Muffler for MS460

[Stihlman441]

No large clutch cover.

 

[Beer Gut]

I did the same mod to my 460 with the Bailey's cover, I cut the front of baffle completely off, opened stock port to double its size, and installed cover. I am happy with mine. I did have to pull limiter caps and retune carb with this setup.

 

[splitpost]

I did have to pull limiter caps and retune carb with this setup.

Good thing you did,wouldn't want to wreck an awesome saw

 

[naturelover]

What is that half moon shape peice/rubber/gasket looking thingy at the top of the exhaust port?

 

[splitpost]

What is that half moon shape peice/rubber/gasket looking thingy at the top of the exhaust port?

looks like the port is still part open and there a shadow or something maybe some oil blackening on the roof of that port,looks normal to me

 

[naturelover]

Looks like it has an eyelid! :msp_biggrin:

 

[Raganr]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Sorry that I have been away from the thread for a few days.

I guess I should have done more research before buying the muffler from Bailey’s.

The good news is that the muffler combo was the same price as just the cover (when I ordered it).

I spent some time working on the NWP muffler this weekend and below are pics of how it came out. I didn’t take a pictures of the cover before opening it up but the black paint on the screen outlines the original opening.

Should I open up it up more?

My next question is about the gasket. The one I ordered from Bailey’s looks like a rubber/composite material while the factory one is metal. Is there any reason not to use the factory gasket again? Is it directional?

From searching around, I figured that I would need to pull the tabs and adjust the carb, just need to spend some more time searching around here to figure out how.

 

[Raganr]

You're exactly right. That's a big draw back on the Baileys muffler. Stihl knew that the screen flowed less than the same area without a screen, so installed the screen in a way that it had much more surface area. That way the screen would not be a bottle neck. On the Baileys muffler, your outlet hole is going to have to be much larger in order to get enough screen surface area. I recommend you use your original muffler body and the new cover. There's no need to even mess with the baffle in the OEM muffler. Open up the exhaust outlet as much as the deflector will cover. Finally, open up the port on the muffler cover.

Thanks blsnelling,

I will do this with the OEM, just needed to practice a little on the NWP. I am reading reading alot of your threads/posts and they are very helpful. Currently reading this one.

 

[Raganr]

Ok, got the muffler back on. I decided to use the OEM gasket since it didn't look damaged. Just waiting on the tool to remove the limiters.

Cleaned the air filter, have a new RSC chain, fresh gas, and some test wood to use while tuning (17" diameter oak). I will work on a log stand over the next few days.

When I pulled off the air filter cover, there was a black divider blocking off part of the air intake. I removed it, figured the more air the better....

 

[Stihlman441]

That black plastic shutter

''When I pulled off the air filter cover, there was a black divider blocking off part of the air intake. I removed it, figured the more air the better..''

That is installed for summer time use,stops it sucking hot air from engine.

 

[blsnelling]

Open the exhaust to the edges of the deflector.

All you need is a drywall screw to pull the limiters. You have to line up the notch first. Trim the tab and reinstall them.

Replace that black shutter. If you want to open it up, do so on the bottom dividers of the cover.

 

[Raganr]

Thanks Brad and Stihlman, glad to know the reason for the shutter (I put it back in). Limiters came out easily but I think I stripped the threads in the process. I kept pulling with the tool after they came out the initial 1/4" when I should have stopped and used pliers. The threads are fine and there isnt that many of them. If I hadn’t already ordered the tool, a drywall screw definitely would suffice.

Also picked up a larger dawg. Once everything is put back together and my camera finishes charging, I will post some pictures.

 

[Old Crosscut]

Po Boy Redneck Mod

In pics you'll seeView attachment 215563View attachment 215565View attachment 215566 the bottom part of a floor joist hanger cut, bent, and pop-riveted to the front cover of my MS460. It deflects the exhaust from two additional ½” holes drilled in the cover. I made no changes to the factory muffler body. Just a tad richer on tuning. Oh, yes--ear plugs!

 

[Beer Gut]

Open the exhaust to the edges of the deflector.

All you need is a drywall screw to pull the limiters. You have to line up the notch first. Trim the tab and reinstall them.

Replace that black shutter. If you want to open it up, do so on the bottom dividers of the cover.

2 inch with the finer thread works the best I nipped the very sharp tip since it dosn't contact the cap but stops you from getting a good grip with screw..

 

[Raganr]

Ok, all back together and got the log up off the ground. I was hoping to get it higher off the ground but it was a little on the heavy side for manual moving.

I cut the tabs off the limiters and stuck them back in.

When adjusting the H and L screws, it looks like the screw driver is inserted into the limiter not the actual adjustment screw...

Does the limiter grip the metal screw below to rotate it?

How do you know that you are actually adjusting the screw and not just spinning the limiter in the hole?

Am I going to damage the saw by starting it up without adjusting anything first?

 

[Stihlman441]

Looks good,make a vid if ya can.:msp_smile:

 

[Beer Gut]

Ok, all back together and got the log up off the ground. I was hoping to get it higher off the ground but it was a little on the heavy side for manual moving.

I cut the tabs off the limiters and stuck them back in.

When adjusting the H and L screws, it looks like the screw driver is inserted into the limiter not the actual adjustment screw...

Does the limiter grip the metal screw below to rotate it?

How do you know that you are actually adjusting the screw and not just spinning the limiter in the hole?

Am I going to damage the saw by starting it up without adjusting anything first?




Yes the caps grip the screws so when you turn the cap you turn both. Start with factory adjustment turn both H and L screws clockwise until they stop then back them both off 1 full turn before you start the saw. This is the factory setting for your carb. This setting will more than likely be to lean for your muff mod and you will need to fine tune from there. Get the saw good and hot but lay off the throttle, when its warmed up start fine tuning counterclockwise is richer. With a tach, a 460 L should be 2500-2700 RPM where throttle responce is the best. H should be around 13,500 WOT you should hear the 4 stroking sound and it should clean up in the cut.

www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm This link will help you tune.

 

[Raganr]

Thanks for the info guys. I got a few cuts in before it got dark (a few neighbors came over to see what the ruckus was ). Working on uploading the video to youtube right now (first time trying this so it could take a while).

I printed out the madsens instructions and had them with me. Thanks for the link.

 

[Beer Gut]

Thanks for the info guys. I got a few cuts in before it got dark (a few neighbors came over to see what the ruckus was ). Working on uploading the video to youtube right now (first time trying this so it could take a while).

I printed out the madsens instructions and had them with me. Thanks for the link.

Listen to that audio, pay attention to the 4 stroke sound they talk about, you want to hear that or you are to lean. That video from Brad on the 2nd page of this thread is good for that also that one helped me.

 

[Beer Gut]

At WOT you hear them turn the H screw clockwise lean until the saw screams then they back it off counter CW until it begins to break up thats 4 stroking, then go to the wood and the sound should go away while cutting.