need cheap, throw away saw I can put a 24" + bar on

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there's a guy here who did a bunch of below water cutting one year. can't remember what he said he was doing it for but he said the saws do it just fine as long as you keep water away from the cooling fins of the cylinder. he said he has had many 660's burn up because water was getting at the cooling fins on the cooling air exit side which cooled the cylinder but not the piston. he sayed you will no right away cause the saw will seize up solid then break free once everything cools off. of coarse your top end will be cooked at that point.
 
Last month we were ice fishing and the auger bit broke off at the chuck and sunk to the bottom of the pond. Water was 15 foot there, so we came back next day with large magnets, they didn't quite have enough grunt to lift the auger out of the muddy bottom. Then we went and got a 20 foot piece of rebar and bent and welded a couple hooks on the end of it. I cut a larger hole in the foot of ice with the ported 346xp. Talk about a rooster tail of water and ice chips. I kept it running wide open and the water off of the saw and mostly on my pant leg. Then I put it in the truck right away so it wouldn't freeze. My pant leg froze solid by the time we had the ice auger fished out.

Once back at the shop I just ran it in wood some, and oiled everything.

A fun unusual experience for me.
 
I've made literally hundreds of cuts in the water, from bucking logs that were in the way of survey lines, to cutting snags laying across rivers so we can get a boat through, to cutting holes in the ice for a variety of reasons. If you keep the powerhead out of the water it is NO issue at all.
 
there's a guy here who did a bunch of below water cutting one year. can't remember what he said he was doing it for but he said the saws do it just fine as long as you keep water away from the cooling fins of the cylinder. he said he has had many 660's burn up because water was getting at the cooling fins on the cooling air exit side which cooled the cylinder but not the piston. he sayed you will no right away cause the saw will seize up solid then break free once everything cools off. of coarse your top end will be cooked at that point.
If the saw is already warmed up before the first cut I highly doubt that the water is going to cool the cylinder enough to cause such an effect.

7
 
If you do get the business-bits of a saw wet, the ONE item to get dried out is the clutch bearing. Else it can get kinda noisy. DAMHIKT.

No fans here of the "Piltz" custom competition stihls? You know, like the 170s with 36" bars and 20-tooth sprockets?

Back to reality, I'd consider logging tongs and winches to pull the big stick at least partly up and out, at least to reduce the under-water sparks. Don't like to sharpen big chains.
 
If the saw is already warmed up before the first cut I highly doubt that the water is going to cool the cylinder enough to cause such an effect.

7

just going by what he told me and his word of experience is alot stronger then your word of doubt. he's got 2 090's he's used for cutting underwater. he don't do the work anymore so i've been trying to get them out of him.
 
If the saw is already warmed up before the first cut I highly doubt that the water is going to cool the cylinder enough to cause such an effect.

7
It's called a cold seize. It happens when the cylinder cools rapidly and shrinks, while the piston is still warm and expanded.

It happens on snowmobiles all the time. If you don't let them warm up and just take off. The motor gets too warm before the thermostat opens up, and when it does, the ice cold coolant flows in and shrinks the cylinders around the piston.
 
just going by what he told me and his word of experience is alot stronger then your word of doubt. he's got 2 090's he's used for cutting underwater. he don't do the work anymore so i've been trying to get them out of him.
It's called a cold seize. It happens when the cylinder cools rapidly and shrinks, while the piston is still warm and expanded.

It happens on snowmobiles all the time. If you don't let them warm up and just take off. The motor gets too warm before the thermostat opens up, and when it does, the ice cold coolant flows in and shrinks the cylinders around the piston.
I know "cold sieze". That is why i wrote "If the saw is already warmed up before the first cut I highly doubt that the water is going to cool the cylinder enough to cause such an effect." ! If on the other had you just go at it, it is highly possible and I completely agree.

7
 
Make a box out of marine plywood, big enough for you and the saw. Leave both ends open and sink it into the mud. Pump out the water and commence cutting.
 
I need to cut the root mat in a cattail and sedge marsh around a ca. 35' x 35' square. The root mat is about 1-foot thick, and I expect to have standing water on the order of 1 foot deep. The soil is pure peat, no stones and virtually no mineral content.

I have two chainsaws that will run my 24 inch blade; brand spanking new 372xp and my first born 1984 266SE Neither of those are going to get used on this job.

I am tending toward my original idea; take the handle of one end of my old push-me-pull-me saw, and have at it.

I do appreciate all the discussion thought, even the snidey ones.

Thanks,
Tim
 
I know "cold sieze". That is why i wrote "If the saw is already warmed up before the first cut I highly doubt that the water is going to cool the cylinder enough to cause such an effect." ! If on the other had you just go at it, it is highly possible and I completely agree.

7
"Warmed up" would be irrelevant to an air cooled engine. When you warm up a liquid cooled engine, you get the coolant warm, that way you don't shock the motor when the thermostat opens up.

With an air cooled motor, if you douse the motor with cold water, it would act the the same as the thermostat opening up on a hot motor with cold coolant.
 
Chris-PA, that was exactly what I was looking for. Ordered one and expected by next Wednesday.

Thanks,
Tim
LOL - mine was delivered today and is waiting for me at home. I always like the Zenoah/RedMax G621, which is what this is a copy of.
 
It's called a cold seize. It happens when the cylinder cools rapidly and shrinks, while the piston is still warm and expanded.

It happens on snowmobiles all the time. If you don't let them warm up and just take off. The motor gets too warm before the thermostat opens up, and when it does, the ice cold coolant flows in and shrinks the cylinders around the piston.
Cold seizes occur far more commonly on fan cooled machines. Skidoo 550's are famous for them. The piston warms up and expands faster than the cylinder... squeeeek.
 
"Warmed up" would be irrelevant to an air cooled engine. When you warm up a liquid cooled engine, you get the coolant warm, that way you don't shock the motor when the thermostat opens up.

With an air cooled motor, if you douse the motor with cold water, it would act the the same as the thermostat opening up on a hot motor with cold coolant.
You aren't sticking the powerhead underwater. There is very little water sprayed on the cylinder when cutting in water. Sprayed water doesn't have nearly the cooling effect as immersion.
 
Cold seizes occur far more commonly on fan cooled machines. Skidoo 550's are famous for them. The piston warms up and expands faster than the cylinder... squeeeek.
I'm not familiar with many fan cooled sleds, mine have all been liquid cooled. I see what you're saying though.
 
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