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I appreciate your input.

However, at this time I am limited to what this local nursery is providing. My selection is listed above.

Maybe when we move to a more permanent residence we will be open to more exotic tree varieties. Course, at that time i will have more space and this discussion will not be needed....
 
Why a KIA when you can have a Benz

Red Maple (October Glory)
Purple Ash
Tulip Poplar
Red Oak
Willow Oak

What kind of Red Oak is it?. Northern Red? The best one on the list, depending on the species of the Red Oak, is either the Willow Oak or the Red Oak but all will get to large for the site in the photo, if a storm doesn't take it out first. If I could only choose one from the list and I was bound and determined not to put in a concerted effort to obtain an appropriate tree for my site, I guess I would go with the October Glory. Red Sunset, if it were available, would be better. Your neighbor made a good choice in choosing Japanese Maples.
 
My vote is for the Red Oak. The little tiny Willow Oak leaves are a major pain to clean up and out of the gutters...but they do grow faster.
 
I disagree with the thought that the trees will be too big. I want a big tree. The little japanese maples are too small for what I want. I guess to each is own.

I drove around the streets here to see if I could find any similar places with big trees. There is a house with the same deminsions and same yard that has a 40 or 50 yr old red oak in the front yard. I don't think it looks bad. In fact, it looks a lot better than the cookie-cutter-balloon-shaped-maples that everyone has in this neighborhood.

I have decided that I am either going with the tulip or the red oak. One will go in the front and one will go in the back left to replace the runt water maple.

Thanks for everyone's input!
 
"I disagree with the thought that the trees will be too big. I want a big tree. The little japanese maples are too small for what I want. I guess to each is own."


Why do you bother asking if you are not going to listen?

Those choices are too big for that area,
A Zelcova would be a better choice.

Want a bigger tree get a bigger lot.



:rolleyes:
 
I planted a Kentucky coffeetree a couple years ago that is spreading pretty well.

Ginkgo is my favorite tree, for sure. Have about 70 under propagation at the moment.
 
I would also vote for one of the oaks for that spot instead of the tulip. Tulip is fast growing and offers shade but think it be poor decision for that location. Maple choice given will have to many surface roots for that small area. Good luck with your selection.
 
I would go for something with a triangular form.

Flowering cherry came to mind, inverted triangle - vase shape. But those have many issues.

So a scarlet oak came to mind. The wide lower portion of the canopy would spread in a way to compliment the widthe of the building.

Pin oaks, I don't like. But scarlet oaks have a nice color and drop leaves in season.

I don't think the acorns would be a problem even with the sidewalks.

A beech could be handy too.
 
Hey Che, are you the poster whose brother-in-law backed into your Bur Oak with his truck?

That's me. :D The tree is doing fine, almost closed off. I've since mulched it in an approximately 10' circle. I've edged the circle with some Cumberland rocks (with fossils).....hoping that at least they would act as a BUMP before he can do it again.

If you don't want 'cookie cutter'....I'd get rid of the square shrubs.....get something in there with a bit 'softer' feel.

What are the dimensions of that front middle area that you want a tree? It looks pretty small, but maybe it's bigger than it looks.
 
Originally posted by coffeecraver
[B Why do you bother asking if you are not going to listen?
Want a bigger tree get a bigger lot.
[/B]
pretty harsh there, Norm. I totally disagree with the idea that the tree has to match the building. The tree is part of the larger landscape; look at the forest outside the building to get an idea of scale.

Another suggestion might be a fast-grower (tulip or real poplar, etc.) near the house, and a slow-grower (coffeetree, oak) nearer the street. After 20 years or so the fastgrower comes out; the slowgrower is ready to take over.

che's 10' mulch radius brings up a good point--you'll want to install a landscape, not just a tree. Trees do better with associated plants like shrubs and wildflowers around them rather than turfgrass. Figure out what part of your yard NEEDS to be turf, and naturalize the rest.

It's almost planting time; do you know where your utilities are?
 
I do not mean to harsh, I am thinking that down the road 20 years someone will have it cut down or butchered to accomidate
the space.

Guy is this information correct?

Do you think he has the space?

Right tree Right Place!!

(This information is specific to the Red Oak.)

The minimum growing space for a tree (6 in) in d.b.h. to survive
averages about (92 ft².

If that tree is in the open or completely
free from competition, the maximum amount of growing space it can use is
(155 ft² .

For a tree (21 in) in d.b.h., minimum and maximum
growing spaces are (285 ft² ) and (492 ft²) respectively.

Using the stocking standards developed by Gingrich
 
If you want to go strictly by some off the wall (shelf) book I guess there's not enough room:rolleyes:

I'm glad that info wasn't around when the houses in my neighborhood were built, there'd be no 100 ft. Oaks shading the houses and streets on these tiny 1/4 acre lots.

I don't think the Poplar would give you nearly the amount of shade as it would seem though, they tend to grow straight up and only shade a small area that moves around:alien:
 
If you want to go strictly by some off the wall (shelf) book I guess there's not enough room
What else do you go by sheer luck?
That is also not enough room for a Popular

Originally posted by whitenack
Treeman,

How wide can those surface roots get? I have to be careful because I have those walkways on both sides.

This is the main problem those trees will in time interfere with those walks.

Chinese pistachio is a nice tree
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hardiness Zones: 7-9
Habit: Deciduous
Growth Rate: Moderate to rapid
Site Requirements: Sun; prefers moist, well drained soil but tolerates a wide range of soils (poor, dry)
Texture: Medium
Form: Oval; rounded; main branches may be upright to arching
Height: 25 to 40'
Width: 25 to 35'
Leaf: Alternate, compound even pinnate leaves; excellent red, yellow, or orange fall color
Flower/Fruit: Small greenish flowers; blue/red fruit on female trees
Comments: Drought tolerant; easy to transplant; male and female trees; modest exfoliating bark

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/images/pistachia_chinensis-2.jpg

:)
 
Sorry to have offended anyone by not taking their advice. Trust that I do not ignore it. There have been several different answers to my question, so no matter what decision I made, their would be someone whose advice was 'ignored'.

I gave you all a list of the only trees that I had to pick from. I said, "which one do you recomend, 'A', 'B', 'C', or 'D'?". When you say, "I think you need 'E'", it must seem like I ignored you, but you ignored my question.

Anyway, thanks to everyone who posted. I went with a red maple. It's not exactly what I wanted, but that is what the nursery recommended and it will be smaller than the oak and TP.

To Che: The yard plot is 20' wide x 30' deep.

I agree with you Todd. My favorite neighborhoods are in the old sections of town where the big red oaks line the narrow streets and tower above the houses. Maybe those aren't as popular in other parts of the country. I guess form is overtaking function.

I have a new question concerning this red maple that I planted, but I will post it in a new thread. One with no stink on it.
 

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