Need Mid-Range Saw Advice

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Islander

ArboristSite Operative
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Oct 29, 2007
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Location
Northern Vermont
Time for a new saw, I'm thinking.

- 6 acre wood lot. Its second growth, starting in the 1930-40's, so most trees are on the smaller side. Lots of small growth makes it kind of thick woods.

- Largest trees are 24" at base, but typical trees are 10-16". Mostly ash, but some birch and DED Elms, and some softwoods like poplar and basswood too.

- Firewood is a combination of blowdown, and some felling of dead or less viable trees.

- 3-5 cord/year for my woodstove (BIS Nova) to supplement oil heat. I'm about 70% wood in the winter.

- Currently 2 saws: Makita 6401 (ex-HD Rental), and a cheapo Craftsman 18" (42cc I think).

6401 is big enough for anything in my woods. So got the high end covered as far as power goes. The power comes with weight though...

Craftsman saw is small and light and good for debranching and limbing. Good for the low end for zinging off branches and pruning. It's a cheap saw but has generally treated me well...probably over 100 tanks of gas.

Here's what I'm looking for:

I'm usually cutting up whole trees. Since I'm trying to clean up my woods in addition to hauling in wood, I usually cut and burn down to 3-4" diameter rounds. So at least 1/2 of my cutting time is on smaller stuff to prepare to block up the bigger trunks and limbs.

I always seem to find myself working in a tangle of saplings and branches whenever I cut. Of course, I always step back and look for the safest way to approach the job (and always use helmet and chaps). But seems like the tangle is unavoidable in many cases.

I'm looking for a saw that's good on the smaller stuff, but also big enough to not need the 6401 until I get to say 10" rounds.

My craftsman saw is great for this. It has a narrow, small radius 18" bar (oregon DG 91), so its easy to cut branches close to the trunk. It's long enough that I can stand most of the time. Its light enough that I can de-branch for an hour without stopping. But its also a cheap Poulin and not without its problems. I usually switch to the 6401 at about 6-8" diameter.

I'm thinking a light 50cc saw is just the ticket.

I've been looking at a Dolmar 5100S or a Stihl MS270. I would have already bought a 5100S (seems like a little hot rod), but there are no Dolmar dealers within 50 miles. And those at 50+ do not stock anything until you go over 100 miles (into NH and upstate NY). Seems Vermont is Stihl country...

Plenty of Stihl dealers around here. If there's anything I've learned from this forum, it is that a good dealer makes a difference. I've never needed either saw serviced, but its probably a matter of time...

Is the Stihl 270 a good bet for what I describe? Seems like the long thin profile would be a help. Easy to handle after an hour or two of continuous use?

Any other options I should consider? Thanks!!
 
There should be a Husky dealer near you, tell them you want a 346XP.
 
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I have three saws, Poulan 405 plus which is a old pioneer made in Canada,which I use for large diameter. The next is a Stihl MS290 farm boss with 18 in bar .325 chain, and a old poulan 2000 which was my father in laws saw. I would recommend the Stilh I can use it for almost anything, great all around saw.
 
easy choices

If there is a Husky dealer near you, the best choice is a 346XP. Light and hotter than the 5100. If you're looking for a Stihl, because of dealer proximity, go for the MS 260, you can't go wrong.

Matt
 
saw

used ms440 its light enough and reliable i dont know why people waste there time and money on smaller saws i have smaller saws and i think their a waste go little bigger im always grabbing a 046 044 or 7900 the others can stay home the faster you cut the better no?you are cutting firewood right?
 
Look for a 372XPwith an 18" bar. Out cuts my 55 Rancher 3 cuts to one. Don't waste $$$ on a small saw. It sounds like you have enough work to do to justify it.
 
Considering your statements:

Dolmar PS5100, and even the slightly lesser 501, with 16" bar. Superior antivibe.


Husky 346, or its Jonsered equivalent. Superior antivibe.


Stihl......an 028, 028super......200 rear handle. anything else will just disappoint you.....if I were spending my money, the competition is the way to go.


With the 6401 covering your needs so far, you would be best served by the smaller saw maximized with a shorter bar. Yeah, you have bend over an extra inch or two, but you'll be ahead in expenses and time.

I've used the saws listed, and that's how I'd spend my money or yours. Unless you run to a dealer every time your air filter clogs up, then get the seldom parts order through the mail and do the maintenance yourself.

" the 5100 seems like a little hot rod " answered your own question right there.
 
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How about aiming for a classic two-saw firewood plan? The popular combo is a 50cc saw with a 70cc (or bigger) model.

Get a nice small bucking/limbing saw:
NE346XP, 5100s, MS260, or some others already mentioned.

If you later realize that you need a bigger saw, upgrade your 6401 with a 7900 piston & cylinder to complete a 50cc/80cc firewood combo. :cheers:
 
Look for a 372XPwith an 18" bar. Out cuts my 55 Rancher 3 cuts to one. Don't waste $$$ on a small saw. It sounds like you have enough work to do to justify it.

You need a better "small saw" - a 5100 (or 346 or 260) will hang right with a big saw in smaller wood, everything else being equal. My 5100 runs the same 3/8 chain as my 7300, and turns it at the same speed if not a bit faster. Why would it cut slower?

Considering your statements:

Dolmar PS5100, and even the slightly lesser 501, with 16" bar. Superior antivibe.


Husky 346, or its Jonsered equivalent. Superior antivibe.


Stihl......an 028, 028super......200 rear handle. anything else will just disappoint you.....if I were spending my money, the competition is the way to go.


With the 6401 covering your needs so far, you would be best served by the smaller saw maximized with a shorter bar. Yeah, you have bend over an extra inch or two, but you'll be ahead in expenses and time.

I've used the saws listed, and that's how I'd spend my money or yours. Unless you run to a dealer every time your air filter clogs up, then get the seldom parts order through the mail and do the maintenance yourself.

" the 5100 seems like a little hot rod " answered your own question right there.

:agree2:
 
See the saws in my sig line. I haven't run a Dolmar 5100 but I have run a Jred 2153 (red version of the Husky 346XP) and a Stihl 026 plenty. Out of the two I would take the Jred any day of the week and twice on Sunday. If you don't have a Jred/Husky dealer nearby the Stihl MS260 will also do the job just not as fast and with as much gusto. Not that the 026 is a bad saw, it is just that the Jred/Husky is THAT GOOD. Try one and you will thank me.
 
Thanks for the Advice...Dolmar vs. Stihl

I considered the Dolmar/Makita 510 option. Parts easily available from any Makita dealer. Good online prices. Chains/Bars would swap with my 6401. And an all-Dolmar 2 saw solution for my firewood needs.

Sounds clean and easy...but no dealer support. I'm on the fence with that...

There's only one Husky dealer nearby, and I'm not wild about them (primarily a rental shop). Not aware of a Jonsered dealer nearby.

It's the dealer proximity thing that has me thinking Stihl. But all these saws are pretty reliable. I just don't know....

A few followup questions:

Dolmar 510 (not 5100S) option:

Seems the 510 is almost a pound heavier than the 5100S. Anyone know why? Any other significant differences between the 5100S and 510, other than a higher-rev'ing, higher-power motor?

Stihl Options:

Lots of recommendations for the 260 Pro (Thanks everyone). Looks similar in specs to the 270 WoodBoss, main difference is weight and price...

260 Pro 10.6lb $530
270 11.7lb $410

Any thoughts on differences and tradeoffs between these two saws. I know one's a consumer saw, one's a pro saw. What are the real differences? I'm willing to consider either one, but $500+ is more than I hope to spend...

Thanks again for everyone's advice!
 
Stihl pro line saws are designed for easier/faster servicing, compared to their more consumer grade product lines.

Stihl has a 7day satisfaction deal, ask the dealer about it.

Stihl dealers, and frankly any dealer should, have some logs out back so you can start the saw from cold, cut with it to see how it feels, and make your mind up from there.

Let us know how your shopping goes.
 
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First choice would be a 346xp. The 5100 is the best bang for the buck. The 260 is an older saw, but it's a "steady Eddy" and it has the Stihl name so many like it if for no other reason.
 
Bailey's has new Makita 6401's (same saw as Dolmar 6400) w/20" bar on sale for $499 and free shipping. Best deal I've ever seen for a 64cc saw.
 
Time for a new saw, I'm thinking.
.....
I'm looking for a saw that's good on the smaller stuff, but also big enough to not need the 6401 until I get to say 10" rounds.

My craftsman saw is great for this. It has a narrow, small radius 18" bar (oregon DG 91), so its easy to cut branches close to the trunk. It's long enough that I can stand most of the time. Its light enough that I can de-branch for an hour without stopping. But its also a cheap Poulin and not without its problems. I usually switch to the 6401 at about 6-8" diameter.

.......

Any other options I should consider? Thanks!!

Getting away from the homeowner type, safety, full skip, low profile chain that came on those saws would be a big help. For about $60 you can change over to a 16" .325 Narrow Kerf bar, chain and rim/drum. Then keep cutting with decent speed to about 12-14 inches.

I have 3-4 similar saws fitted with 16" oregon Pro-Lite bars, Carlton 25NK chain and 7 pin rims that cut 2:1 over what they did with 91VG/VJ/VP chain.

Part of that extra speed was from the muffler mods and retuning the carbs. I did the muffler mod with the original chains trying to gain a little more. But the setup I mentioned cuts far and away faster and smoother in 12" -14" hard wood than the original setup on a stock saw.

Even trying a $20 loop of 91VX on your Craftsman saw will show big improvements over the cutting chain it came with.

Maybe not what you were looking for but I saved $1200 replacing with 3 better B/C's rather then upgrading 3 saws to 346xp's or MS 260's.
 
I really like my ECHO CS370 junked the chain it came with and now that it is broke in it has plenty of power for a 16 inch bar, its very light weight and easy starting. Want something bigger try the CS400.
 
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