New to me MS260 & question

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Snowd

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Picked up a ms 260 yesterday for a decent price. Good compression, just had carb rebuilt and tuned. Came with new rs chain & used rs chain, bar was rough so picked a new one up today. I've read on here that these are pretty decent saws, now is there anything I need to watch for on it? One thing I noticed is it pumps out oil like no tomorrow (compared to my 290) is this normal?
Thanks

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gas it up and run it..
hard to tell by your pictures if it has a decomp button or not.....
the one i have made a trip to tennessee for surgery,,,,,,that little saw is awesome..
yours could be like mine and does'nt have the adjustable oiler so it's oiling constantly, not just when the clutch is engaged........mine will be changed....
 
Air filters on these need to be cleaned often; I have two that I rotate. Sometimes it takes washing them out in warm soapy water to clean thoroughly. Keep the chain super sharp and the depth gauges (rakers) adjusted. The standard MS260 oiler will pump oil even when the motor is idling and the chain is not moving. IIRC, the standard oiler can be replaced with an adjustable one, which operates only when the clutch is engaged.
 
Look on the bottom and see if there is a hole with an arrow near it. If there is, that's your oil adjuster. If not, you can't adjust it.
 
It does not have the decomp button and if the oiler is pumping at idle that explains it, I'll look to see if it has the hole with the arrow on the bottom like my 290 does. If it does not have the adjustable oiler, how hard is it to convert it and is it worth it?

Thanks for the tip on the air filters, I'll pick up 1 to keep as a backup. I've recently started sharpening my own chains, bit of a learning curve but i'm getting there. The last chain I took in to be sharpened they sharpened at the wrong angle. I started cutting and it didn't seem right, put my file up to it and the file wouldn't seat in the cutter. I took it back and the ground half the cutter off fixing it. Lesson learned - sharpen my own damn chains.

Thanks fellas
 
Look on the bottom and see if there is a hole with an arrow near it. If there is, that's your oil adjuster. If not, you can't adjust it.
mine has the hole with arrow, but the oil pump is not adjustable,,,,,,,theres nothing there,,,,...
far as i know the switch requires, pump, worm gear, and clutch drum ????
 
It does not have the decomp button and if the oiler is pumping at idle that explains it, I'll look to see if it has the hole with the arrow on the bottom like my 290 does. If it does not have the adjustable oiler, how hard is it to convert it and is it worth it?

Thanks for the tip on the air filters, I'll pick up 1 to keep as a backup. I've recently started sharpening my own chains, bit of a learning curve but i'm getting there. The last chain I took in to be sharpened they sharpened at the wrong angle. I started cutting and it didn't seem right, put my file up to it and the file wouldn't seat in the cutter. I took it back and the ground half the cutter off fixing it. Lesson learned - sharpen my own damn chains.

Thanks fellas

Somebody owes you. And ... I guarantee the depth gauges need attention after such tooth-ectomy.
Waaay back when (mid-'70s) I heard of such a thing with a friend at his stihl dealer. Figured I'd better learn NOW to sharpen my own chains. Sure glad I did. One thing I learned about early on was to use a file guide like Granberg's. Still have, and use, the same one. Once you get squared-away on the basics, touching up a chain is trivially simple.

It is also possible to learn how to use Northern Tools better grinder to do a nice job with min metal removal. Why bother, when you can file your chains, you ask. Rocks and bolts and wire happen. You might also want to even up the cutters once or twice in the life of a chain. On special, with additional 1/8" and 3/16" Molemab wheels, good bang for the buck.
 

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