Go over the dealers head. Call Stihl headquarters. I never list a saw in registration as professional use.
Mtronic idle adjustment
- Thread starter Andrew Cunningham
- Start date
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Or quit all the bitchin' and adjust the damned screw already. Sheesh.
KodiakForge
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the support I absolutely will. I suppose I’ll have to wait until after the holidays to get into it again but I appreciate the suggestion
KodiakForge
ArboristSite Lurker
Lol. I Didn’t realize sharing my experience was bitchin.
Sadly, all your complaints are common. Stihl dealers have eaten a lot of costs replacing these parts and are trying to protect the reputation of their product. Unfortunately Mtronic is delicate and expensive. It’s the true price of a very durable and user friendly saw with great power; $200 in new parts every year or so.
If you’re doing it yourself, definitely try the idle adjust first. If that doesn’t solve your problem, then you’re going to drop some cash. If possible, swapping in a known good carb and solenoid first will help identify the problem. If the problem persists with a known good carb, then it’s somewhere else in the saw (coil or air leak are most likely).
If a known good carb solves the problem, purge the fuel line, then replace the fuel filter with a new small micron orange filter. Try that, but it’s highly unlikely that will solve your problem. Once you have a clean line and filter, replace the solenoid. The black ones have been superseded by green ones. They look identical other than color, and I’m skeptical there is any mechanical difference at all. You can also replace with a white solenoid from a larger model (I have had greater longevity with these but they cost more and are not recommended by Stihl). Try again. If the saw still has trouble, the carb itself is compromised or the problem is somewhere else in the saw. I have not successfully kitted one of these Mtronic Carburetors, but I think others have. It’s your call wether you want to replace or rebuild.
I hope you get her running!
If you’re doing it yourself, definitely try the idle adjust first. If that doesn’t solve your problem, then you’re going to drop some cash. If possible, swapping in a known good carb and solenoid first will help identify the problem. If the problem persists with a known good carb, then it’s somewhere else in the saw (coil or air leak are most likely).
If a known good carb solves the problem, purge the fuel line, then replace the fuel filter with a new small micron orange filter. Try that, but it’s highly unlikely that will solve your problem. Once you have a clean line and filter, replace the solenoid. The black ones have been superseded by green ones. They look identical other than color, and I’m skeptical there is any mechanical difference at all. You can also replace with a white solenoid from a larger model (I have had greater longevity with these but they cost more and are not recommended by Stihl). Try again. If the saw still has trouble, the carb itself is compromised or the problem is somewhere else in the saw. I have not successfully kitted one of these Mtronic Carburetors, but I think others have. It’s your call wether you want to replace or rebuild.
I hope you get her running!
KodiakForge
ArboristSite Lurker
I guarantee I will.
stihl86
Addicted to ArboristSite
If this is in response to the saw, fat chance, Replace the solenoid.
Which is a known, very common problem with 201TC's and are covered under a 2 year emissions warranty that a dealer shouldn't reject, because, short of a tank full of water or a black fuel filter, he has no way to diagnose the failure. It's your attitude that's the problem.
You're manic. Your saws broke. Tough ****. Giving me **** isn't fixing your saw.
I got pages of real life Mtronic failures and repairs. Since they came out.
Some took hundreds of dollars. Hearing **** from a person like you really pisses me off.
Real men don't ***** and moan like you been doing all over the boards.
Your looking to fix the saw for free. You want free information.
You don't have the ability to repair it, so go with a very common known problem.
You would have been asked to leave our shop, judging from you antics on here.
No one can fix your saw online. You cant plug it into a usb port. Shut the f up and try some of the suggestions. Systematically.
The solenoid, depending on serial number is probably 0000 120 5110 with lists for S21.49.
Newer saws use 0000 120 5104, which I haven't had to replace yet.
IT's very likely your problem. Not 100% sure. But you have -0- clue what your doing. But you keep looking for the answer you want. But you have no idea what it is.
KodiakForge
ArboristSite Lurker
Hahahaha dude your a joke. You must have some major superiority complex and insecurity issues. You ought to see a therapist. I found my problem no it wasn’t anything you’ve suggested in fact your info has been the least informative of all here. Looks like the ********** at the dealer loosened the flywheel nut and it sheared the key, well Unless that too is a common problem. Probably a guy just like you. So my flywheel is ****ed and that’s my problem. But thanks mr know it all glad you solved my problem let me now at your feet! ****! Yeah I do bounce things of people because that’s what learning is asking others and people and sharing knowledge. If your against that you ought to stay in the house and offline. This is the same **** you’ve done with numerous people here. It’s all predictable like clock work. Look in the mirror bud.
KodiakForge
ArboristSite Lurker
You have zero clue who I am! Show me where I’m manic? I’ve simply got on here to find a solution and found you acting like a tyrant all over the place. I’ve helped some others while on here and had other useful conversation on here. Sounds to me like your self describing when you say manic. And you got bit hurt because I called you out for being a weasel after your sick cheese comment. After this you can have the last word because your a waste of time and I figured out my problem, no thanks to you. If I can learn to rebuild Diesel engines, transmissions, bikes, older saws etc. how hard is an mtronic saw? There is a learning curve sure and that’s fine, I’ll figure it out but doesn’t mean I have to like it. I know it’s a hard pill to swallow that some people can figure things out for themselves with out bowing to some ******* like you but the world has existed before you and will long after you. Your part numbers are useless her as I have figured out my issue.
KodiakForge
ArboristSite Lurker
Your dismissed you can go back to being a hero!
Wow that’s pretty ridiculous that they quit. It’s not a huge deal, just hook the saw up to the SDS and run through all the tests, if the SDS doesn’t tell you anything and the saw still has problems then you treat it like a standard chainsaw and start looking for the problem like you have always done, check the piston, seal it off and pressure and vacuum test and on down the line until you find out what’s going on. A lot of times it will just be a fuel filter and solenoid replacement and on some 201Ts it’s even under warranty. I have no problem working on M-tronic saws.One of the local Stihl dealers said two of his mechanics quit when the Mtronics started to show up. They just plain hated working on them and found another way to earn a living. I've worked on several and I have to admit that they are not a lot of fun. When I eventually get them running right, I breathe a sigh of relief.
My experience with a Stihl mtronic saw that won't tick over is, it's either a sticky solenoid or the compression is down.
KodiakForge
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks, in diagnosing, my cylinder and piston both look pristine (as far as one can see without complete removal of P&C. I did notice the flywheel nut was backing off and key way in flywheel was gone so I suspect that could be my issue (it’s certainly an issue at least) I got another on its way and will be going from there. My symptoms were that it would start with trigger pinned first pull but took several pulls in choke mode, And when it would start in choke mode it wouldn’t idle long enough for recalibration which I tried first. I’ll know more when I get the new flywheel on and go from there. I’ve never had a flywheel nut loosen itself and come of like this did, never in my life. I’m somewhat suspicious of sabotage, as the tech at the dealer who called to inform me I wasn’t covered under warranty due to being a “commercial user” was a total ******* after Saying if it’s not under warranty after a few months of use please don’t work on it as I’ll fix it myself. He exploded on me over the phone and again later in person when I picked my saw up. After asking around on here I ran into another tech that acts just like the one I experienced over the phone and in person which only makes my suspicion a little stronger. Thanks for the suggestions I’ll be looking into them in the near future as I follow the trail.
Flywheel may be cracked maybe? causing the looseness of the nut?
Good luck with the saw, you will get there in the end!
Good luck with the saw, you will get there in the end!
Stihl aluminum flywheels need to be installed with a piston block and wrench. Just rattling them back on with an impact won’t do it. I ruined two flywheels before I learned my lesson. There’s no way to know if that’s what happened here, but it’s a possibility.
KodiakForge
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks. It certainly was not from me. It either was assembled incorrectly by an incompetent worker at the factory or the tech I brought it in to played some funny games because his feelings got hurt when I said if it isn’t under warranty I’ll fix it myself. I’ve not touched it until it was acting up, had been taken to dealer and was returned to me.Thanks for the tip though. I in no way planned on using an impact to set an aluminum flywheel. I have piston stops and all that stuff. I assume there is a torque spec out there somewhere? It’s not always possible to see cracks but I have spent a fair amount of time looking over the broken one and I didn’t see anything like that.
Had a flywheel come loose on a Stihl 032 last week.The flywheel key is toast and I am having a heck of a time getting all the old key out of the crank.
Kash
Kash
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