Need help! problems with my 372xp

[dingeryote]

Just thinking here.

Pull the clutch drum, check the bearing, and shoes. Get all the drek and gorp out, and take a close look around.
If the brake is half engaged you'll see it right off.

The German Carlton Bars are 10X the bar any Oregon floppy trash ever was, and I'll put 'em up there with the Stihl ES.
I wish Bailys had more of them, and Oregon didn't screw us over by killing off Carlton.

The only problem is the clear finish getting into the oil passages and chain groove, and then the factory leaving the #### in there.
If ya grind down one of those little orange Stihl screwdrivers a bit, then heat it up and bend a .250 long 90 into the tip, they make a nifty groove scraper, that wont get loaded up like sandpaper does.

If you can move the chain by hand with the thing not running, it's not the brake or the chain hanging up in gorp IMO.
Ya got other issues.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[CJ1]

I had the same problem with one of my 338's, ended up being the wrong sprocket. Chain would spin loose but when it was adjusted correctly it would lock up. CJ

 

[Boleclimber]

If ya grind down one of those little orange Stihl screwdrivers a bit, then heat it up and bend a .250 long 90 into the tip, they make a nifty groove scraper, that wont get loaded up like sandpaper does.

Dingeryote

To combat clogging sand paper I use 36 grit and 80 grit. Same type of paper used for autobody plastic filler sanding.

 

[PSJ/WI]

I'll bet you find that the groove is full of lacquer...

The last Carlton bar I bought had so much lacquer on it that the chain would not even drop down into the groove. I ended up stripping the whole bar with paint stripper. I just gave it a good oiling before putting it back on. No problems.


PJ

 

[RIDGERUNNER34]

Got home from work today and work on the bar sanded the grooves best i could the bar does have a heavy clear coating. found two rough places inside the bar put it all back togetherand the saw will run if the chain is extremely loose but tighten the bar cover nuts a little and it want move, do you guys think the inside of the bar is gumed up with this clear coating. or could it be my clutch, what the sure way to tell if your cutch is bad?:confused2:

 

[PSJ/WI]

With the saw shut off, can you rotate the chain around the bar by hand when snugged up to normal tightness?

If not, what about if you loosen the two clutch cover nuts just a bit so that the chain is still tight but the nuts are just a little loose?

If the clutch drum is spinning free (as I think you said it was) you should be able to pull that chain around the bar by hand with little effort.

If you have lacquer (or possibly some other obstruction) in the groove, you will not be able to pull it around by hand and the saw probably will not be able to pull it around either. Give it enough throttle, while trying to spin the chain in that condition and you will get the clutch smoking in short order.

 

[sunfish]

Got home from work today and work on the bar sanded the grooves best i could the bar does have a heavy clear coating. found two rough places inside the bar put it all back togetherand the saw will run if the chain is extremely loose but tighten the bar cover nuts a little and it want move, do you guys think the inside of the bar is gumed up with this clear coating. or could it be my clutch, what the sure way to tell if your cutch is bad?:confused2:

Have ya pulled the clutch drum off, for a lOOk?

When you say "extremely loose" is the chain sagging at the bottom of the bar?

There are different levels if looseness and tightness.

Most of the time, a chain will be tighter after the bar nuts are tightened.

Hard to figure what's goin on with no pics and limited info.

 

[Boleclimber]

Got home from work today and work on the bar sanded the grooves best i could the bar does have a heavy clear coating. found two rough places inside the bar put it all back togetherand the saw will run if the chain is extremely loose but tighten the bar cover nuts a little and it want move, do you guys think the inside of the bar is gumed up with this clear coating. or could it be my clutch, what the sure way to tell if your cutch is bad?:confused2:

By description is sounds as though the clearance between your chain gauge and bar gauge are too tight.

I once witnessed a similar situation when a person tried putting a .058 gauge chain in a worn .050 bar. The chain would spin with the bar nuts loose. Snug the bar nuts, chain would bind up and not move.

Being that you bought new the two should be matched. However mistakes can happen. It is possible the bar has poor machining and too tight on clearances. It is also possible you have the wrong chain pitch as others suggested or wrong bar.

It may be time to post chain numbers and bar numbers or pictures of the chain drivers and pictures of the bar heel (bar numbers).

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Here is the information i have, purchased a 20in carlton bar from baileys the bar is a 3/8 0.058. the chain is a woodland pro WPL 20 38RC72 3/8 .058. I looked at the rim spocket and it has the numbers 3/8-7. the spocket looks to be in good shape. when i put the new bar and chain on it does nothing , but acts like it's bloged down and if you give it a lot of gas it starts to smoke. for the heck of it i put the 28inch bar back on and it did run but act like it was in a bind and the bar and chain got very hot. I just don't know what to do.

From what I see here you have a 3/8 .058 bar, and it looks like you also have the 3/8 rim sprocket, however the WPL 20 38RC72 is a .325 chain, if I recall Baileys (WPL) chain in 3/8 is a WPL 30 I would contact Bailey's and tell them they sent you the wrong chain.

 

[sunfish]

From what I see here you have a 3/8 .058 bar, and it looks like you also have the 3/8 rim sprocket, however the WPL 20 38RC72 is a .325 chain, if I recall Baileys (WPL) chain in 3/8 is a WPL 30 I would contact Bailey's and tell them they sent you the wrong chain.

Good eye, Fish! I don't know enough about WP chain to know the #s'. Missed that one.