New At It in My Old Age ?

[ropensaddle]

Yeah, thought I'd stop in for a look see, some good threads going, I'll pop by from time to time!

Hi bermie dont be stranger

 

[046]

to other newbies .... DON'T FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS BELOW posted by woodmiser.
someone is going to get killed...

there's been several of these type threads lately with lots of flames.
yes you can ask questions on AS but know who to take advice from.

the best advice is to hook up with a local pro ... offer to drag brush.
then watch how they operate. depending on their insurance, owner may or may not allow you on job site. but it costs you nothing to ask ... if nothing else watch from a distance.

most will help if you simply ask...

don't buy any more gear (except below) until you figure out how/why pro's do what they do.

do buy Jeff Jepson's Tree Climbers Companion and about 15ft of 6mm high grade rope from your local rock climbing store.

then practice the knots listed in Jepson's little book. don't worry not very many knots are mentioned. don't stop until you can tie basic knots blind folded.

when you do finally get your gear... go low and slow
object is not to get your self killed!

To OLD Newbies:

I would like to add a few things to this thread that I have found from my OJT.

Cables: I use 1/4" steel cables from harbor freight. Made up 3 sets 50' each.

Terminations: I use a eyelet/thimble at each cable end. Do not use the stainless clamps though. The stainless is a weaker material, and will often strip the threads before it is tight. I went to northern tool and got the galvanized set for 1/4" cable. YOU MUST USE 3 CLAMPS for every eyelet or the cable will slip. Bummer is that their eyelets are a bit small, and most things won't hook directly through them. Also, be sure to tighten all the nuts before you use them (check at least every day) because when you tension the cable the clamps work loose. I use the flat part of my blue channel lock pliers in between the 2 threads of the "U" to brace it, then tighten with a 1/2" wrench.

Chains: I use 3/8" chains, a 4' piece for the tree, and a 10' piece for anchoring to ground level (stump or another tree). Sometimes it would be nice to have a longer chain for the anchor.

Quick links: I have a bunch of these, 3/8". I had to bump the lower part of the threads on these with a grinder though to skinny them up enough to go through the chain links (My chain has a vinyl coating). They are rated for 2200lbs. I use them to hook everything together. Buy extra!

Winch: I use a 8,000 lb come along type from harbor freight. It only travels about 5' though, so you have to have other ways of taking up the initial slack so you can save the winch travel for pulling the tree. Look for sales and 20% coupons! Usually you can score a free flashlight in the ad too!

Every spot is different, and I always need more adjustment to the cable length than I have. I would also recommend making up several short cables of about 5' so you can get the total length right before you start to winch. The chain is great for some of this adjustment, but it is heavy. I did make up a multi-tap widowmaker cable that has taps every 5', but I wouldn't recommend it.

Also, try to keep the winch closest to the anchor end, because as you tighten it will rise into the air. For the long runs I have placed it closer to the felling tree so save some steps, but it gets harder to winch the higher it goes!

As I said earlier, once my cable is up the tree, and the slack is taken up, I notch the tree in the felling direction. Then I go over and tighten the winch, maybe bowing the tree over a little. Then I return to the tree and cut on the backside about 2-3" above the front notch. I don't go all the way through though, when I see the tree starting to go over I judge its course and deepen the back cut left to make the tree turn right, deepen right to make the tree turn left.

Once the tree is down make sure you know where those cable and chains are when you are cutting! Also, it gets tough to walk and saw with lots of trees down in an area. At least clear out the limbs before it get too deep.

Well, this is what I have found out so far, hope it helps someone. Maybe others will add something constructive to this thread.
-Woodmiser

 

[ropensaddle]

to other newbies .... DON'T FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS BELOW posted by woodmiser.
someone is going to get killed...

there's been several of these type threads lately with lots of flames.
yes you can ask questions on AS but know who to take advice from.

the best advice is to hook up with a local pro ... offer to drag brush.
then watch how they operate. depending on their insurance, owner may or may not allow you on job site. but it costs you nothing to ask ... if nothing else watch from a distance.

most will help if you simply ask...

don't buy any more gear (except below) until you figure out how/why pro's do what they do.

do buy Jeff Jepson's Tree Climbers Companion and about 15ft of 6mm high grade rope from your local rock climbing store.

then practice the knots listed in Jepson's little book. don't worry not very many knots are mentioned. don't stop until you can tie basic knots blind folded.

when you do finally get your gear... go low and slow
object is not to get your self killed!

Hell no.

I use 5/8 steel cable usa with twenty ton pto winch setup on my bucket truck. Why would I use anything else

 

[ripplerider]

Personally I dont like cable for pulling trees- unless it's running to the winch on a bucket truck. Rope is much more forgiving. To the poster who busted on him for steering trees with his backcut- what planet are you from? This is a standard practice thatcan work wonders. Yeah you need to get away from the stump, but get it started the right way before you run. You mentioned trout fishing around Murphy and Andrews. I live in Blairsville, the first town south of Murphy once you get into Ga. P.M. me for some hands on pointers. I just bought a N.C. fishing license so maybe we can trade out fishing holes for knowledge. I run the Nantahala River regularly so I'm up that way a lot.