New to Me CS-2511t

[Vincent Vega]

Howdy y'all. I picked up a used Echo CS-2511t yesterday. This thing is so lightweight, it's crazy! The previous owner had it for a few years, so I'm thinking I may replace the air filter and spark plug. Are there any other items y'all would recommend looking into for a new to you saw tune up?

One odd thing, it has a 12" .05 bar, but it came with a 3/8" .043 chain on it. Can you run it that way? I always thought your bar and chain gauge had to match...

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

From the factory it should be 3/8LP x 0.050". Maybe the PO bought the wrong 3/8LP chain. I have no idea if this is an unsafe/unwise combination. I think I would get a new chain.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

From the factory it should be 3/8LP x 0.050". Maybe the PO bought the wrong 3/8LP chain. I have no idea if this is an unsafe/unwise combination. I think I would get a new chain.

I don't think I'd tell him to go get a new chain until he knows exactly what bar he has, a lot of guys convert 2511s to 1/4 pitch because they are borderline horrible with the stock bar and chain set up.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

I don't think I'd tell him to go get a new chain until he knows exactly what bar he has, a lot of guys convert 2511s to 1/4 pitch because they are borderline horrible with the stock bar and chain set up.

He knows what bar he has. He said it was .050.

 

[heimannm]

I run a 2511T with 3/8 LP .050 chain and it does fine now that Mitch Weber has worked it over a bit. It was not impressive stock but the 3/8 LP was not the problem.

I would try to locate a spare clutch drum while you have time, they can be hard to locate at times and you pay more when you are in a hurry.



Mark

 

[Vincent Vega]

The previous owner included a new Oregon .050 chain, so I think they may have mistakenly put on the wrong size. I will swap the new chain on so everything matches.

I'm hoping y'all can help educate me on running a 1/4" setup. It seems like the chain speed goes down with a 1/4" pitch chain and 8 tooth sprocket as compared to the 3/8" pitch stock configuration. If not a faster chain speed, what benefit does the 1/4" conversion provide?

Brand	Model	Weight (tool only, lbs)	Bar Length	Chain Speed (FPM)	Chain Speed (FPS)	Chain Pitch	Sprocket	RPM	CC (approx)
Stihl	MS201T	8.16	12-16"	5250.00	87.50	0.375	6	14000	35.2
Stihl	MS194T	7.28	14"	4875.00	81.25	0.375	6	13000	31.8
Echo	CS-2511t	5.2	12"	5025.00	83.75	0.375	6	13400	25
Echo	CS-2511t	5.2	12"	4466.67	74.44	0.25	8	13400	25

 

[esean]

Haven't converted mine, but I think most report the 1/4" cuts smoother but not faster. The stock Oregon chain tends to chatter. I find the Stihl PS/PS3 is smoother and feel no temptation to try 1/4".

 

[heimannm]

I have used several different versions of 3/8 LP and normally have a "safety chain" with the full bumpers ahead of the cutters (bottom one in the photo below) since most of the time I'm using the 2511 from a bucket or basket. Chain without the bumpers can be a bit grabby. I found this photo on Wikipedia, my chains don't look quite so rough as the one below...



My chains are full compliment, not the skip type shown above. You can't even buy the skip in a roll, only loops and I'm not sure they are even producing that type any longer.

Mark

 

[Vincent Vega]

Started cleaning up the saw and removed the muffler. What do y’all think of this piston?

 

[huskihl]

It was lean scored a while ago but has been running a while since then

 

[Vincent Vega]

It was lean scored a while ago but has been running a while since then

Would you advise replacing the piston? I am new to this, and not sure at what point replacement is warranted.

Currently looking into figuring out a better way to seal the air filter to the carburetor.

 

[huskihl]

Would you advise replacing the piston? I am new to this, and not sure at what point replacement is warranted.

Currently looking into figuring out a better way to seal the air filter to the carburetor.

Most would say yes. In the end, the piston is probably fine but it’s the cylinder walls that could use some attention cleaning up and removing the aluminum transfer so the rings can actually seal and make compression

 

[Vincent Vega]

Most would say yes. In the end, the piston is probably fine but it’s the cylinder walls that could use some attention cleaning up and removing the aluminum transfer so the rings can actually seal and make compression

I tested the compression, I am at 85 psi dry. Adding a little bit of oil and retesting, got me to 100 psi. Should these numbers be closer to 150?




I will see about removing the engine block to look at the cylinder.

 

[huskihl]

I tested the compression, I am at 85 psi dry. Adding a little bit of oil and retesting, got me to 100 psi. Should these numbers be closer to 150?

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I will see about removing the engine block to look at the cylinder.

Should be about 180 stock

 

[Vincent Vega]

Should be about 180 stock

Yikes! I’m pretty far off the mark. The saw was running prior to the teardown.

Here is a video of the cylinder.








And a few photos of the piston.






Can y’all help me understand what I am looking at? I see the vertical scoring on the piston, and some vertical scoring on the cylinder wall, along with a missing chunk of metal at one of the openings.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

It was lean scored a while ago but has been running a while since then

Yikes! I’m pretty far off the mark. The saw was running prior to the teardown.

Here is a video of the cylinder.


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And a few photos of the piston.
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Can y’all help me understand what I am looking at? I see the vertical scoring on the piston, and some vertical scoring on the cylinder wall, along with a missing chunk of metal at one of the openings.

 

[ammoaddict]

Looks to me like you need a cylinder and piston.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Looks to me like you need a cylinder and piston.

In his first shots through the port, I thought the same thing, and that his seller knew the saw was bad.

 

[huskihl]

The lines above your exhaust port are bleeding off your compression. And it looks like they’re into your cylinder plating, as opposed to just aluminum transfer that could be removed.

You could try to smooth the area out around your exhaust port but I don’t think you’ll be successful. In that case you’ll need a new piston/cylinder kit

 

[Vincent Vega]

The lines above your exhaust port are bleeding off your compression. And it looks like they’re into your cylinder plating, as opposed to just aluminum transfer that could be removed.

You could try to smooth the area out around your exhaust port but I don’t think you’ll be successful. In that case you’ll need a new piston/cylinder kit

Thanks for all the insight so far. Sounds like things aren't looking good however.

So to try and save the cylinder, I would need to smooth the area shown in the photo below? But if the scratches are too deep into the cylinder wall, it will prevent the ring from sealing, and I'll continue to have low compression.



I have a few questions. How is it that the saw was able to run and cut with such low compression? Any chance the reported compression is lower than what it actually is? I used a Mityvac MV5530 tester - which I typically use for motorcycles. The gauge, with adapters, was about 12" long. I've heard an overly long length of tubing can report lower values.

Looking at a cylinder and piston kit, I will end up into this saw what a new one costs.