My first try at porting.

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czar800

czar800

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My first try at porting, Thanks to wampum and his western pa gtg and all the other guys there i went home and and started porting my old 024. I have never ported a saw before so i stayed safe. (so i think i did)



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MechanicMatt

MechanicMatt

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Good for you, there is only one way to learn and that is to try. Its a bit of a STEP to take. You are risking killing a perfectly good cylinder but hey there are always casualties in war right?? I found on my 50 that if you do a little put it in wood check results, do a little more put it in wood check results. You know what I mean, I got the strip down of that lil husky down to 2 minutes. Good Luck
 
rooster68

rooster68

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I just completed my first porting of a saw this week also,so from one beginner to another,measure twice-grind once,I ended up using a file more than my dremel, i didnt want to over due anything, i ported mine to 60% of bore diameter and am satisfied.good luck and go slow
 
little possum

little possum

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Doesnt look to bad, try a little more light with the pics next time.

You may could square up the ports a little more, for more surface area. But Im no expert, so take what I say as a grain of salt :cheers:
 
MechanicMatt

MechanicMatt

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I like how after you made the video in the "feel good soft wood" you decided to try it out in some real wood. Pine is great for making you feel like your saw is King of the Woods. But burry your saw in some real hard wood and then the truth comes out.
 
epicklein22
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Looks better than a stock 024 for sure. How do you like it now? My buddy ported his 024. Maybe I can get a video of it.

Running well ported saws is always a treat. I'm gonna go inside a few of my saws as well. Definitely going through my 350 again. Needs more torque!
 
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czar800

czar800

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Looks better than a stock 024 for sure. How do you like it now? My buddy ported his 024. Maybe I can get a video of it.

Running well ported saws is always a treat. I'm gonna go inside a few of my saws as well. Definitely going through my 350 again. Needs more torque!


the saw was not running before in worked on it (had a cracked impulse hose) It had been hid under the work bench for a few years. It will out run my stock 026. I need to time it and my 026.
 
czar800

czar800

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Next step is to measure piston skits and port width. ( should i get it to ? ) and the next is to learn the degree wheel. I have been reading, but still will have to have some help. The saw has 150lb of compression, no base gasket.




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AUSSIE1

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150 psi sounds low for no base gasket so you won't be able to increase the duration/raise the exhaust. By going squarer in the corners you gain more area without loosing compression, as Zach said. You can have straight vertical walls as long as you keep your roof curvature. Your floor can be flatter as long as it doesn't clear the skirt but don't lower it.

Might pay to check your ring gap.

With your wheel, get your piston at the top as best you can by eye, then place a pointer at TDC of your wheel. turn the wheel a bit, say quarter of a turn and insert a stopper. Turn in each direction recording the reading. You know when you have true TDC when the numbers read the same from side to side.
 
czar800

czar800

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thanks all for the help!

I have been reading and searching around a lot, so I degreed the saw today and got a new compression reading (176-178psi) Squish about .016 Sorry pic. are bad from my cell. This saw is only a gtg saw not going to be a cut run all day saw.


atdc exhaust opens 97*
atbc exhaust closes 105*

atdc intake closes 70*
atdc intake opens 72*

atdc transfer opens 130*
atdc transfer closes 130*

What do you all think of these numbers? Feed back please!

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Intake

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Exhaust

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Intake

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Exhaust

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Exhaust from plug


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AUSSIE1

AUSSIE1

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166 is fine for a GTG saw or for roughly up to two foot wood.

Still looks like your wheel isn't centred.

Read your exhaust after top dead centre.

Trans after top dead centre.

Inlet after bottom dead centre.

Don't worry about closing figures.

Give you an example: if your wheel is perfectly centred and your Ex opens at 97° ATDC, it will close 97° BTDC.

97 + 97 = 194. Subtract 194 from 1 full rotation (360°) leaves you with 166°. This is what my 365BB is at.

Get your ports squarer at the sides as you are missing out on some area.
 
AUSSIE1

AUSSIE1

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Sorry for some silly reason I was thinking this was a 372.

166° might be a little hefty for an 024 Maybe someone can verify.

Get your wheel centred and try the numbers again.

Use your eye to watch for when the port opens. Some like to use a torch but I find you end up with different numbers.

Your doing a good job and having a go.
 
czar800

czar800

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Thank for the help. Going to find a flywheel puller to aid in getting my wheel centred. Will post new numbers when i can trust the wheel. I just put the saw back together and started it. The saw seems cold blooded and starved for fuel off idle. going to tune it in the morning. I would like to keep going back in and get this little saw as hot as I can (I got a lot to learn) Bigger carb, someday maybe a pipe.
 
blsnelling
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atdc exhaust opens 97*
atbc exhaust closes 105*

atdc intake closes 70*
atdc intake opens 72*

atdc transfer opens 130*
atdc transfer closes 130*

The saw sounds and looks good. It's definately too lean though. I don't hear any 4-stroking at all out of the cut.

You port timing numbers show that you didn't not correctly find TDC. When you have it right, the open and close number will be the same.
 
czar800

czar800

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do you guys use a flywheel puller to hold you degree wheels? I want to take this saw to the edge, with a muffler and stock carb. for now. where should i not go? degree wise.
 
czar800

czar800

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Thanks for the help, I got a flywheel puller and run the numbers


Exhaust 97
intake 73
transfer 130

What do you think?

Take the intake to 70?
73+73=146 360- 146= 214
70+70=140 360- 140=220
 
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