yea a while back I read that those batteries had ruined many flashlights from their leaks.
Multimeter use
- Thread starter Jeff Lary
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Thsinde 18B+ Auto And Manual Ranging Review...... Review
https://multimetertools.com/thsinde-18b/Frequently Asked Questions
Thsinde 18B+ seems to be a good multi-meter. Is it a Fluke?We admire this product and give this product 5 stars. Fluke almost has the same features as Thsinde, but there are no business connections between Fluke 18B and Thsinde 18B. Both products are having different looks and different brands.
Conclusion
The multimeter is affordable for home, professional and commercial use. The multimeter is a handy, affordable tester for home and commercial use. However, it works excellent has acceptable test ranges and is accurate. As a result, the multimeter is suitable for testing everything from home electrics to basic electronics appliances, computer systems and HVAC checks. The multimeter has 10 auto-rangings: accurately measures A/C & D/C voltage and current, frequency, resistance, diode and continuity NCV test. We recommend you to buy this all in one product, because of its efficacy and good results.
Fluke what I use and the do make models that would suit most needs that don't break the bank.
SteveSr
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That web site seems like one of t he auto-generated ones designed to earn Amazon affiliate commissions. Of course, everything has a great review!
Go read all of the negative (1 star) reviews on the Amazon website. Meter looks to be a poor Chinese copy of a Fluke 17. The only thing that is worse than not having a meter is having one that can't be trusted. Sort of like your HF one!
This is one of the best postings I have seen on the dozens of groups I have belonged to for many years.
Is there a way it can be made a 'sticky' or archived somewhere on Arboristsite?
The Crenova auto ranging one on Amazon for $26.00 is the one I am looking at. I would post a link tried but the link is about 30 lines long.
I too agree this is a worthwhile thread lots of good information here that would be nice to refer to at a later date. I enjoy tinkering on small engines thus the reason I think I need a Meter. Of all the people I know maybe 2 understand electrical systems enough to know if something is not working. Of those 2 one is the small engine tech I mentioned earlier, and the other is my HVAC/ Electrician.
If you are still reading this, I will try to explain how I know that I need a better multimeter. In as short of a story as I can make is this here we go.
Last spring when I got my 2000 Wheelhorse out to mow the lawn for the season I noticed my voltmeter/ dash gauge was pegged at like 18+ volts. I knew enough that if that was true, I would cook the new NAPA battery I had just installed. Now I also have a Generac stand by home generator. The man that does the yearly maintenance and service is a Kohler tech and owns his own business repairing small engines, so I had gotten to know him and his phone number. I called and explained what was up with my Wheelhorse with a Kohler engine.
I told him that I had checked at the battery with the engine running with my HF meter and yes, it seemed that the tractor was trying to put 19-21volts ( the meter jumped all around) into the battery. He did not know it was being checked by a HF meter at this time. He said that it was likely the voltage regulator that had gone bad and recommended I buy a new one after trying a test at the regulator itself it showed the same reading.
So, I bought a new regulator and it read the same thing as the OEM one, so I bought another regulator, and it too read the same thing ( that's 3 now).
My meter read between 18 and 21 volts or maybe 36? that number now comes to mind too... Cannot remember now. Anyway, I called him back He said although it was rare, but that maybe the Stator had gone bad and had me test that with him on the phone with me while I did it, it was all over the place too, I think like 36 volts up to 60 something, I think.
So, he suggested that I try a new Stator so, I ordered a new one I think it was like $150.00 dollars but again I cannot remember for sure. as you can guess by now that did not solve the issue either. I called him back and explained all of this and he told me he was in my area, right now and he could stop by for a few minutes and look at it, and he stopped by to see for himself. He of course had a better meter and much more knowledge and trust in his test equipment.
Turns out the engine was putting about 14 or 15volts into the battery just like it should be, and my meter was nuts.
The root of the issue had been the dash gauge, it had given up the ghost so,.. between the gauge being bad and my meter being nuts I decided right then I needed a better meter. Thus the reason for this post.
I too agree this is a worthwhile thread lots of good information here that would be nice to refer to at a later date. I enjoy tinkering on small engines thus the reason I think I need a Meter. Of all the people I know maybe 2 understand electrical systems enough to know if something is not working. Of those 2 one is the small engine tech I mentioned earlier, and the other is my HVAC/ Electrician.
If you are still reading this, I will try to explain how I know that I need a better multimeter. In as short of a story as I can make is this here we go.
Last spring when I got my 2000 Wheelhorse out to mow the lawn for the season I noticed my voltmeter/ dash gauge was pegged at like 18+ volts. I knew enough that if that was true, I would cook the new NAPA battery I had just installed. Now I also have a Generac stand by home generator. The man that does the yearly maintenance and service is a Kohler tech and owns his own business repairing small engines, so I had gotten to know him and his phone number. I called and explained what was up with my Wheelhorse with a Kohler engine.
I told him that I had checked at the battery with the engine running with my HF meter and yes, it seemed that the tractor was trying to put 19-21volts ( the meter jumped all around) into the battery. He did not know it was being checked by a HF meter at this time. He said that it was likely the voltage regulator that had gone bad and recommended I buy a new one after trying a test at the regulator itself it showed the same reading.
So, I bought a new regulator and it read the same thing as the OEM one, so I bought another regulator, and it too read the same thing ( that's 3 now).
My meter read between 18 and 21 volts or maybe 36? that number now comes to mind too... Cannot remember now. Anyway, I called him back He said although it was rare, but that maybe the Stator had gone bad and had me test that with him on the phone with me while I did it, it was all over the place too, I think like 36 volts up to 60 something, I think.
So, he suggested that I try a new Stator so, I ordered a new one I think it was like $150.00 dollars but again I cannot remember for sure. as you can guess by now that did not solve the issue either. I called him back and explained all of this and he told me he was in my area, right now and he could stop by for a few minutes and look at it, and he stopped by to see for himself. He of course had a better meter and much more knowledge and trust in his test equipment.
Turns out the engine was putting about 14 or 15volts into the battery just like it should be, and my meter was nuts.
The root of the issue had been the dash gauge, it had given up the ghost so,.. between the gauge being bad and my meter being nuts I decided right then I needed a better meter. Thus the reason for this post.
You can trim down Amazon links.
Look for the "/ref" and trim the "/ref" and everything else after it off. Before the "/ref" is the link to the item. The rest is stuff Amazon adds for tracking purposes. You click on it and Amazon will know they originally provided that link to me, and now other people are using it, so I must have shared it.
Example full link here:
https://smile.amazon.com/Fluke-115-...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Trimmed down:
https://smile.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter/dp/B000OCFFMW
Goes to the same place.
If you're trying to support someone by sharing their Amazon affiliate link, leave all the reference stuff on there, or they won't get credit.
Look for the "/ref" and trim the "/ref" and everything else after it off. Before the "/ref" is the link to the item. The rest is stuff Amazon adds for tracking purposes. You click on it and Amazon will know they originally provided that link to me, and now other people are using it, so I must have shared it.
Example full link here:
https://smile.amazon.com/Fluke-115-...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Trimmed down:
https://smile.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter/dp/B000OCFFMW
Goes to the same place.
If you're trying to support someone by sharing their Amazon affiliate link, leave all the reference stuff on there, or they won't get credit.
Ok, I trimmed it back to multimeter but then figured someone would likely try that link, and I was pretty sure it would not link to anything as I am about as proficient at Link reducing as reading a multimeter.
Now looking back on my last post, It occurs to me that if I spent the long dollar on a good meter back then, I would not have spent the $200.00 plus on parts replacement... food / money for thought hua..
I just now looked up the fluke 87 on Amazon it goes for over $559.00 up to $614.00 sorry folks there is no way I would be able to justify that cash outlay in my mind for how much I would use it. Like I said maybe 10 - 15 minutes a year.
Damn inflation is hurting everyone huh.
I just now looked your recommendation up, it is affordable for certain, but it looks to be for household current uses with no test leads? that I could see anyway. I am not looking to use mine for any household current, I have a great electrician for that kind of work. I just want to test if my four -wheeler battery is getting charged, or if the red wire has continuity sort of thing, I guess.
just re-read your post that my boy is the kind of info I can use ha ha. I have seen that - before and had no idea wth it meant.
Those will work on small engine in DC type stuff and also work on household stuff
You'll be hard pressed to find a meter that doesn't have minimal AC functionality as well, even the free HF meters have it. It'll come in handy some day, even if all you're doing is changing an outlet and want to make sure the circuit really is dead.
Uni-T is a reasonable brand. Leads plug in to the bottom. See the front face, at the bottom there's a COM marking with a line going down, and on the other side a V, ohm symbol, and several others, also with a line going down? Those mark which leads go where. You can also barely see one of the ports in one of the pics.
They plug in the bottom just a regular meter but they work good.
I just went and read the poor reviews on the Cernova? one yea not too much confidence there for me.
Only one person here has mentioned a Klien Brand. That is the brand I thought I would by last summer but why is no one talking about Kline are they not very good? They have a great following in their hand tools I thought.
Only one person here has mentioned a Klien Brand. That is the brand I thought I would by last summer but why is no one talking about Kline are they not very good? They have a great following in their hand tools I thought.
