Need to rebuild 038 magnum

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Remember clutch is left hand threads.
thanks...was just reading that! very handy bit of info averting disaster...
Failing seals often "look" like they are sound. Pressure/vacuum tests are the gold standard, so to speak. Does pressure make soapy water bubble on the seal? Does vacuum suck light grease or oil into the crankcase?
There are those of us who get as much satisfaction from discovering and fixing problems as we get from the working saw that results from our efforts.
i agree! waiting on the pressure/vac pump still...i am enjoying the learning process
 
ok, uneventfull progress..best tool for the clutch???
 

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Should come off once the e clip has been removed.
Might need to grab with something like vise clamps to pull it off because they can get stuck.

Once the drum is off you might be able to remove the clutch like some legend demonstrates on this video:
 
ok drum is off...left hand thread loosens turning it right,...cant budge it...have a socket on it and tapping it with a wood carving mallet pretty hard...no go...
 

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ok drum is off...left hand thread loosens turning it right,...cant budge it...have a socket on it and tapping it with a wood carving mallet pretty hard...no go...
Try using a rope in the cylinder. You're lucky there's a nut on there. Maybe a very long extension on your ratchet will be useful.
 
Failing seals often "look" like they are sound. Pressure/vacuum tests are the gold standard, so to speak. Does pressure make soapy water bubble on the seal? Does vacuum suck light grease or oil into the crankcase?
There are those of us who get as much satisfaction from discovering and fixing problems as we get from the working saw that results from our efforts.
^^^ that there

Seals are good to replace even if you don't split the case on an older saw. The Stihl gasket set comes with them. Then they are good to go many more years.
 
ok drum is off...left hand thread loosens turning it right,...cant budge it...have a socket on it and tapping it with a wood carving mallet pretty hard...no go...
Rope for piston stop. Deep 1/2" drive 6-point socket with a breaker bar. Get a friend to hold saw and keep torque perpendicular to crank.

Make sure rope is above all ports before you start. Soft nylon braided rope works best for me.
 
I generally use an impact wrench to get the clutch loose...
Sometimes on older "big saw" over 60cc the rope/breaker bar method will not work and you can seriously damage the nut. I have to cut a clutch on an old 038 after damaging the nut.
Now i use a small Makita impact wrench (190 Nm). No more breaker bar for me.
 
Sometimes on older "big saw" over 60cc the rope/breaker bar method will not work and you can seriously damage the nut. I have to cut a clutch on an old 038 after damaging the nut.
Now i use a small Makita impact wrench (190 Nm). No more breaker bar for me.
You screw the nut by using a cheap 12-point and/or not holding the socket in line with crank. Someone needs to hold the saw to do this.

If yer gonna do seals and oil pump, put some propane on the clutch.
 
ok...dodged a bullet tonight...before learning not to put anything into the exhaust port to stop the cylander i put a cloth in and it was cut perfectly...duh....got it out with the hemostats previosly mentioned...found some nylon rope and put in the plug hole and got down to it with a pipe on the socket wrench and the saw in a titon superjaw...when it seems to want to go the clutch springs snap...thats it....torch time???or soak it for awhile with kroil some more????
 
ok...dodged a bullet tonight...before learning not to put anything into the exhaust port to stop the cylander i put a cloth in and it was cut perfectly...duh....got it out with the hemostats previosly mentioned...found some nylon rope and put in the plug hole and got down to it with a pipe on the socket wrench and the saw in a titon superjaw...when it seems to want to go the clutch springs snap...thats it....torch time???or soak it for awhile with kroil some more????
Are you turning righty loosy?
 
ok...dodged a bullet tonight...before learning not to put anything into the exhaust port to stop the cylander i put a cloth in and it was cut perfectly...duh....got it out with the hemostats previosly mentioned...found some nylon rope and put in the plug hole and got down to it with a pipe on the socket wrench and the saw in a titon superjaw...when it seems to want to go the clutch springs snap...thats it....torch time???or soak it for awhile with kroil some more????
I don't think the springs are snapping. Sounds more like the rope is getting compressed enough to let the piston pass TDC. Happens to me probably half the time when I use the rope method, which is why I'll use the impact whenever I can.
 
ok...dodged a bullet tonight...before learning not to put anything into the exhaust port to stop the cylander i put a cloth in and it was cut perfectly...duh....got it out with the hemostats previosly mentioned...found some nylon rope and put in the plug hole and got down to it with a pipe on the socket wrench and the saw in a titon superjaw...when it seems to want to go the clutch springs snap...thats it....torch time???or soak it for awhile with kroil some more????
That would not effect clutch springs at all. They are connected to clutch hub you are taking off just by springs.

Might be not enough rope as later poster said, then piston slipped by. Rope method, put piston just above ex port when going righty on clutch, then stuff as much rope as you can in plug hole.
 
hmmmmmmmmm...still waiting for pump...guessing thats next?
 

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You screw the nut by using a cheap 12-point and/or not holding the socket in line with crank. Someone needs to hold the saw to do this.

If yer gonna do seals and oil pump, put some propane on the clutch.
Not a cheap socket but you're right i was alone and it's hard to hold the socket inline with a 800 mm breaker bar.
 
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