New child arrived today MS660

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The guy I got it from ran it for 30 minutes tuned to 12500 on 40:1 mix. He told me that I need to go 32:1 when milling. I'm going to run several tanks of just cutting up whatever before I put it in the mill. At that point I'll tune it to 11k on 32:1. I feel those are conservative parameters from what information I have gleaned from this site. That's the plan anyway and will post updates.
 
It looks just like ya :laughing:!! Yep one jackwagons around every turn lol, but seriously nice looking work saw. I want a 660/661 in a bad way and not man enough to pack an 880 around, those are man killers haha. Wouldn't slow me down of tryin though
 
Nice. I'm sure it is a beast. I almost wet myself the first time I used the 461. The 660 and 880 have to be an order of magnitude more fierce.
Let's put it this way, I'm glad I started small. I am not a professional. I have used saws all my life but for the past five years I can count the number of weekends on one hand that I haven't run one. Otherwise I would never consider owning such a high powered saw. But just in case I'll make sure I have a diaper on
 
Ok, just fired it up (stomach virus past few days). Waiting for my wife to bring my bar so I can make some test cuts. But man this thing is like going from a rally car to a top fuel dragster. You can feel it through your feet when it's sitting on the ground. Although there is no decomp valve it is surprisingly easy to start, as long as you finesse it right. Trying to pull it through when things aren't where they want to be in stroke ain't happening. It will try and eat you. I just did a warm up over several minutes with a few stops and restarts. Throttle response off idle is insane, of course it wasn't spinning up a chain but I don't think this thing will notice much when it does this afternoon as it sports it's new Tsumura 24" light weight bar.
 
Ok ran it in some wood today. Throttle response very impressive spinning 84DL. Big advantage over my 562 cutting 20" and greater rounds with no more or less fatigue. Limbing and bucking anything smaller is a different matter. Not once did this saw slow down, spit, sputter, oscillate, or bog when in the wood. As an aside I did Y tube searches for the ms660 to watch how this saw was handled. There must be some conspiracy because 99% of the returns I got were of idiots with dull chains, excessively long bars, poorly tuned saws, poor and dangerous cutting techniques, accidents waiting to happen. I know there are good vids of professional loggers using these saws but for the life of me I just get crap returns in my searches. Sorry for the rant. Will post again once she wakes up and I find some worthy wood
 
Another update FWIW. Last two days dropped about 20 trees, limbed and bucked. HOLY CRAP, there are people that actually use these all day? You have my respect. Anyway, I purchased this saw as a rebuild. I replaced the chain tensioner with OEM and it's much smoother. Next to go is the link for the brake since I am assuming it is also AM, the back of my hand was well bruised after two days of cutting. From what I've read in the Huztl 660 post the AM link requires a longer throw to set. This seems to be what is required to set the brake on this saw. Plus to me it requires too much force to set says the back of my left hand. Not a big deal since it's going in the mill but I want double duty (do not tell wife) and I set the brake a lot cutting the small crap I do (lots of limbs in a tangled up mess). I don't like the sprocket cover at all, too much flex. You have to really loosen the bar nuts until they are not touching the cover to adjust the chain. The saw runs great. I'm letting it run rich right now at 11K because that's probably where I'll tune it for the mill. I really like cutting with this saw but my body doesn't like the weight for the cutting I do. I just need to find some big a$$ logs. Once I've finished with this last gallon of 40:1 I'm going to switch to 32:1 and retune getting it ready for the mill. Once I dedicate this saw to the mill I'll probably have to figure out a way to convince my better half to let me get a 661 for the big stuff. I mean a big tree could fall down right? And the 660 is my milling saw.
 
Oem replacement cases don't have a serial number

True. I believe that the OEM rear handle assembly would have the pictogram for the heated handle switch molded into the plastic, this one does not. I'm not an expert, but in looking at the pic the only two things that I see that I believe are OEM are the recoil and the top cover with the model badge.
 
My 461 is heavy, and more so with the longer bar. The 290 is my go to saw except for the really big stuff. This will my 5th year with it and it seems to be getting stronger all the time.
 
True. I believe that the OEM rear handle assembly would have the pictogram for the heated handle switch molded into the plastic, this one does not. I'm not an expert, but in looking at the pic the only two things that I see that I believe are OEM are the recoil and the top cover with the model badge.
OEM vs AM - I'm sure an OEM saw would be much better quality. Function? I mentioned its' short comings. I've never ran an OEM 660 so I can't compare. Again, the saw runs really well so I'm happy. I hope the money I saved not buying an OEM unit won't translate into longevity issues. Only time will tell.
 
OEM vs AM - I'm sure an OEM saw would be much better quality. Function? I mentioned its' short comings. I've never ran an OEM 660 so I can't compare. Again, the saw runs really well so I'm happy. I hope the money I saved not buying an OEM unit won't translate into longevity issues. Only time will tell.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not making a value judgement at all. I've built several 660 clones and will very likely build more, as well as the newer 440 and 361 clones in the not too distant future.
 
Don't get me wrong, I'm not making a value judgement at all. I've built several 660 clones and will very likely build more, as well as the newer 440 and 361 clones in the not too distant future.
No worries. I appreciate your comments. Since you mentioned building these would an OEM clutch cover be more rigid than AM?
 
I don't know, I've never had my hands on a real one of these.
 
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