My first slabs are coming out ok (pic), but I need basic advise...

[edrrt]

I got a 395 and a 48" Alaskan mill.
Milling California Bay. Fairly hard stuff.
36" ripping chain.

1) The saw seems to struggle more than I would have thought. Should I be lighter and run higher RPM, or apply more pressure and let it slow. Does one produce better results or is one harder on the saw? Does the saw need cooling time in cuts?

2) Is a skip chain a better idea? Let the saw run faster?

3) Does a 48" mill take a 52" bar to run the width of the mill. Can I run this on a 395 with a skip chain?

4) When to slab. Sould you cut it right away for less chance of cracking?

5) How soon does it need to be properly stacked. Is it ok after slabbing to leave the 3.5" slabs in the field roughly stacked on scraps for a week until I can get them back to a barn or will they start warping and cracking that fast?

6) Sealing ends. It seems like people love to talk about it online but experienced people post it makes no difference. Wide stickers near the ends do the same thing. How important is it to seal?

7) Sticker stains. How relivent is this. Won't it sand out and be superficial. What are good stickers?

8) How thick is good. Does thicker mean less cracking and warping?

9) How do these look and any advise for a newbie?

Thank you arboristsite sages.

 

[BobL]

1) The saw seems to struggle more than I would have thought. Should I be lighter and run higher RPM, or apply more pressure and let it slow. Does one produce better results or is one harder on the saw? Does the saw need cooling time in cuts?

Post as close up a side on photo of some cutters as you can - I'll give you thin diagnosis.

2) Is a skip chain a better idea? Let the saw run faster?

Opions vary. I haven't bothered with Skip chain since 2008 - I buy rolls of stock chain and file back to 10º over successive sharpening.

3) Does a 48" mill take a 52" bar to run the width of the mill. Can I run this on a 395 with a skip chain?

You can run any length bar in most mills but the max width of cut is determined by the mill. A 52" bar should be OK with a 395 in your (softish) woods..

4) When to slab. Sould you cut it right away for less chance of cracking?

Varies between species. Minimal cracking is obtained by sawing thick initially and then resawing to size later when its drier. However it takes longer to dry this way.

5) How soon does it need to be properly stacked. Is it ok after slabbing to leave the 3.5" slabs in the field roughly stacked on scraps for a week until I can get them back to a barn or will they start warping and cracking that fast?

I try to get mine sticker and stacked ASAP.

6) Sealing ends. It seems like people love to talk about it online but experienced people post it makes no difference. Wide stickers near the ends do the same thing. How important is it to seal?

If the wood is very green and you cut thin then sealing ends is worth it.
Thicker stuff less so - it depends if you want to retain the whole length of the dust wood.

7) Sticker stains. How relivent is this. Won't it sand out and be superficial. What are good stickers?

Anything dry is OK, Same as the wood you cut will minimise stains.

8) How thick is good. Does thicker mean less cracking and warping?

Thicker is better but proper stickering and storage is more important

9) How do these look and any advise for a newbie?

I got an aching back, shoulders and arms just looking at your stance.
If you can't set up a remote throttle at least get yourself a zip tip that you can slip over the trigger.
Then use the wrap handle to apply pressure or a second handle that you can put onto the mill rail nearest your left hand..
I lean on the wrap handle with my thigh - arms and shoulders are under very little pressure - if chain is set up right and log is on a slope the saw should pull itself into the cut

 

[BlackCoffin]

There’s a sweet spot for the saw you’ll find, it’s definitely higher in the rpm range. You want to apply enough pressure to get a load on the saw but not big it down. You’ll find it it cut the smoothest and fastest in that sweet spot. I’ve found bogging down and messing in that lower rpm range it loads the saw and chain up and it vibrates and dances around more and leaves a rougher cut.

 

[chunky]

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[thenne1713]

1) Higher RPM is better; bogging/loading causes cylinder temp to go straight up; IDLE FOR COOLING AT END BEFORE SHUTDOWN 30-120 SECONDS; 2) SKIP is Good because= fewer cutter in the wood= MORE HP per cutter in the wood/= better chip removal; Just narrowing pairs of cutters can help (leave every 3rd cutter full width, kinda the Granberg style Idea, which really comes back to two-man CROSSCUT saw theory on "scoring cutters and rakers" 4) When to mill: I like to SEAL before milling, I find it easier/ cleaner to seal the day before. END SEALING is best defense against cracking; 5) Loose stacked without stickers will give largestLOSS due to twisting, mold (white or black) and cracking, but esp, if NOT sealed; 9) TIPS: Winch using paracord/ mason twine (not steel cable) to pull the mill will do the most to relieve your (back strain= backache); amazing difference how much better at 1/2-day, day end. Good Luck (TerryH)