprocket teeth. Any input on what gauge? I'm currently running 0.050" gauge. I'd like to stay with a 3/8" pitch since that is how both my saws are set up right now. Also, my 660 has the 3/4" wrap handle and larger clutch cover. How to I determine if it has the high output oiler?

Thanks everyone for all the advice!

There should be a number on the oiler, but maybe not the whole part number. Did the saw come with the 3/4 wrap? If it did it may have it then. Otherwise take a look at the oiler and compare it to a known oiler and see if theres any difference.