Need Ideas on MS391

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Look guys I let a couple comments get to me, I owe Brad especially a apology I am sorry man you have helped me when no one on here would, next time I will stop and think about what you have to say before I respond.
As for this bar thing there is what works on papper and what works for me, I honestly bought the saws this way like it or not it works, and works well, maybe it shouldn't I don't argue that, but it does work. I like it let it be, I believe that the 3/8 .050 skip tooth helps, I am also telling you this thing has some nut.
O.K. Clamshell design(now we are getting some where) so we are looking at something similar to the PM610 by Mac or Poulans new saws, where the only way to raise compression would be with a pop up piston. That means I need to find a good wielder and machinist. Perhaps mild porting would be the way to start. I retuned the carb and was amazed, apparently they tuned it to 11500, I brought it up to 12500, I think I can raise it more but would like to wait until I break it in more, but it wants more.
Hey, don't sweat it:clap: A muffler mod goes a LONG way on a MS390. Porting should help just like any saw. It's just harder to get down inside the jug to the ports. You're right on increasing compression. Welding a popup is about the only feasible means. I would try just porting it first. That and a muffler mod will get you what you're looking for.
 
Look guys I Sent a pm to Brad apologizeing, I like to think that When I blow things I am man enough to admit it. He of all people deserve far more respect then that he was and has been a friend to me when most of you guys wouldn't give me the time of day, I have apologized to him once, now I am doing it again, I hope you'll forgive me for being a a$$ and not thinking before opening my mouth. You would think that I would change that after all the trouble I have gotten into for that, Truly sorry man you deserve a lot more then that from me, I do consider you a friend, and I greatly value your opinion, I just didn't think before I went off never happen again.
 
Here are a few pic's from left to right ; My ever faithful 034(wish my dog acted like this saw) next up my 2100cd woods ported(I pull pipe back for a living on drilling rigs I can't stall this thing awesome power) Last the new guy MS 391 and yes that is the contirversal 28" bar. That little load of wood in the back is fully aged pinion, so full of pitch that it won't split with a axe, and a splitter pretty much just crushes it. It was all cut and saw split with that MS 391 and a 28" bar. Guess the proof is right there this saw works and works well, I don't regret laying down 6 bills for it, I just regret that I am going to have to head back to the rig before I can enjoy it more. I am slowly becoming a Stihl fan just please don't let the husky guys know
 
I do believe the dealer put a 28" bar on so that it would "sell faster."
As crazy as this sounds, my local Husky dealer says that many times he puts longer bars on because folks "like the looks of a big bar" on a saw.

exactly,why do you think poulan slapps 18's on the wild thang. its not to much bar till someone sticks it in an 18"log,it sucks. but put 16" and keep your wood under 14" muff mod it tuneit and shes on fire.

you can run a 28" on your 390, but bury it in a 26-28" hardwood it will stumble,pine maybe not. but keep your wood about 20" it should work good.

people for some reason thinks its the bar that dictates wood size ,and them complain the loudest. dealers(some) make their living of the "size" card.


also automotive motors are not the same animals as saw motors,very poor comparision ,and holds no marit.

you do also realize as soon as you mod your saw the warranty is worthless.
 
exactly,why do you think poulan slapps 18's on the wild thang. its not to much bar till someone sticks it in an 18"log,it sucks. but put 16" and keep your wood under 14" muff mod it tuneit and shes on fire.

you can run a 28" on your 390, but bury it in a 26-28" hardwood it will stumble,pine maybe not. but keep your wood about 20" it should work good.

people for some reason thinks its the bar that dictates wood size ,and them complain the loudest. dealers(some) make their living of the "size" card.


also automotive motors are not the same animals as saw motors,very poor comparision ,and holds no marit.

you do also realize as soon as you mod your saw the warranty is worthless.

You make a pretty good point, fact is all I usually cut is pine, doug fir, yellow pine, spruce, white fur, aspen, and occasionally cedar for posts. The 28" bar works great, for this kind of work and its d##m sight easier on a guys back then a 20" bar. Further if things get too big I usually got my 2100cd in the tool box, ain't much that's too big for that saw. As far as the warranty is concerned, I paid for it, but never counted on using it, so for me the most I will ever get out of that warranty is literally the papper it is printed on, Escalante is pretty remote, it is alot easier to just fix the problem your self and save your self the 200 mile ride to the dealer.
I been checking things out alot more this is a new model, so new I been looking for a 3/4 wrap handle for it and can't seem to find one, so I am thinking I will wait on this mod for awhile.
 
exactly,why do you think poulan slapps 18's on the wild thang. its not to much bar till someone sticks it in an 18"log,it sucks. but put 16" and keep your wood under 14" muff mod it tuneit and shes on fire.

you can run a 28" on your 390, but bury it in a 26-28" hardwood it will stumble,pine maybe not. but keep your wood about 20" it should work good.

people for some reason thinks its the bar that dictates wood size ,and them complain the loudest. dealers(some) make their living of the "size" card.


also automotive motors are not the same animals as saw motors,very poor comparision ,and holds no marit.

you do also realize as soon as you mod your saw the warranty is worthless.

I ain't gonna argue with you, but ( and I am thinking here) If you honestly believe that there is no merit in comparing automotive motors to saw motors then you are the one who needs to think again, aside from the 4 stroke to 2 stroke differences, what make them both perform are displacement and volumetric effiency, meaning big cylinders make big power, but only if they are filled as much as possible before they are fired, and then it becomes a matter of making a complete burn, before the exhaust port opens, kills cylinder pressure,and starts exhaust evacuation, hopefully by this time you are at the bottom of the stroke, the only differences between a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke is the 4stroke depends on a came and valves for its timing and exhaust and intake needs, a 2 stroke depends on the spacing of its ports and their size.
So basically regardless if I can get my port timing right, and my ports enlarged to the correct size, and raise my compression, basically work toward making my saw more volumetrically efficent, then 8cc ain't gonna save your back side, or matter. By the same measure what can be done to a smaller motor can also be done to a large one with much better results.
Now before you make another comment like that think, and by the way like it or not if the EPA has it's way the next generation chainsaws will be 4 strokes, so maybe you better get used to the idea! IT DOES HAVE MERIT!!!
 
By the way I am no idiot I am comparing a 64.1 cc saw to a 72 cc saw that's a difference of 8cc it ain't that big a jump, I have seen small block chevys eat big blocks, where the displacement was a lot larger. Problem as I see it is you don't want to admit you got screwed out of money for a over priced saw, when you could have bought something else, and got better performance. Don't presume I am stupid I did my home work, I don't like following everyone elses lead. All I wanted was to see If someone had had the courage to try something new, I am pretty disappointed.

this was the quote i was referencing. small blocks can be better than big blocks,put a 327/350hp angainst a 70's 460bb ,yes the sb will smoke a bb.but here you say 8cc isnt a big jump but your comparing cc to hundreds of ci in difference.
do some simple math and convert a 64cc to a motor size equivilent then find what the difference 8cc would be.youll be surprised how much bigger it really is.
 
the ms391 looks pretty good with a 28" bar. also it is the first time I have noticed the differences in the look compared to the ms390

Here are a few pic's from left to right ; My ever faithful 034(wish my dog acted like this saw) next up my 2100cd woods ported(I pull pipe back for a living on drilling rigs I can't stall this thing awesome power) Last the new guy MS 391 and yes that is the contirversal 28" bar. That little load of wood in the back is fully aged pinion, so full of pitch that it won't split with a axe, and a splitter pretty much just crushes it. It was all cut and saw split with that MS 391 and a 28" bar. Guess the proof is right there this saw works and works well, I don't regret laying down 6 bills for it, I just regret that I am going to have to head back to the rig before I can enjoy it more. I am slowly becoming a Stihl fan just please don't let the husky guys know



tt
 
Sure does, handled (fondled) the 391 a bit today...

Strange little saw the more I handle it the more I like it. The only thing that kinda bothers me is the way it sounds, kinda like a Jap bike more of a high pitched scream. I am a Harley fan I like the sound of my 034, 0r my 288, this is gonna take some getting used too.
 
this was the quote i was referencing. small blocks can be better than big blocks,put a 327/350hp angainst a 70's 460bb ,yes the sb will smoke a bb.but here you say 8cc isnt a big jump but your comparing cc to hundreds of ci in difference.
do some simple math and convert a 64cc to a motor size equivilent then find what the difference 8cc would be.youll be surprised how much bigger it really is.

Like I said I ain't gonna argue, I built drag motors as a hobby for years my best was a stroked out small block in a 1970 chevelle that would conssistantly run in the low 9 second range With a average speed of 145 mph problem was is was so stroked out the block was only good for about 5 passes, not very competitive.
I ain't no Timberwolf I have never heard a guy other then cam grinders that know that much about math, it's crazy. However I know that what makes any internal combustion engine run is it's ability to breathe if it can breathe well enough it will preform all out of shape to it's size, other wise why would guys be trying to Mod their saws.
 
I have a 391 it came with a 28" bar I opted for a 24" bar the dealer even said it would cut better. I am not happy with it I cut a lot of oak and it is all big the average size logs are about 20" I didnt have the money for a bigger saw but I got what I got and if there is any improvements that can be made to make some more power out of this thing I would like to know. Someone on here said that the 362 muffler will fit a 391? if so does the 362 have a catalytic coverter in it too? I think this is the main power problem on the 391 the exhaust is obviously chocked off 64 cc's is a decent sized saw and if an engine runs efficiently then it should make good power but if it is choked off it doesnt. So with that in mind we are all going to be screwed because the 311 and 391 are the first from stihl with the new emission mods and the 441 as far as i know. so how about some help figuring out what to do with these so when all the 460's and 660's get the same mods and they all turn into 461's and 661's we will all know what to do.
 
Terry, Cutting softwoods such as pine, doug fir, etc, you will have no problems i had my ms 310 fully burried in doug fir (seasoned/25 inch bar) without any issues. If the handle is anything like the old farm boss saws, you will need the warranty as its a solid plastic one peice handle and a POS. But as far as a straight up work saw it will hold its own as long as your arms will support it. I loved the ms310 for most cutting on semi level ground, untill i realized it was the same weight as a 044, now i just cant bring myself to lug the thing around. In fact i should go start the old girl up, dont wanna let it seize from lack of use.... or do i LOL. ( i really dont, there nice saws) I know what ya mean about the growl, they just dont have it. If you wanna stay happy with your saw, get off this site, burn your PW, and dont be tempted to run a 044/440/460/046/372/371.


P.S terry i am in no way tryin to diss your saw, your choice, or you. In fact rifle through some "farm boss" threads and you will see me arguing and yelling at these guys defending my ms310, cause its a work horse, but now i understand what the ribbing is about, i suspect you will too if you run a pro saw in the 70 cc range.
 
Hello Terry:

One of the saws I own is your saws predecessor, predecessor, a 039. It carries a 25” bar, and has never had any problems cutting. Like you, I cut only Ponderosa, Pinion, Dug Fir, Aspen, ect. (all soft wood trees). Lots of folks told me it had too much bar, but I never had any problems with the woods I cut.

I bought that saw new 20 years ago, and it’s never missed a beat.

So, if they are happier with the smaller bars, more power to them. They are welcome to spend their $$ any way that suits them.

Personally, when I buy a saw, I will buy what works for me, based on my needs.

Richard
 
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