My first shot at tuning by ear and blew it....

[Adam_MA]

Is there a way on AS to save threads you want to have quick access to?

Thanks,
Chris

I just added a folder to my browsers Favorites for "Arboristsite Links", then just save a link to the post or thread I want to keep.

 

[bcsizemo]

FWIW, I could hear the 4 stroking sound much better when I had ear plugs in as compared to muffs.

Kind of like it's farting instead of a smooth cycle.

 

[LazyJ]

A healthy muffler mod makes high speed burble easy to hear

 

[bcsizemo]

A healthy muffler mod makes high speed burble easy to hear

Yeah is an Echo CS-440 with muffler mod....so it's pretty much required to have hearing protection to even hear the 4 stroke (at least if you are using it because you are so close.)

I might have it off some, but I know it's on the richer side of life. Besides it's an Echo it just keeps puttering along.

 

[cnice_37]

The low jet circuit of the carb handles 80% of the engine load including transition which is off idle to high rpm. The low side jet is always closest to the cylinder.

The high jet circuit handles only one thing and that is the supplemental fuel needs of high rpm power. The high jet is always the furthest from the cylinder.

Set each jet at 1 and 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Turn the jets counter clockwise or 'out' to add fuel and clockwise or 'in' to take away fuel. The 1 and 1/2 setting will allow you to start the engine. Once the engine is running, rev it a little to warm it up and give it a couple of minutes of run time for the castings to come up to temp.

When you feel its warmed up, put your screwdriver into the low jet and adjust for highest idle rpm. Literally turn the low jet in and out until you hit the highest idle rpm without touching the throttle. Stop at the highest rpm. Now hit the throttle to see if there happens to be a bog off idle. If there happens to be a bog off idle, open the low jet a little at a time ccw untill the bog disappears. Carbuerated engines need a little more fuel on the low side for good transition. You should end up having a good strong idle and transition now without any hesitation.

Now on to the high side. You want a distinct miss or four stroke when no load is on the engine with the bar and chain attached at high 'no load' rpm. Go ahead and open the high jet until you get a good miss at top rpm with your finger depressing the throttle to full. You will know when you have it too rich because the engine will not scream and will miss. Now find a piece of wood and slowly lean the high jet a little at a time turning it in or cw until the high speed miss ends as soon as you touch the wood with the chain placing a load on the engine.

When in tune the high speed miss should be present at top rpm when not cutting and end as soon as the chain touches the wood.

Final thing to set is the idle speed. This is the set screw which controls how far open the butterfly sits in the throttle bore. Adjust it to your liking, just dont set it so high as to allow the chain to move when the saw is sitting on the ground idleing around your feet.

Bravo sir, bravo. That is the clearest, most concise explanation I have ever come across. I'll send some rep for that if I can figure out this new forum.

 

[wdfccf73]

:agree2:

Thank you for taking the time to post that.
Chris

 

[merc_man]

limitting caps?

just wondering what the limiting caps are?

 

[rooster68]

hello,i have a muffler modded 036 pro, i just purchased a fast tach for tuning purposes,i will tune it in the wood, then use my tach to see the rpms?my max saw rpms are13,500, my question is with a muffler modded saw when i tune it and its sounding correct 4 stroking 2stroking etc.. what should i do if my tach shows 13,700?should i put it back down to 13,500 using the tach? even though it might 4 stroke more than needed,ive read on here modded saws the tach doesnt always have the final say..?

 

[oscar4883]

I'd leave it. Going to turn higher rpm's with the mod and the spec has a plus/minus to it of 1000rpm IIRC.

 

[beavis331]

hello,i have a muffler modded 036 pro, i just purchased a fast tach for tuning purposes,i will tune it in the wood, then use my tach to see the rpms?my max saw rpms are13,500, my question is with a muffler modded saw when i tune it and its sounding correct 4 stroking 2stroking etc.. what should i do if my tach shows 13,700?should i put it back down to 13,500 using the tach? even though it might 4 stroke more than needed,ive read on here modded saws the tach doesnt always have the final say..?

I would say as long as you are getting the 4 stroking 200 rpms aren't going to matter. I would be interested in knowing how fast your 036 really is. I have an 038 that I may do a muffler mod on.

P.S. Welcome to AS. You are just up the road from me.

 

[wdfccf73]

Here they are.... My saws....

Here is my 19 year old Stihl 025 and my almost one year old MS310

 

[jerrycmorrow]

chris, that's a clean saw for 19 years old. you gonna do a muffler mod? or already done it? did you retune your saws?

 

[J.W Younger]

Us arkys have unusual weather.I have a meter that measured the density altitude and have seen it go from sea level too 2000ft over the course of a weekend.
Thats why I don't belive dealer setup is all that important when you consider all the other variables that go along with it.Even cyl temp makes a big difference and a couple of min idling or reving is not gonna cut it before making final adjustments.I tend too run my stuff on the ragged edge but advise others too miss on the rich side or live with the consequences.
Avgas is consistant and takes one of the variables out of it but unless you carry a pocket screwdriver its best too stay richer than optimum and a little 4stroking in the cut is better and faster in the long run than a scored cylinder.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Us arkys have unusual weather.I have a meter that measured the density altitude and have seen it go from sea level too 2000ft over the course of a weekend.
Thats why I don't belive dealer setup is all that important when you consider all the other variables that go along with it.Even cyl temp makes a big difference and a couple of min idling or reving is not gonna cut it before making final adjustments.I tend too run my stuff on the ragged edge but advise others too miss on the rich side or live with the consequences.
Avgas is consistant and takes one of the variables out of it but unless you carry a pocket screwdriver its best too stay richer than optimum and a little 4stroking in the cut is better and faster in the long run than a scored cylinder.

i always run richer on purpose just to keep the heat down and cause i don't have a meter to set it with.