My bought cord

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Well at least he brought you wood to make up the short. The difference in his stacked mesurement to yours could be 10% +/- since a cord includes air space. So you could get a extra 12.8 cubic feet or be short.So a cord could be 115.2 cubic feet to 140.8. Also the loose measurement here in Ma. is 175 cubic feet (6.5 yards). To caculate measurement I had a construction master calculator now I have a measure master pro for my iphone. I do sell about 120+ cords of wood a year all stacked before delivered. Sometimes your in a hurry and wood is stacked very sloppy so you get more air than you should. We have gotten short complaints in the past and I always go back and measure there stack and make good if need be. Ive seen wood stacked with almost no air space (like a puzzle) which will be less than 128 cubic foot, with no air space I think is more like 90 cubic feet of actual wood. Ive even had a trucker show up at my yard with a 100yd trailer (15 cord full) trying to sell me 20 cords. I did nicely explain to him I would buy load and when he came with would measure trailer and if was less than 20 cord he would be heading back wiht the load. Needless to say Ive never seen him again.

Also around here all wood is suppost to be sold with a receipt that declairs company name, amount of wood, what type of wood. If they dont give a receipt that should be a red flag. You always can get a plate # of vehicle to help identify seller. Beware of fly by night sellers. After storms around here we get a lot of wood pirates. We call them this season firewood since they dont ever seem to get repeat customers.
 
That's from WET WOOD! I'd take Jere39 up on his offer! Perhaps he'd trade a load of your freshly cut wood for some of that nice dry oak?! His offer is a great one!


The wood has dried considerably since I got it. The seller said it was on the ground. The buildup had hardened and no longer was liquid.
 
Temps were in the fifties last week yes?

Wait til we get cold weather, that drip will be gone.. Even seasoned wood will ooze when you have the air dampened back.
 
Im going to need to study up, I don't think I've been running it hot enough. I read a suggestion in the owners manual that it should be running around 500*. I guess there's some sort of thermometer I can set on the top? Any suggestions? Will an IR therm work?
 
Smokee the stove will show you when it's running hot enough, you can't miss the reburn kicking in from the tubes over the fire. Your right on operating temp, these things are a different animal compared to older stoves and they need to burn hotter.

The fun part is, they will burn hotter and much longer on a fuel load once you get the burning cycle down.
 
Here is the thing: where I sell firewood very few have a firebox that can except a 24” log.
For that reason I try to cut my wood to around 20” and my stacks are 4’x16’x20”
And technically it’s not a full cord. But the problem is, it takes just as much work and fuel and wear and tear to cut and split 20” pieces as it does to cut and split a 24” piece.
Therefore I charge the same for a 20” cord as I would a 24” cord.

Same goes with a 16” cord, my 16” cords are not the same as a 20” or a 24” cord. In a 16” cord you get 3 rows instead of the 2 8’ rows in a 20” or 24” cord. But the price in a 16” cord is higher then the price on a 20/24. More splitting is more work and my work is worth money, just like anyone else.

I explain this to my customers and they have no problem with it. and I think its because I’m honest about it and when I explain the reason why, they all seem to understand.

I do have some 24” cords for those that can use it, but out of 200+ cords sold in the last 2 years, I have only had about 3 people want 24” wood.

Woods is cheap and I could care less if the pieces are 24” or not. The amount of work involved is the same, so I price accordingly.

Now if you asked for 24” pieces and you got 18/20 then you were shorted.
If the seller told you the pieces were shouter then 24” and said the stack was 4x16 then you as a buyer should know the deference.

Buyer beware, applies to wood just like anything else. Know your product and make sure you have the facts so you can make a sound decision.

So in other words you’re not just paying for the wood, you’re also paying for the labor to process it.

If it takes me 1 hour to split 1 cord of 24’ pieces, (2 rows of 24” pieces 4’x4x8’. Then it would take 1 ½ hours to process 3 rows of 16” pieces to make a 4x4x8 stack.

Both are full cords but one took longer to process then the other. So you have to price according to the work plus the amount of wood.

It’s not my fault you have a small firebox, shorter wood takes more work. You wouldn’t do half again the work for the same money? So why would you think I would?
 
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sb47 makes a good point: the firewood description should include both the total volume and the size of the individual pieces.

IMHO, anything offered for sale that the buyer cannot see beforehand should be described in standardized terms: minimum volume, average size of pieces, etc. If I can see something before I buy it, then the burden should be on my shoulders to accurately determine if I want to buy it or not.
 
Here is the thing: where I sell firewood very few have a firebox that can except a 24” log.
For that reason I try to cut my wood to around 20” and my stacks are 4’x16’x20”
And technically it’s not a full cord. But the problem is, it takes just as much work and fuel and wear and tear to cut and split 20” pieces as it does to cut and split a 24” piece.
Therefore I charge the same for a 20” cord as I would a 24” cord.

Same goes with a 16” cord, my 16” cords are not the same as a 20” or a 24” cord. In a 16” cord you get 3 rows instead of the 2 8’ rows in a 20” or 24” cord. But the price in a 16” cord is higher then the price on a 20/24. More splitting is more work and my work is worth money, just like anyone else.

I explain this to my customers and they have no problem with it. and I think its because I’m honest about it and when I explain the reason why, they all seem to understand.

I do have some 24” cords for those that can use it, but out of 200+ cords sold in the last 2 years, I have only had about 3 people want 24” wood.

Woods is cheap and I could care less if the pieces are 24” or not. The amount of work involved is the same, so I price accordingly.

Now if you asked for 24” pieces and you got 18/20 then you were shorted.
If the seller told you the pieces were shouter then 24” and said the stack was 4x16 then you as a buyer should know the deference.

Buyer beware, applies to wood just like anything else. Know your product and make sure you have the facts so you can make a sound decision.

So in other words you’re not just paying for the wood, you’re also paying for the labor to process it.

If it takes me 1 hour to split 1 cord of 24’ pieces, (2 rows of 24” pieces 4’x4x8’. Then it would take 1 ½ hours to process 3 rows of 16” pieces to make a 4x4x8 stack.

Both are full cords but one took longer to process then the other. So you have to price according to the work plus the amount of wood.

It’s not my fault you have a small firebox, shorter wood takes more work. You wouldn’t do half again the work for the same money? So why would you think I would?

This pretty much sums it up for firewood we process.\

If I could buy good consistent 20 cord loads of 16" oak I'll stop making firewood for sale and become a distributor only. I sell firewood and you will always get a cord or more but you will pay for it. I'll knock off 40 a cord for 24" and larger split oak firewood. It take a full open face cord of cuts and splits to make it all around 16" as opposed to cutting 24's, nuf said.

The guy stiffed ya, he's a #### head and gave you the left over wet dirty **** wood off the bottom of the pile that went to the regular customers. ####-um stick it to him :) :msp_biggrin:
 
sb47, that's exactly the way I would sell wood. Give them the specs and take it or leave it. If you wanna see the wood before you pay for it then fine jump in your car and drive to my house and see the pile, don't expect me to drive to your house for free.

Yep: I have my wood stacked in measured stacks so you can see and measure if you like.
If you don’t like what you see, move on and find somewhere else to buy your wood.

I like people that call wanting a cord of wood delivered for a pickup price.
Then they want to balk at a stacking fee.
I charge a basic charge of $30.00 to deliver if you live within 30 miles.
It doesn’t mater if I have one stick of wood or a whole cord. If you live farther then that I charge by the mile.
I’ll stack next to the driveway, right form the trailer for no charge. If I have to wheelbarrow it in the back yard and stack, there is a $25.00 fee.
People need to understand that my time and labor is worth money, just like theirs is.
The thirty dollars for delivery basically just covers my gas. They don’t understand it takes me 30 minuets to load, then an hour drive to there house, another 30 minuets to an hour to unload and stack, plus the hour drive back to the yard, for a total 3 to 4 hours of my time.
55 dollars divided into 4 hours is $13.75 an hour. Minus wear and tear on my truck.
Witch equates to about 10 dollars an hour for my time.
Most the people I deliver to wouldn’t even get out of bed for that kind of money, so I have no problem charging them my price.

I’ve had people call and not like my price. I politely tell them if they change there mind I’ll be here. Most call back after they shop around and find I’m very competitive. If not cheaper then everyone else.

They also wait, knowing there’s a cold front coming, till it’s 30 degrees’ before they call and they want it now.

I run across all kinds.
 
Yea he pretty much gave a #### load , a lot of these guys push that wood around with a loader often in mud and anything else that has leaked outta a machine or truck on the ground , I never machine load wood , and sell people my dirt ! I don't measure loads either I sell it by the load sometimes its more sometimes its less , you agree to that when I am asked to deliver a load . Honestly I wouldn't burn that crap in a metal drum to keep me warm while I split good wood .
 
Live and learn. He's bringing me the rest tomorrow and said he was going to hand load it so I don't have all the filth leftover. Take another look at the pic... I have years of freshly cut, beautiful cherry seasoning. I got a little zealous and split a piece to see what the moisture was and it's too high, as I was expecting. Next year and for another few years I'll burn what was growing on the property behind my house. Yes, I got it all. A dozen or so 35 year old cherry trees. Absolutely a work of art (so to speak) in cut, split form. Sweet as honey burning too.

What was bought has dried well too. I covered it up for a sprinkle the other day then uncovered it to dry. It's actually not that bad of wood...just a little short on the qty. hopefully, it's my last paid wood for a few years.

Thanks for all the feedback, fellas! Good bunch we got here! :rock:
 
He right after it gets run over with a loader it is time to leave it to rot. Just nasty filthy stuff to deal with. I burn the half rotten parts from bad tree sections in the barrel while I'm out in the cold weather doing wood. Trust me you don't need holes in the barrel while feeding it Cheetoos :)
 
First day into running it hotter and I can see a huge difference. The fans are kicking on a lot more and the glass buildup's clearing up.
 
They also wait, knowing there’s a cold front coming, till it’s 30 degrees’ before they call and they want it now.

I run across all kinds.

Looks like the price should go up. Simple supply, demand, and freezing your sack off.:eek2:
 

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