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For this year my buddy has a splitter and he's gonna come over with his splitter and help me split. If I could get any of these guys to call me back I'd have logs already.

I talked to the seller at closing and he said the stove is a really old one. Apparently it was put in when the house was built (or at least by the first owner). When the guy I got it from bought the house the stove was pretty rough and had sat outside for many years. He built a shed around it and then reinsulated it and put new metal side on it. I'm not sure how many years these things are supposed to last but hopefully it's got quite a few more years left in it.

I figure with the saw I know where it came from, it hasn't been abused and I know it's been taken care of. He's also giving me three chains with it so that's a little bonus.
 
Well this afternoon I got my call back from the second out of 10 logging companies I have called. Said they had a truck loaded and could have it there in an hour. $700 a load. I told em get it coming and I'd take two loads. Mixture of cherry, maple, oak and a little ash. Second load is coming tomorrow, should give me about 12 full cords. Now I get to cut and split it all. This 90 degree weather every day should help it dry by the time I need to burn it.
 
Well this afternoon I got my call back from the second out of 10 logging companies I have called. Said they had a truck loaded and could have it there in an hour. $700 a load. I told em get it coming and I'd take two loads. Mixture of cherry, maple, oak and a little ash. Second load is coming tomorrow, should give me about 12 full cords. Now I get to cut and split it all. This 90 degree weather every day should help it dry by the time I need to burn it.

Cool man! Split this years a little smaller, the load for next year split normally. Unless those 12 cords are all for this winter!
 
Start "shopping" craigslist free adds for the pine and fir trees that most people on the east cost think are junk and "dangerous" to burn.

Welcome to the site.

If you don't have a twisted sense of humor, develop one fast or some feelings may get stepped on!

So true! We love to joke around on here.
 
Cool man! Split this years a little smaller, the load for next year split normally. Unless those 12 cords are all for this winter!

Ha yeah. I was only planning on 10 full cords but former owners told me they went through 12 so I figured I better get at least that.
 
Welcome To AS! I would get the 18 wheeler of logs for and get a saw and splitter and do it all yourself. You will save yourself money in the log run and after that one load you will have 10 cords then you could scavenge on craigslist and ask around for any wood that neighbors need removed etc. You could then get 2 more cords doing that! Good luck and happy cutting!
 
First load arrived Wednesday. Local logging company called me from job site and said they had just loaded a truck and it was closer for them to go to my house than back to their place. $700 a load delivered, cherry, maple, little oak and a little ash. I said bring two!

120718_0000.jpg



120718_0001.jpg



Second load came today

120720_0000.jpg


Should be about 12 full cords



Now to get cutting and splitting......I cut a little bit today but my chain is getting pretty dull. I could sharpen it but I have no idea what I'm doing. I think I'm just gonna get a couple new ones. What chain should I be using on my MS310?
 
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The one that matches the color of the dot on your bar. If your going to do wood, you have to teach yourself how to sharpen a chain. It is essential. Local stihl dealer should have a kit and advice.
 
First load arrived Wednesday. Local logging company called me from job site and said they had just loaded a truck and it was closer for them to go to my house than back to their place. $700 a load delivered, cherry, maple, little oak and a little ash. I said bring two!

120718_0000.jpg



120718_0001.jpg



Second load came today

120720_0000.jpg


Should be about 12 full cords



Now to get cutting and splitting......I cut a little bit today but my chain is getting pretty dull. I could sharpen it but I have no idea what I'm doing. I think I'm just gonna get a couple new ones. What chain should I be using on my MS310?

Your dealer will probably suggest Stihl RMC..
That's a semi-chisel chain and lasts pretty well when there's dirt on the wood.
Pick up a file and guide while you're at it, unless you just don't want to mess with it. You could just get 3 or 4 loops and run a couple to the dealer for sharpening while you're cutting with the others...
But learning to file yourself is the best way, and worth the time it takes to learn...
There are vids on Stihl's web site that are quite useful on how to sharpen a chain.
 
Do you really only need to file going one way and make sure you use the same number of strokes? Some guys at work were saying you don't need to do it that way.
 
Do you really only need to file going one way and make sure you use the same number of strokes? Some guys at work were saying you don't need to do it that way.

It helps to keep the cutters consistent... But, there are those who look at each cutter as it's own little being. But no matter how much they've filed on each tooth, they keep the raker depth the same in relation to the tooth.
 
I am suprised that no one mentioned that you could get a few cords of seasoned wood to start out with, giving the greener wood more time to dry out. The air movement through the wood also dries it although not as fast as the heat. But if you have say 4 cord of seasoned wood to start with then it gives the other wood that much more time to dry.
 
I said it before and I'll say it again, burn it and don't worry about "seasoning" it. In fact, with as small diameter as those logs are, you can saw to length and don't need to split.

I would saw them to length, split only for convenience as necessary, and then stack it all close to the boiler door.
 
As a beginner I would recomend a file guide. I prefer either the Husqvarna model or the Bahco/Windsor model. You can find them here at a site sponsor Bailey's - Files & Accessories > Filing Guides & Kits. I find the oregon model a :potstir: and definately donot recomend them. Freehanding is going to produce disapointing results if you are not experienced.
I have had good results with the el cheapo plastic electric grinders, but then again I only use them after major "enemy" contact. Or a friend brings over a totally dull chain.
While at the store get a few plastic wedges. They are very important in reducing the risk of pinching a chain and bar. Don't use steel! Your chain and possilby you will suffer from potential kick back! You will notice that if the wood is dirty your chain will dull very quick. I use a axe for "cleaning", 2 strokes left and right and the wood is clean. All of the wood I would split at least once with a simple splitting axe. It will dry so much faster. And your wife will enjoy your new muscles..... :msp_scared:. I donot put the rounds on the splitting block for single splitting. I just split them where they are lying after cutting. Just put the round lously between your feet a one strike is enough.

7

edit: just saw the site sponsor has a direct link to the husqvarna video on how to use the file guide.
 
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Even if you bought the most expensive file AND guide on the market, they will pay for themselves over the life of one chain...in time and money saved in running it to the saw shop/hardware store, paying for the sharpening up front, going back home and waiting to be called that it is done, then running back over there, and coming home once more to put it on the saw...only to run it into the dirt once by accident and have to start all over again. The key to sharpening and getting good is to do it before the chain needs it. Have a new chain on hand so you can see what the cutters are supposed to look like. Give your used chain a touch up every time you stop for gas/oil. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to get a muffed chain back into shape while you are still trying to learn what you are doing. Watch the file closely and when it starts to get "glassy" (the file stops removing metal) give it a few taps on something hard to get it cutting again. Remember,sharpen early and often in order to throw the big chips!
 
I am suprised that no one mentioned that you could get a few cords of seasoned wood to start out with, giving the greener wood more time to dry out. The air movement through the wood also dries it although not as fast as the heat. But if you have say 4 cord of seasoned wood to start with then it gives the other wood that much more time to dry.

I have a small quantity of wood that the previous owners left me. About two face cords but this is the majority of the wood I'll be burning this year. Maybe next year I'll have time to get ahead but this year it wasn't in the cards or the budget.

I said it before and I'll say it again, burn it and don't worry about "seasoning" it. In fact, with as small diameter as those logs are, you can saw to length and don't need to split.

I would saw them to length, split only for convenience as necessary, and then stack it all close to the boiler door.

Yeah most I won't be splitting. There is a few bigger ones in there that I will probably just split in half and call it good

As a beginner I would recomend a file guide. I prefer either the Husqvarna model or the Bahco/Windsor model. You can find them here at a site sponsor Bailey's - Files & Accessories > Filing Guides & Kits. I find the oregon model a :potstir: and definately donot recomend them. Freehanding is going to produce disapointing results if you are not experienced.
I have had good results with the el cheapo plastic electric grinders, but then again I only use them after major "enemy" contact. Or a friend brings over a totally dull chain.
While at the store get a few plastic wedges. They are very important in reducing the risk of pinching a chain and bar. Don't use steel! Your chain and possilby you will suffer from potential kick back! You will notice that if the wood is dirty your chain will dull very quick. I use a axe for "cleaning", 2 strokes left and right and the wood is clean. All of the wood I would split at least once with a simple splitting axe. It will dry so much faster. And your wife will enjoy your new muscles..... :msp_scared:. I donot put the rounds on the splitting block for single splitting. I just split them where they are lying after cutting. Just put the round lously between your feet a one strike is enough.

Even if you bought the most expensive file AND guide on the market, they will pay for themselves over the life of one chain...in time and money saved in running it to the saw shop/hardware store, paying for the sharpening up front, going back home and waiting to be called that it is done, then running back over there, and coming home once more to put it on the saw...only to run it into the dirt once by accident and have to start all over again. The key to sharpening and getting good is to do it before the chain needs it. Have a new chain on hand so you can see what the cutters are supposed to look like. Give your used chain a touch up every time you stop for gas/oil. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to get a muffed chain back into shape while you are still trying to learn what you are doing. Watch the file closely and when it starts to get "glassy" (the file stops removing metal) give it a few taps on something hard to get it cutting again. Remember,sharpen early and often in order to throw the big chips!

I'll definitely be getting a guide. At least until I get better at doing it myself. I also have two spare chains ready to go in case I run into problems. Thanks guys!
 
First load arrived Wednesday. Local logging company called me from job site and said they had just loaded a truck and it was closer for them to go to my house than back to their place. $700 a load delivered, cherry, maple, little oak and a little ash. I said bring two!

120718_0000.jpg



120718_0001.jpg



Second load came today

120720_0000.jpg


Should be about 12 full cords



Now to get cutting and splitting......I cut a little bit today but my chain is getting pretty dull. I could sharpen it but I have no idea what I'm doing. I think I'm just gonna get a couple new ones. What chain should I be using on my MS310?


Wow! That's how you cut firewood! I sure love that sight! I sure would like a load. Probably would take me 3 or 4 years to burn it all though...sure would be fun to cut and split! Congrats!
I would be happier with a load of hard wood than a new truck!
 
Well the chain that was on the saw was ok for a couple logs bet then she was getting whooped. The guy that I got the saw from also gave me 3 other spare chains but they were duller than hell too. Being that I have no idea really how to sharpen a chain I loaded up the chains and the saw and headed to the local hardware store. It happens to be owned by an old guy that is friend of the family. He fixed me right up. Sharpened two of my chains on his Oregon bench grinder right there so I could get back to cutting. He's gonna hit the other three tomorrow probably and I'll stop back and pick them up. Also when I come back he's gonna have a 7/32 file and guide waiting for me. Apparently the one I was given to go with the saw was 5/32 which might explain why the chains were all dull :laugh:

I ended up being there for about an hour. He showed me step by step how to file the chain the right way, cleaning the bar and taking the edge off it and just some other general saw maintenance. Guy sure does know his way around a saw.
 
You may want to take a good look at this for sharpening chain ...

Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener |Sharpen Your Chainsaw

I have file guides, Oregon electric grinder and this.

I only hand file to touch up.

Use the Timberline with a battery drill at low speed to give a factory edge.

The electric grinder is only used with rocked chains that need a lot of attention.

Faster to swap out the chain when it is dull. Maintaining the edge before it gets dull is the trick.
 
Wow that looks like a handy little tool! I'm just scared I'll do more damage by not setting it up right. I think the guy told me my chain is 28 degrees. Does that sound right? Although maybe 30 degrees wouldn't make any difference from 28 degrees.
 
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