It probably will be perfect as long as your only cutting 12" cants of poplar.
Ms660 with 6 k products 11 pin rim sprocket today
- Thread starter Spanky
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Why start another thread, this one is going nowhere.
When you start try tightening the nut first, the threads are usually cleaner going in(it only needs to move a little bit) rather than out and you can break the corrosion loose, then you can start to back it out with lubricant if it's real rusty, if it jambs as you are backing it out tighten the bolt and spray more lubricant in it to clean the threads and chase off the debris cleaned of the threads you've already been across, repeat as needed until the nut is off. Many times when a bolt or nut on a stud gets jammed up the bolt/stud will break flush to the surface, if you have a very stubborn one you can heat to loosen tighten it instead of loosening it, this will typically break the bolt/stud off above the surface, then you can weld a nut to it and back it out I've done this many times on exhaust studs.
Yeah someone got it lol.
Spanker, if you want to get into performance saws do it properly and get some fast saws. I'd toss the strobo-5000 and use the 11pin as a drink coaster until then.
Sure, but in reality, a 32" bar would suggest larger wood.
Much different back before it changed in the 60's when little sprockets were/are the game,
The wood was big and the drive was different.
Drive changed, saws got less powerful and the saws got lighter BUT the wood stayed the same. Hence: Mr SKIP!
A lower gear, right? 'Thats for the engine' . In 'bar size' , sprockets don't change, cutter intervals don't change. Got a flat file??? Got a round file???
The gearssss.....are between theeee ear'ssss. Period.
Spanky
ArboristSite Operative
test today was in red oak . But yeah I agree being most effecient would be a bar and sprocket change for every type and diameter of wood .
Spanky
ArboristSite Operative
You should look in to test equipment that has a .02 percent error over a formula with 21peecent error
Dam man......slamming a man with such witty banter will make him depressed for years.......hope he doesn’t leave the forum because of it......
Spanky
ArboristSite Operative
No I'm not going to leave having too much fun here to leave .
Spanky
ArboristSite Operative
So let's talk about torque .Let's talk about engine rpm .Lets talk about gearing . . If I gear a 4.3 with a 3.73 gear it goes 2200 rpms at 70 will have a larger tow load than the 4.3 with a 3.31 gear turning 1500 rpms at 70 mph . But the terminal speed of 3.31 geared vehicle will be alot higher than the terminal speed of the 3.73 gear before rev limited or blown up . So racing through flat cornfields in the west in same powered same wieght s10 the 3.31 gear wins . If sawing wood of different diameters ,hardness for firewood is the deal then the seven pin factory sprocket is the way the chain link count is correct and fits easily . If racing is what your doing might want to look at gearing in my opinion. Cause no matter the percentage of error the formula has the chain speed will be higher at all engine rpms from 1 rpm to 13500 for the 11 pin . A seven pin saw has to turn around 20000 rpm to have the same speed by the formula as a 11 pin at 13500 rpm . At 13500 with a 7 pin the 11 pin has to turn 8600 engine rpm to match chain speed. When saw racing typically everyone gets the same diameter and hardness of wood unless you choose to cut in a knot
There is a $.49 app that will tell you enough till you do it for real.
Too many variables
I’ll be gone for a while.
Reading Emmanuel Kant’s “Critique or Practical Reason”
Reading Emmanuel Kant’s “Critique or Practical Reason”
What a novel idea.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Yes but you start going up hill the 373s will hold better speed and the 331s will not just like the seven pin will hold more speed under more load than the 11pin will Yea if you're cutting lims all day sure run a 11pin but if you're cutting big wood then put the 7pin on you'll see that you cut time will be better and your bar and chain will last way longer to.
I dare anybody to introduce him to the "Raker gauge maker guy"----I guess I will stand in for Harley
---------David--Lets just work on old saws and cut some wood!!
---------David--Lets just work on old saws and cut some wood!!
This place has become a Physics and math study site--do not forget E=Mc Squared ----------Mc stands for Mcculloch---means everyone needs at least 4 of them--David
So well put.
It’s like Smokey or Junior Johnson said when being shown the big lab where they tested engines.......
“That’s all very nice. But you don’t know what it will do until you blow it up.......on the track.”
This is a really stupid thread, lets get back to the real world. Steve
Spanky
ArboristSite Operative
Yep everyone needs Macs at least 4 of them a few pioneers a David Bradley gear reduction or or two etc . I also agree the old forum click guys should leave the physics out and do more practical testing with test equipment as I do
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