Need help with John S. Barnes Pump: GC-6016-A-2BR2

[OReilly]

Hello all, I picked up a very old homemade log splitter that works great. I am in the process of upgrading to a larger hydraulic tank. It only has a small 2 gallon tank on it now. The barnes pump on it actually has 3 hose connections. I have 2 non-pressure hoses mounted to the side and bottom of the pump and then the outlet high pressure line. The 2 non pressure hoses go into the hydraulic tank right next to each other. The new tanks and pumps these days only have 1 suction and 1 return.

Should I just put a "Tee" on the 2 hoses running to the pump. I don't know which of these 2 hoses is the suction since they are both non pressure and both connect to the pump at the bottom and side of the pump. I have pictures.

 

[mga]

disconnect them and turn, in the proper direction, by hand....you'll find out which is which.

I believe the "3rd" connection is not for a hose but for adjusting the pump (?)

 

[muddstopper]

disconnect them and turn, in the proper direction, by hand....you'll find out which is which.

I believe the "3rd" connection is not for a hose but for adjusting the pump (?)

Pretty sure both lines are for tank if you look close you can see the pressure hose on opposite side. You donot want to tee your suction hoses together. I havent seen a pump configured like that one before. Just how old is that splitter.

Here is another thread about the same pump http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/barnes-pump-gc-6016-a-series-info.251483/

 

[OReilly]

The guy I bought it from said it is a homemade unit that was about 30 years old

 

[muddstopper]

The pump in the other thread doesnt show a second suction hose on the pump. My thoughts are if the machine is working like it should and all your doing is changing the tank, why change the way it is plumbed. If it aint broke, dont fix it.

 

[OReilly]

The tank only holds 2 gallons of fluid and the fluid heats up too quick to get more than about 30 mins of work

 

[OReilly]

Tanks only come with 1 suction and 1 return port...this pump has 3 hose connections. 2 that both appear to be suction and 1 return....that is why I thought maybe putting a tee for the 2 hoses that appear to be suction

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Just weld in a 2nd suction fitting.

 

[mga]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/barnes-pump-gc-6016-a-series-info.251483/

 

[OReilly]

I was thinking about welding in another bung but I really don't feel like cutting and welding into a brand new tank. I have a welder and its not a huge deal but would rather avoid that. The 2 lines are directly next to each other connected on the side/bottom of the tank so I am wondering what the harm is in just putting a T at the tank and then connecting the 2 hoses....Only thing I can think of is that both feed the pump depending on the 1st or 2nd stage...it is really bugging me that their is absolutely no literature online to tell me which connection is what on the pump and I called their office and they were no help. All I know is that I have 3 connections and I know which one is pressure side. Common sense tells me the line horizontal and opposite the pressure side is the suction line but the line going into the bottom of the pump is stumping me.

 

[muddstopper]

I cant help you about that pump, I have never seen one just like it. Connecting both suctions by tee to the tank might result in one suction starving the other suction of oil. I would put another port in the tank.

 

[OReilly]

I was also just thinking about connecting the other line into the tank drain plug hole. Its rare that I will drain the fluid and if I do, I can just unscrew the hose to drain it.

 

[kevin j]

That is an oldie.
I 'think', maybe guessing, but the unloading adjustment might be a fuzzy hex head near the shaft end, near side in the picture.
If so, then the rear block may be a pressure relief valve, and the hose may be a connection back to tank.
In a two stage, the larger gear set unloads back to inlet, but the small gear set depends on the relief valve usually in the inlet of the control or spool valve.
Maybe for some reason this one has a relief bolted onto the end cap?

Clean thoroughly, then take it apart. I am very curious.

 

[OReilly]

Thanks. I am not going to take the pump apart....it doesn't leak and it functions perfectly....if it aint broke don't fix it. Just need to figure out how to connect both hoses to the tank since the tank only has one suction port

 

[kevin j]

If it is a relief valve then your tee would work although not recommended.
You could tee the relief valve line into the return line anywhere from control valve to filter to tank

If it is a suction line then you need two ports not tee. Cavitation can destroy a pump.

 

[muddstopper]

Kevin, I had thought about the unloading valve using another port to dump back to tank, but was afraid to say thats whats going on with that pump. The thought that comes to my mind has already been suggested, unhook the pump from engine and turn the shaft by hand, if the one line is for the unloader, then it shouldnt suck oil into the pump. Since its very unlikely you could spin the shaft fast enough to get the unloader to work, it shouldnt dump any oil back to tank either. If the line does suck fluid, then keep it on a seperate port at the tank, if it doesnt, just tee it back into the return line. Would that work? Not sure if I wouldnt just unhook both hoses from tank and drop into a bucket and crank the engine to see what happens.

 

[OReilly]

Kevin, I had thought about the unloading valve using another port to dump back to tank, but was afraid to say thats whats going on with that pump. The thought that comes to my mind has already been suggested, unhook the pump from engine and turn the shaft by hand, if the one line is for the unloader, then it shouldnt suck oil into the pump. Since its very unlikely you could spin the shaft fast enough to get the unloader to work, it shouldnt dump any oil back to tank either. If the line does suck fluid, then keep it on a seperate port at the tank, if it doesnt, just tee it back into the return line. Would that work? Not sure if I wouldnt just unhook both hoses from tank and drop into a bucket and crank the engine to see what happens.

 

[OReilly]

I am also thinking about rinning the engine at idle speed and briefly pinch off each line...the pump should wine if I find and pinch the suction line...pinch it just for a second

 

[kevin j]

Pinching could damage the hose
Suction hose should have a single large diameter wire spiral in the molded layer to prevent collapse under vacuum say cold start. Radiator or heater hose not good.

Bill I like your turn shaft idea. I think that would work.

 

[OReilly]

I am replacing all the lines anyway...right now, all of the low pressure and return hoses are all heater hose and I can squeeze them together and pinch them with my hand when the rig is not running.