My Second Attempt Didn't Go As Well

[Cannon51]

I went and worked on a walnut tree Saturday afternoon. After milling the ceder I was disappointed at how slow the walnut project went. I started out using the homelite XL-12 because it had a new 20 bar and new Oregon 72V chain on it. It wouldn't reach all the way through the log and the chain was only making fine sawdust. I thought I would never get the first 7 ft cut finished. After the first cut I decided to roll the log and reattach the guide on the sawn surface so the bar would reach through the log. I decided to put the milling attachment on the 60cc Craftsman/Roper because it had sawn so well on the ceder and the 18" bar would now reach through. The 325 Woodland Pro did saw faster than the Oregon 72V but still much slower than in the ceder. I did get one cant cut and was working on the side slabs when the attachment slipped on the bar and dulled the chain. The "Lumber Maker " attaches by tightening a yoke on the bar with 3 allen screws. I could never get it as tight as I wanted because after tightening one screw the other 2 would be loose, I was just spreading the yoke. At that I had it to where I could load everything except the largest slab so I just sawed it in two. Should I have removed the walnut bark with a draw knife before starting?
Cannon

 

[gemniii]

I started out using the homelite XL-12 because it had a new 20 bar and new Oregon 72V chain on it. It wouldn't reach all the way through the log and the chain was only making fine sawdust.

Sounds like an underpowered saw to pull a 20" low-pro chain thru walnut.

I thought I would never get the first 7 ft cut finished. After the first cut I decided to roll the log and reattach the guide on the sawn surface so the bar would reach through the log. I decided to put the milling attachment on the 60cc Craftsman/Roper because it had sawn so well on the ceder and the 18" bar would now reach through. The 325 Woodland Pro did saw faster than the Oregon 72V but still much slower than in the ceder.

How old was the walnut compared to the cedar? Dryer wood is harder.
But still an underpowered saw for a full 18" cut.

Note how much chain contact you had in the cedar vs burying it in the walnut.
MORE POWER!!

 

[toddstreeservic]

you needz a bigger saw!!!

 

[BobL]

The "Lumber Maker " attaches by tightening a yoke on the bar with 3 allen screws. I could never get it as tight as I wanted because after tightening one screw the other 2 would be loose, I was just spreading the yoke.

Yeah - the design of these things is pretty ordinary. The way to solve this is to drill a hole right through the bar and replace one of the allen screw with a bolt that reaches and goes through the bar. Make sure the bolt is long enough so that you can add a locking nut.

Removing the bark is a good idea.

Don't forget walnut is between 1.5 to 3 times harder than cedar so what you are experiencing is to be expected with 50 - 60 cc saws - just be thankful you didn't try some hickory or some aussie hardwood.

You need to keep the chain extra sharp on small saws and sometimes chains are not that sharp out of the box and are worth at least touching up

 

[Cannon51]

Both saws are small for milling, no question about that. The XL-12 never really bogged, the Oragon 72V just never got any bite ripping but cross cut fine. The craftsman did bog. This was the butt cut and I still have two smaller sections to mill but I am to old to invest big money in a milling saw. We all dream of finding an 80cc saw at a yard sale for $50 that just needs a plug but unless that happens I'll have to use what I got. The walnut is still pretty wet.
Cannon

 

[Cannon51]

Thanks Bob
Your reply came in while I was typing (slowly) the other post. Should the yoke be tapped or just drilled through?
Cannon

 

[BobL]

. . . . . l but I am to old to invest big money in a milling saw.

No you're not - I'm 5 years older than you and I didn't buy my first big saw till 3 years ago! Now I have 3 big saws and 3 mills!

 

[BobL]

Thanks Bob
Your reply came in while I was typing (slowly) the other post. Should the yoke be tapped or just drilled through?
Cannon

Hi Cannon,

I presume it's the model that looks like this?

If it were me (and I'm the full belt and braces kinda guy) I would remove the middle bolt altogether and drill out the other two holes slightly oversize right through the threaded (front side) part of the yoke, the bar and the other side of the yolk. Then I would use washers to pack out the gap between the yoke and the bar and put bolts all the way thru the font part of the yoke, the washers, the bar and the other side of the yoke. This way the bar is held in two places and also held in compression so it won't rattle and it will never turn and hit the chain.

The bar will be quite hard to drill. If you need advice about how to do that then feel free to ask or do a search for "drilling a chainsaw bar".

I do have one concern about all this and that is how close the holes in the bar will be to the bottom of the bar groove. If the holes are closer than 1/2" , I probably wouldn't drill the bar.


Cheers

 

[rarefish383]

Bob's right about drilling at least two holes, of course. I have that same chintzy model and don't want to drill one of my old original bars, so I keep tightening the thing one bolt at a time till it looks like it will snap. Then when I take it off I have to loosen them a little at a time. If you take 2 out with out letting the tension off you will have a real hard tie gettin the last one out, Joe.

 

[BobL]

Bob's right about drilling at least one hole of course.

You really need to drill two holes otherwise the bar can still turn.

 

[woodsrunner]

Should I have removed the walnut bark with a draw knife before starting?
Cannon

Dirty bark will dull your chain in no time! Bark can be full of little rocks and mud and sand.

I find removing the bark to be a PITA, especially if the sap isn't up or the log has been cut for awhile. I use a pressure washer on the log to remove sand, dirt and rock. Works really well IMO.

I really would suggest looking for a bigger saw. My suggestion is look for a used saw that may need some basic repair. I just bought a 395 that only needed a new piston. Everything else was fine. Cost $125.00. When I went to my local Husky dealer to order the piston, he had a 394 in the same condition I could have bought for about the same money.
Good luck!

Scott

 

[rarefish383]

You really need to drill two holes otherwise the bar can still turn.

What do mean Bob, I said 2 holes, see. I love that edit button, Joe.

 

[BobL]

What do mean Bob, I said 2 holes, see. I love that edit button, Joe.

Yeah but I quoted you first - of course I can also edit that too!

 

[mtngun]

The "Lumber Maker " attaches by tightening a yoke on the bar with 3 allen screws. I could never get it as tight as I wanted because after tightening one screw the other 2 would be loose, I was just spreading the yoke.

Your experience with that mill design is the same as mine and just about everyone else.

That's why I recently shelled out for the Granberg mini-mill. The Granberg bar clamp is a much better design.

72V is "safety" chain and as you discovered, safety chain sucks.

Nice boards, though.

 

[Cannon51]

Hi Cannon,

I presume it's the model that looks like this?

If it were me (and I'm the full belt and braces kinda guy) I would remove the middle bolt altogether and drill out the other two holes slightly oversize right through the threaded (front side) part of the yoke, the bar and the other side of the yolk. Then I would use washers to pack out the gap between the yoke and the bar and put bolts all the way thru the font part of the yoke, the washers, the bar and the other side of the yoke. This way the bar is held in two places and also held in compression so it won't rattle and it will never turn and hit the chain.

The bar will be quite hard to drill. If you need advice about how to do that then feel free to ask or do a search for "drilling a chainsaw bar".

I do have one concern about all this and that is how close the holes in the bar will be to the bottom of the bar groove. If the holes are closer than 1/2" , I probably wouldn't drill the bar.


Cheers

Yes except mine is black and has "Made in China" stamped on it . I got it at Harbor Freight for $15 so the yoke on it may be even weaker. I have a drill press so drilling the bar would not be a problem. Five years older, you must be a lot tougher than I am.
Cannon

 

[BlueRider]

We all dream of finding an 80cc saw at a yard sale for $50 that just needs a plug but unless that happens I'll have to use what I got.
Cannon

The last time I was out milling my friend struck up a conversation with some guy that stoped to watch. a h=alf hour later they guy returns and gives an 046 to my friend. It even had a new plug,though it diod need a new air filter.

Even if you have to pay good money for a big saw it can still be a worth wwhile investment if you already have an interest in woodworking.

 

[BobL]

Yes except mine is black and has "Made in China" stamped on it . I got it at Harbor Freight for $15 so the yoke on it may be even weaker.

Oh no - its the dreaded HF model - that explains a lot.

I have a drill press so drilling the bar would not be a problem.

Excellent

Five years older, you must be a lot tougher than I am.
Cannon

Or more foolish?

 

[jdrum]

it's that aussi beer you got to be tough to drink it. it makes ours taste like week lemonade. been there, drank there, and wish i could go back.

jim