need help husky 385 wont run

[woodyman666]

So my old 385xp ran fine one week n the next nothing so I figure spark issue. Tossed in a new plug still same. Take it round corner to local old man saw repair n he says it has spark.. he's to old to fixem any more tho so its off to saw shop. They say no spark it needs a coil. Get it home and it will kick over but die . If I hold gas on I can keep it going but its barely hanging on. Saw shop said compression was fine. Gas was saturating the air filter? Took off air filter and started it and gas is spitting out while running. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Looks like its a tillotson

 

[Scooterbum]

One of 2 things.
Needle in the carb is stuck.
Check the mounting of the coil and make sure it is grounding to the body good.If it's not getting a good ground it can act just like your describing.

 

[woodyman666]

It seems to be idling fine now by itself but throttling up stalls it? If it is the carb issue what am i ooking for ? Gas coming up the filter mounting just doesn't seem right to me (newbie tho). Could it possibly be wrong spark plug gap? I can't see any reason for the saw shop to have messed with any carb adjustments.

 

[spudulike]

The basics are Spark+Compression+Fuel=a running engine - there are a few exceptions but this covers 95% of the battle - check the compression - if you have no gauge then lift the saw, hold it by the starter handle and drop it - the saw should drop slowly downwards with the compression stroke slowing it up - 10 - 12 seconds is fairly normal for full extension.
Take the muffler off and check for a scored piston - 9 out of 10 saws I work on have been seized - partial seizure can occur - a slight pick up on the piston holding the ring in.
Fuel - make sure the adjusters are one turn out
If the saw is a pig to start, after 5-8 pulls, is the plug wet or dry - wet is good, dry and I would suggest a strip down of the carb and blasting it with carb cleaner - check the filters, impulse port/line and fuel line and tank vent.
Make sure the fast idle throttle lock is engaging and staying on when you try to start the saw.
IMO - dry the saw out, remove the plug and turn the saw upside down and pull the handle fast to get rid of puddled fuel, dry the plug out and check for a decent spark, replace it and make sure the carb is set to standard settings as above, make sure fast idle and full choke is used, yank the handle 6 times, if the saw doesn't at least fire a little then remove the plug and see if it is damp, soaking or dry.

Spud

 

[Griffbm3]

It seems to be idling fine now by itself but throttling up stalls it? If it is the carb issue what am i ooking for ? Gas coming up the filter mounting just doesn't seem right to me (newbie tho). Could it possibly be wrong spark plug gap? I can't see any reason for the saw shop to have messed with any carb adjustments.

I read the post from SPUDULIKE, and he is right on. You said you were a newbie to this so here is some other questions. Is the saw yours from the start? Did someone rebuild the carb recently?

When gas starts flowing every which way, sometimes the gasket were put in backwards.

I agree with drying everything out. Look physically at the piston through the exhaust port, compression tests only tell part of the story. When something idles, and won't spin up, the carb is usually pretty dirty. Might just need a rebuild. Luckily, that is a larger carb, and can be cleaned easier than the itty-bitty carbs on the 25cc engines.

Good luck with it. Also, check the coil gap from the flywheel to the coil. Plug gap should be fine out of the box on those.

Jason

 

[AUSSIE1]

I would start with the carb..

You need to strip the carb down and give it a good and proper clean and get all the adjustments right.

Workshop manual for the 385.

http://www.gardening-tools-direct.co.uk/content/husqwm275_hwen2001_1140009-26.pdf

 

[woodyman666]

Guess ill start with the carb it wasn't. Rebuilt I've had it for 2 seasons and has ran perfect since I got it 2pulls never more.. got it off ebay from loggers in B.C. can a common fella get a rebuild kit n not mess it up? Is there more to it to get muffler off than the two mounting bolts and the two bracket bolts? Was gonna pull it but didn't want to force it didn't seem to want to come off after I loosened all the bolts I saw.. I should probably try to tune carb before rippin it apart. Is that a possible fix just doesn't seeem like saw shop woud have messed with it they just did the new coil

 

[mdavlee]

The muffler has 2 bolts down the little round holes above where the bracket bolts to it.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Guess ill start with the carb it wasn't. Rebuilt I've had it for 2 seasons and has ran perfect since I got it 2pulls never more.. got it off ebay from loggers in B.C. can a common fella get a rebuild kit n not mess it up? Is there more to it to get muffler off than the two mounting bolts and the two bracket bolts? Was gonna pull it but didn't want to force it didn't seem to want to come off after I loosened all the bolts I saw.. I should probably try to tune carb before rippin it apart. Is that a possible fix just doesn't seeem like saw shop woud have messed with it they just did the new coil

A couple of weeks ago I took the 395 out to cut a load of firewood and before I had finished it was barely running. Once home I took the carby apart, cleaned and it's running fine.

OK your a newbie and we've all been there. There's only one way to learn otherwise it's an hourly rate.

Did you check out the workshop manual? It will help you through it.

It might not be the carb, but it's a good place to start if you are getting fuel in the inlet. Sometimes it's a process of elimination.

Yes Bailey's a sponsor here (at the top of the page) has carby kits.

We can only advise so much, The rest is up to you.