Multimeter use

[ATpro]

Do you mean a separate rechargeable battery, that can take the place of AAs or whatever?

You can get rechargeable Li-ion Battery Cell or standard non-rechargeable Li-ion Battery Cells in AA, AAA, D CELL, C CELL, and others. for things like meters and such I get non-rechargeable Li-ion Battery Cell which last for years. Things like game cams I use rechargeable Li-ion Battery Cells. You can also use NiMH batteries which are rechargeable and won't explode in your device and can be used in most devices. Just do a google search on both NiMH batteries, and Li-ion Batteries and the results will be in the 1000s.

 

[OM617YOTA]

I've had plenty of NIMH rechargeables leak. There's a reason I don't bother with them anymore. They were also never charged when I needed them.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Thanks, I have no idea what I really need, but I do need something that works. I have been watching you-tube videos and making notes of things I think may come in handy later on. So far about 5 small pages of notes. I don't know what I will need to know till I need to know it, ya know what I mean Vern...

 

[OM617YOTA]

 

[NHden]

My first post on a thread here so please be gentle. I'm an electrical engineer and have worked on many instruments and power systems over the years. Would just like to add several thoughts and cast my vote for several others.

For the OP, the best way to learn what instruments can do for you is to learn basic ac and dc. Learn the difference between voltage, current and resistance. When troubleshooting an ignition, charger, kill circuit, measurement or reporting circuit, resistance measurements alone will frequently lead you to a fix. You may need to find some voltage that fail before you can apply the resistance testing of wire harnesses, switches (on and off states), ground connections, etc.

On instruments, Fluke is a good choice. Fluke, Keysight, Tektronix are some of your top electronic suppliers. Many of the other names may be ok or may be garbage. It's best to ask around with others you know. The top companies really know how to measure stuff. And they know how to measure it when the environment is poor (temperature, humidity) or can effect results (close to RF transmitters, emergency communications, even cell phones.

On probes, most of the quality meters come with decent probes. I have a number of the Probemaster hard gold plated probes and they really are great but for normal troubleshooting, just keep your probe tips clean. The benefit of gold can be lost in the noise on a piece of outdoor machinery where on a bench on sensitive circuits, the gold really makes a measurement attain its best accuracy.

On batteries, I've lost many pieces of expensive and in some cases sentimental equipment due to the bleeping alkalines. For my DMMs and any valuable equipment, I now use only Lithium primary (non rechargeable) batteries. Mostly AA but also some 9V and other sizes.

Also in the spirit of the OP's questions (I hope), check out various electronics forums on line. Most will have a beginner spot but in general, you will be treated with respect regardless of where you go. And the knowledge out there is tremendous. Even electronic nerd or geek types have grass, brush and trees to cut

 

[OM617YOTA]

Welcome!

 

[Be Stihl]

I have a fluke t5 600, it has been great and it is really simple to use and it will measure amps.

I have this same meter along with others for more sophisticated circuits, but this meter is fool proof it detects AC or DC volts, measures resistance(ohms), also measures amps without unhooking a circuit( amp clamp). Best meter I’ve found for most electrical issues and very durable.

 

[Okie]

RCcamo in post #26 suggested thinking about a

UNI-T UT210D Digital AC/DC Current Voltage Resistance Capacitance Clamp Meter​

You can find it for about $60
It reads to 200 amps AC or DC Auto ranging by clamp on. (just clamp around the ONE load wire)
This would be a good meter for a novice and not expensive.
A high DC amps clamp on tester is very handy for checking battery charging, battery loads by just clamping around a wire vs having to route the load current direct through the test instrument.

As compared to the Klein CL120 at $80 and only goes to 10 amps DC and the amperage is routed THROUGH the tester and it test leads. This is not a good thing for someone first learning how to use a multimeter. DC current Overloads (OL's) will usually ZAP the tester internals permanently or blow a fuse
where as when using a clamp on tester for current reading a overload is not routed directly through the tester internals and the tester will usually just indicate OL.

Two of the most common things that Zaps a electrical tester internally with permanent damage is having the meter set to ohms or milliamps and touching the probes to volts.
When using a clamp on type tester the OL amps is not directly routed THROUGH any test leads and the instrument.

Next thing that results in Multimeters being ruined is allowing battery corrosion which usually happens when the multimeter is in storage and batteries not removed and due to the instrument not being used often with the batteries still inside. Most late model DMM's will indicate to the Operator a Lo Bat warning and the bats are usually not at the corroded point when the warning first appears but in storage the OP does not see this warning.

Stay Safe and know the hazards of electrical testing. It's not just the electrical shock hazard, there is also the explosion hazard.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I will only,, only,,only be checking 12volt systems, lawn mower, on/off switch on a chainsaw maybe, Is my Polaris ranger battery being charged while running very low tech / low chance of meter destruction risk I would think ?

 

[Okie]

I will only,, only,,only be checking 12volt systems, lawn mower, on/off switch on a chainsaw maybe, Is my Polaris ranger battery being charged while running very low tech / low chance of meter destruction risk I would think ?

Polaris ranger battery being charged while running very low tech

Battery charging testing using multimeters: (not really low tech)
This is one place where a clamp on tester really shines as being user friendly.
Just clamp around either battery cable lead and read the charge amps.

Simply reading only the battery voltage with a multimeter IS NOT a good indicator of a charging system.

You might want to eventually re-search such.

 

[028S038AV]

The poster keeps saying he wants simple. and low cost to replace HF
Own and use many meters.... I still do not have a clamp on meter.

LARGER 120V devices like compressor, electric heaters, HVAC.... would be good to have clamp meter because the AMP draw is in the 20 amp for 120V or more for 220V. For this would like a clamp on meter.... but do not need one and has been 5 decades of use for me.

The clamp meters measure the magnetic flux around the wire with current flow and changes.
I would rather have a std multimeter.... that is all I have and some non contact Voltage little lamp pens
Heck I hardly even use my test light..... maybe 1 every 5 yrs - 10 years or so.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I have 3 Fluke and 1 Siglent precision bench meter. I use them where I need readings I can trust. But for down and dirty quick stuff, I got 2 from Amazon and they work well. The readings are very close with my Fluke meters and I wouldn't be at a big loss if they got damaged or lost. Would recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Mult...=B08MTTX66X&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_13_t&th=1

 

[Jeff Lary]

If my last post seemed ungrateful or rude, I am sorry for that it was not intended to be. I understand more than anyone on this forum how little I understand about testing circuits. However, I also have zero plans to get into any electrical training classes or try to read books about electricity.
If I need to test something and I don't know how I will go to you tube till I can find what I need to know.
We all have specialties in our lives and those of you that have great knowledge about this subject are just trying to pass that knowledge along.
I myself specialize in Highway safety systems mainly Guardrail installs and repairs. I spend my days either installing, repairing or estimating repair and replacement costs to a legal team here where I work. If you have a wreck and damage any of our infrastructure you will get a bill for that damage from me.
My point is I could go waay in depth on some question asked but maybe the questioner does not need to go as deep as I could get into an explanation. I might just muddy his or hers mind with info that he or she would have no intention of ever using. Sometimes people only can digest the end answer, the simple answer if there is one that is. Alright gotta go now have a 400-mile day in front of me just checking damage to 2 of my many roads. Thanks for your help and patience. Jeff

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Good info. I didn't read all the posts, but I expect you to read mine! Ha.

Sounds like the OP found what he wanted.

I was going to throw in that I don't think expensive meters are needed for basic stuff. Maybe start with a cheaper $25 meter, use it, learn, then buy a better one when you know the features you want.

I like the feature that beeps with continuity.

 

[sean donato]

Years ago I had a job where I needed to be able to let my meter hang and walk away to activate the equipment for testing. I ended up buying a fluke with a detachable head. Pretty much ended my days of cheap junk meters. Add in an inductive amp clamp and it's served me well for years. I still have a little blue point branded meter that I keep in my to go bag. It works well enough and is about half the size of my fluke, also doesn't chew through batteries like the fluke does. If I had a redo today, I'd still spend the money on a good meter. It's been invaluable for troubleshooting modern electronics in vehicles and equipment. The detachable face is nice, and I use it often, but I wouldn't nessisarrily spend the extra money on it. Dumb think take 5 AA batteries and they don't last very long.

 

[lone wolf]

I will post this here but if the mods think it should be moved feel free to do so.

I have always struggled with diagnosing any and all electrical issues.
First, I will tell you that the only meter I have is the cheap free HF one. That one failed me last summer, told me my riding tractor was overcharging the battery like 18 to 20 volts when checked by a local small engine guy with a good meter it was right at 13-14 volts. I want to buy a new better quality affordable trustworthy one though and would like to know your suggestions for that. Maybe under $100.00 mainly for use on small 12-volt systems.
Second is there a reference booklet on how to test certain common items that may fail? and what dial settings to use to accomplish that. For instance, how to test to see if a key switch is working correctly or if a coil is functioning as intended, or like last year checking the charging system. I don't want this post to get too wordy as some folks may not even read it so I will stop here.
In a nutshell I have riding mowers chainsaws Kubota farm tractor 4-wheeler etc. Sometimes I need to be able to narrow down an electrical issue so just owning a good meter is not enough I would also like some kind of guide to refer to (FOR BEGINNERS) Thanks for your advice.

Lets see, which test would you like to learn first?

 

[Jeff Lary]

Good info. I didn't read all the posts, but I expect you to read mine! Ha.

Sounds like the OP found what he wanted.

I was going to throw in that I don't think expensive meters are needed for basic stuff. Maybe start with a cheaper $25 meter, use it, learn, then buy a better one when you know the features you want.

I like the feature that beeps with continuity.

yes I would like that too I need to check if mine will beep before I buy it. Because it's beeping important ya know.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Lets see, which test would you like to learn first?

Well to be very honest I don't need it for anything right now...However when I do if you are serious,... I may just look you up!
On occasion I have needed to check continuity through a wire or in my last case I needed to know how many volts were getting to my battery from the stator on my garden tractor. Turns out it was fine but dash volt gauge and my el cheapo HF told me It was getting somewhere over 18volts up to 22volts.
That meter (which I believed in) at that time caused me to buy 2 voltage regulators and a new stator trying to cure the "over voltage". Turns out it needed neither,.. the gauge on the dash went to hell and the meter reading high gave me false info that like I said at that time, last spring I believed in.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

yes I would like that too I need to check if mine will beep before I buy it. Because it's beeping important ya know.

You don't buy for the beep?
Seriously, I like the beep.

 

[user 189850]

Trimmed down:

https://smile.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter/dp/B000OCFFMW

You can actually trim even more, here's the break down: website "smile.amazon.com", product name "Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter", detail-product "dp", and ASIN "B000OCFFMW"... you can remove the product name, e.g. this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000OCFFMW

Now back to the OP's question, everyone has said Fluke is the de facto standard, and I agree. I have one that is at least 25 years old, and is failing. Just did a quick search on Amazon, and there is a model 101 ($44), and 101+ ($75). I haven't done any research on either, but I would think a basic Fluke would be just about better than any CHICOM knock off?

Fluke 101 $43
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE6MIJY
Fluke 101+ $75
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V6BBU6K
Fluke 106 (adds current measurement) $85
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HEAMLCO
Fluke 107 (adds frequency measurement) $102
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HEAMMIC
Fluke 323 Clamp Meter (AC only) $150
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQKIEXY
Of course, one of the answer questions was "country of origin", and those low end Flukes are made in China. So this is the "good" CHICOM authorized knock-offs... designed in the USA, made in China.