But you should use the right 2-stroke oil and approved bar oil too.
How'd you get Snelling's picture on that oil?
I don't know how to speak Taiwanese... to tell them to loose the grey paint. If your asking to remove it so we can see, I'll get that done for sure.
Excalibar!
That's what I was going to say. But everything sounds cooler if you put 'extreme,' 'XL,' or numbers after the name... So how about the EXCALIBAR x-treme 3000xl
If we win I'll split the lifetime supply of bars with HuskStihl.
Thanks, but I'm voting for FUBAR!
I don't know how to speak Taiwanese... to tell them to loose the grey paint. If your asking to remove it so we can see, I'll get that done for sure.
Troll,
Taiwan. Maybe we call it the a Tystik?
I'd like to know what kind of stress testing has been done to these new bars and if there is documentation of that.
Obviously with bars and chains things can go south in a hurry should something break when it is not supposed to.
Eric
WEM-PRO or any derivitive stemming from WEM-????
definitely strip the paint and check that the rails are hardened. This will also let you see how many tack welds are holding the laminated layers together. Or just run it and see how long it takes to raise a burr. You will be able to feel if it's soft when you dress it with a file.
Same steel as oregon is not a great selling point!
Even if those numbers were available what are you going to compare them too? Without a baseline those numbers are meaningless. Are you privy to Stihl's testing info for comparison?
WEM-PRO or any derivitive stemming from WEM-????
Even if those numbers were available what are you going to compare them too? Without a baseline those numbers are meaningless. Are you privy to Stihl's testing info for comparison?
Thanks, but I'm voting for FUBAR!
There's also the oriental spelling... fooBar!I'll vote FUBAR too.
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