Napa 30 micron filter 1553, Xtreme Tractor Fluid, Is 10 micron less flow?

[cascadejack]

Just wondering if switching to a NAPA 1553 by mistake, (they sold me the wrong filter and I didn't catch it until after I did a complete flush and fluid change) might increase the oil flow on my logsplitter, or switching fluid viscosity? (I think I went from 10W to about a 20w universal) NAPA 1551 is a 10 micron filter by the way.

Details below:

I am not sure what was in there before but from all I can gather a Brave Logsplitter is supposed to have 10W Hydraulic Fluid or 30W (ISo32, ISO46). I found a good deal on "Xtreme Universal Tractor and Hydraulic Fluid) and it is SAE 20W, I found the data sheets on it. (Yellow 5g bucket)

So my first question is, most of the time it will be above freezing in my area, (Seattle general area, but in the Mountains), and I thought this would work in my area? If anyone knows of a cold weather additive I would appreciate it. (I read somewhere to put a couple teaspoons of Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank?)

I followed the instructions to drain the oil from Brave Owners Manual, not the exact splitter but very similar. It said to use Uninversal Hydraulic Fluid or Dextron 3 ATF, and NOT to mix them!!! I topped it off with ATF by mistake but then I drained and flushed everything, and replaced the filter. I used almost 5 gallons of "economy brand" hydraulic fluid, (Xtreme is made in Arkansas by Cross distributors, sold at tractor outlets, farm stores I got it for 35$/5g).

The procedure was 1) Disconnect return line from pump to filter inlet and place in drain pan, remove spark plug, and hold lever while pulling starter cord until pump is fully extended. (This removed about 1 1/2 gallons of old fluid!)
2) Filled Tank 3)Change Filter, (I think it was supposed to be a 1551 10 micron filter, not 1553, 30 microns- OOPS!)
4)move lever to retract position and pull starter cord, still draining cylinder on return stroke. (more fluid draining)

At this point I started to use up all my 5 gallons of new fluid and about 3/4 way through the return stroke the fluid looked pretty good, pretty much clear brand new fluid. So I stopped draining and re-connected the filter line, (return line) and then I cycled cylinder completely in until it stopped. I have about 4 gallons of old fluid, and almost an empty 5g bucket. I think it took almost 4g to fill this system. (16gpm 2 stage barnes pump, came stock with 8hp motor, 4-4.5" cylinder x 24" a big cylinder) (The old fluid was really milky and dirty by the way, not clear at all)

I think that is step 5 too, just recheck the fluid level in tank, then pulled cord again until cylinder was fully extended again. (This is what the owner's manual says to do)

Then I started up engine, (replaced spark plug, etc) and cycled the pump a few times and split a small log no problem.

Question is, it seems to surge when I pull the lever to extend or retract the cylinder, maybe it is just air in the system, like I was told earlier in a older thread I posted. I am wondering about this 30 micron filter, and I may be "splitting hairs", (pun intended :msp_biggrin so that is why I am asking. It seems most splitters use a 10 micron filter, and I just put this brand new 30 micron filter on there. And some older splitters did not even have a filter at all! (Some old brave splitters)

So, should I keep it on there? I don't think my unit has a bleeder valve on it, maybe I am incorrect, but this is what the Brave owners manual said to do, to the letter. After the flush and refill cycle the cylinder, then recheck fluid level, check -> everything seems good.

I suppose it could be the lighter weight fluid but ATF Dextron III is really light, and that is red in color and I know the old fluid was not red. I think it was a higher grade tractor fluid as the guy I bought my splitter from also had a tractor that we loaded the splitter into my pickup truck with. (A ford I think) (I bought this for about 350$ as a "repair project" in 2008.)

Maybe it was just plain old tractor fluid. This splitter has had a lot of of work done to it now, replaced the 8hp motor with an 11 HP, (same kind of motor BS STD, older engine I think this is a 80's or early 90's motor), had to change the mounting bracket as new motor had a shorter shaft, (Northern tool part 3033 worked great on 2 7/8" shaft)
Complete fluid and filter change, fixed leaky tires, works like a champ now!

However hoses are moving when I pull the lever, I do not recall seeing this before but maybe I was too busy splitting logs to notice. Is that from air in the system perhaps? I looked in the tank and it appeared to have some air bubbles in there, very small ones, kind of milky but still clear if I test some of the fluid.

I am hoping it is just air, and I can get by with the 30 micron filter. My only thought is it would have slightly more flow than the 10 micron, and that could be why hoses are moving just a bit.

Or air still in there from all the draining, and filter changing, etc....

I am going to split a cord or so of rounds today and see what happens, so if I do not repost maybe it was not okay!!!

I know it is a dangerous tool, with high pressure lines and all that.

Any comments are appreciated, on the filter or the Xtreme tractor fluid, it is the warmer climate kind not the Heavy Duty stuff in the white bucket. (Yellow bucket is the warmer climate stuff)

It seems to work! So if it works you know what they say...

Thanks in advance, I am going to get off the stupid computer and split some logs!

John in WA State :smile2:

 

[cascadejack]

I was WRONG!!! I have the 1551 filter not the 1553! Sorry...

OOPS!

I did get the right filter after all, I changed the hydraulic oil and followed all those detailed instructions I supplied in my last post. One thing I probably was doing wrong was letting the cylinder go all the way in, and all the way out at first. But I did this, when I flushed it and changed the fluid, but I think there was still a little air in there yesterday.

Today I changed the oil in the Briggs 11HP and put a brand new plug in there. Seems to start slightly better, but I put 10/30 in not SAE 30, and the old oil was black...

Now the motor is running pretty good, it came out of a pressure washer so was probably always going at full throttle.

I used to adjust the throttle to drop down the pressure when I was doing a lot of pressure washing. Not really a good idea on a hot day but the motor never blew up.

Anyways, I think letting the cylinder cycle all the way out, and all the way in is what I need to start doing now, as my cylinder seems to be getting hot. It is about 80 degrees today where I live.

Sorry about the mistake on the filter...

If anyone is reading all this, you are quite the reader! But should I install a breather on my tank? It has no breather cap right now, never had one.

I was thinking I would just get some metal pipe and fittings and run it up a few inches over the tank, then put a breather cap on it somehow. (Using my existing filler plug hole)

THe only other thing I noticed is might be getting some slight fluid leaks and how to deal with those, I should probably do a search on this one.

Thanks and sorry I was wrong about the filter, I got the 10 micron on there after all the NAPA 1551 GOLD, sells for about 8$ I think.

I just ate lunch now am back outside, I got laid off from my job last week so I have lots of time to split wood and maybe make a little money on the side selling wood or splitting wood. (wood I get for free, I cannot be an employee or I have to claim my wages earned)

If you are following this thread maybe comment on the breather or Xtreme brand Hydraulic Fluid, or even the 30/10 micron issue, but I am pretty sure 10 microns is what I want. NOT a 30 micron...

I cannot find my digital camera or I would post some photo's for everyone of my splitter!

Here is one of my fireplace wood stove surround I made myself:
View attachment 246807


John

 

[Steve NW WI]

John, you'll be alright with what you've got. The 30 micron would have been good enough as well, but I don't think you'd see any difference in operating with the different filters. Either one would have to be pretty well clogged to cause flow issues. Like you mentioned, they're nice to have but not mandatory. My 30+ year old homebuilt has a ton of hours with no filter at all.

Your UTF is fine. It would be a little thick below freezing, but just enough to make the motor harder to pull over, not enough to damage anything.

The jerkiness and hoses jumping is indeed a sign that you've got some air in the lines yet. Hoses will move slightly when you hit the lever, but if they're jumping a lot, it's air. Double check for correct fill level just to be safe, and cycle the cylinder the full stroke a bunch of times to work it out of the cylinder.

 

[cascadejack]

John, you'll be alright with what you've got. The 30 micron would have been good enough as well, but I don't think you'd see any difference in operating with the different filters. Either one would have to be pretty well clogged to cause flow issues. Like you mentioned, they're nice to have but not mandatory. My 30+ year old homebuilt has a ton of hours with no filter at all.

Your UTF is fine. It would be a little thick below freezing, but just enough to make the motor harder to pull over, not enough to damage anything.

The jerkiness and hoses jumping is indeed a sign that you've got some air in the lines yet. Hoses will move slightly when you hit the lever, but if they're jumping a lot, it's air. Double check for correct fill level just to be safe, and cycle the cylinder the full stroke a bunch of times to work it out of the cylinder.

Seems to be working fine now, I am tring to find the cables for my camera now, I found the camera and can take pictures of my woodpile...Now summer is kicking in and I have a lot on my plate so I think I have enough split wood for most of the winter.

I split about 2 cords already, rebuilt the carb and got it adjusted well. Still getting a little hot in the cylinder but that is after 2-3 hours splitting and I am trying to go full stroke out, all the way back as much as possible. On the old Brave Splitters they had a bar to kick off a log on the return stroke. It looks like if you hand got between the log and that protecter, you might mess it up. So I avoid doing that, basically.

I think it is a good idea also to practice shutting the return stroke off with the right hand, just in case.

It really saves on labor but the time I have spent working on this splitter, I could have had all the wood stacked by now...

Thanks for the comments. I will try and get some pictures before the fall hits.

Take care,

John