New to wood burning

[Cheesecutter]

Okay so the chimney installer came today and he told me he will do a 90° elbow 2 ft above the stove through the wall thimble than a 4 foot horiizontal run to the tee. Then straight up passed the gutter with wall brackets. There will be no 30° offsets passed the gutter. He will go up 18 ft straight up passed the glitter from the tee. I think that will help with draft.

That should work well. One question though... If he goes up 18 feet from the TEE will it be too high to clean easily? I would go about 4-5 feet maximum above the roof so I could reach over top of the pipe to run a brush through it it.

 

[Treemoss]

That should work well. One question though... If he goes up 18 feet from the TEE will it be too high to clean easily? I would go about 4-5 feet maximum above the roof so I could reach over top of the pipe to run a brush through it it.

I will be cleaning from the tee up.

 

[philoshop]

Glad to hear you've got the pipe worked out, and it sounds like a good plan. :msp_thumbup:

I just reread your OP, and if you're still looking for a stove you might check out the USStoves at TSC. They're made in China, but they work and they're fairly inexpensive. I bought mine mainly because of the price, thinking I'd upgrade when I had the funds. At one-third the cost of an American-made stove it was one that I could afford, it was the middle of February, and I was cold. Haven't given a thought to replacing it over the past two and a half winters because it works for me. Just a thought.

 

[Treemoss]

Glad to hear you've got the pipe worked out, and it sounds like a good plan. :msp_thumbup:

I just reread your OP, and if you're still looking for a stove you might check out the USStoves at TSC. They're made in China, but they work and they're fairly inexpensive. I bought mine mainly because of the price, thinking I'd upgrade when I had the funds. At one-third the cost of an American-made stove it was one that I could afford, it was the middle of February, and I was cold. Haven't given a thought to replacing it over the past two and a half winters because it works for me. Just a thought.

I think I will be getting the napoleon 1450. Or maybe 1400pl. I think this will be a good stove for my 1200 sq ft home. I just hope it will be very efficient. Also That I won't burn a lot of wood with the secondary's burning. What do you think about the osburn 2200 or 2300.

 

[Fyrebug]

I think I will be getting the napoleon 1450. Or maybe 1400pl. I think this will be a good stove for my 1200 sq ft home. I just hope it will be very efficient. Also That I won't burn a lot of wood with the secondary's burning. What do you think about the osburn 2200 or 2300.

We make the Osburn brand so I'm a bit biased...:msp_wink:

However, with Osburn the Ashpan always comes standard. Warranty on the glass is lifetime even if you brake it by accident (nobody else has this), Lifetime warranty on the burn tubes even if you overfire (nobody else has this), 5/16" top plate steel, smoothest cam & roller door mechanism, C Cast baffle etc...

The Osburn 2200 is the only 'true' bay window wood burner left on the market. It has a beautiful fire and retails starts at $2,200 kitted black. Blower is extra. I burn the 1800 which is the 2200 baby brother.

The Osburn 2300 is our best seller. Big & deep 3.1 cu ft fire box. a favorite with serious wood burner since you can burn wood North/South and a bypass damper to make sure you have a good draft. It comes standard with Ash pan & Blower and retails starts below $2,000.

Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes and it doesnt happen if you dont post pictures.

 

[Treemoss]

We make the Osburn brand so I'm a bit biased...:msp_wink:

However, with Osburn the Ashpan always comes standard. Warranty on the glass is lifetime even if you brake it by accident (nobody else has this), Lifetime warranty on the burn tubes even if you overfire (nobody else has this), 5/16" top plate steel, smoothest cam & roller door mechanism, C Cast baffle etc...

The Osburn 2200 is the only 'true' bay window wood burner left on the market. It has a beautiful fire and retails starts at $2,200 kitted black. Blower is extra. I burn the 1800 which is the 2200 baby brother.

The Osburn 2300 is our best seller. Big & deep 3.1 cu ft fire box. a favorite with serious wood burner since you can burn wood North/South and a bypass damper to make sure you have a good draft. It comes standard with Ash pan & Blower and retails starts below $2,000.

Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes and it doesnt happen if you dont post pictures.[/

Do they have a secondary air burning system like the Napoleons. What is the wall clearance on the back of the stove to combustibles for both stoves. I would need about 6 inches because of my room size. I could get the 2200 for about $1500. The 2300 for about 1700. Not bad prices at all. But here's the real deal. I can get the Napoleon 1450 for $800 delivered to my house. Not a bad deal for a good stove. But I do like all three. Just seeing which one would be best for my application.

 

[Locust Cutter]

Hello everyone, I just joined so I might have alot of questions. I am new to wood-burning and woodstoves. I have a split level house that is about 1200 ft.². It was built in the 50s and is not that airtight. I am sort of on a budget so I am Going to Get the Napoleon 1450 independent stove. But I see this is good for 800 to over 2000 ft.² is this stove overkill for my house. Also Is this stove a good stove. Because of the size of the stove will I be burning it low and building up more creosote. Also the vent pipe will be going outside out of the wall with Double insulated stainless steel. It has 2 90° elbows and 2 30° offsets Passed the Gutter peak for about 20 feet total Length. It only has 14 feet vertical Length. Is this good enough or will I have draft problems. Also will there be a lot of creosote Buildup in the pipe Because of all the offsets and elbows. I will be burning 100% seasoned wood oak Mostly. Any information will be helpful information since I am very new to wood-burning and wood-burning stoves thank you.

Welcome! As far as size goes, I agree with Fyrebug in that it's better to have a smaller stove working burning correctly than a larger one burning at "idle". I love the stove I have but referring to your concerns about your house's efficiency, I'll give my for instance and you can judge from there. I have the largest of the 3 stoves that Pacific Energy makes. It produces wonderful heat and is very thrifty. I'm heating a 2-story 2700sqft farmhouse (the original part of the house was built circa 1880) which is only half-insulated, leaks badly and has horrible air flow due to the almost compartmentalized way that the rooms are arranged. The stove is situated on the main floor in the lvg rm (14'x25') at the far end. The floor plan is basically a big horseshoe which then accesses the bathroom, dining room, kitchen and laundry room. The upstairs is a basic N/S rectangle. In the Winter, when the temp is 32 or less, I can have the lvg rm around 80f and the kitchen around the corner will be about 68f. The upstairs varies. I do not in the least regret purchasing my stove as it has cut down (with the assisstance of a new much more efficient Central heater and new insulation on 2 sides of the house) my yearly propane bill from around $3800 to about $1600. The only way to reduce my heating costs further is to insulate the other 2 sides and replace my doors and windows... The water is electric and only the CH and the Kitchen stove are propane.

I dont care if its cat non-cat all I want is to make sure I have a good draft and a proper running stove. I don't want smoke issues and bad Creosote problems.
But I feel I'm going to have problems with my offsets and 45s and I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't put in a stove now.

On my installation, I should have just done a 90 through the wall then a 90 clean-out T and up. Instead I have 4-45's and cannot clean it w/o a whip. My stove is a non-cat EPA style. I usually burn piss elm, Silver Maple and Hackleberry in the shoulder seasons. During Winter I burn Hedge, Locust, Ash and several species of Oak.

I finally had the flue cleaned last year after 2 years of burning. There was less ash and creosote in there than what my Father's old smoke dragon insert produces in a month just burning clean, dry Hedge... I also use about 1/8-1/6 the amount of wood for the same heat output. The cat stoves will throw more heat, longer and more evenly, but the fire looks horrible and when the Cat cracks out, you're done burning until you replace it. I'll stick with a Non-Cat.

Dry wood is mandatory and if your going to burn very hard wood, like Hedge or similar, you might find it handy to mix in some porous soft-wood which is oxygen-dense to aid in a more complete combustion. Good luck and safe burning!

 

[Treemoss]

Thanks for the advice, I am looking at the nap 1450 because of price and heat output. The room is 400 sq ft that the stove is in and the room next to it is 200 sq ft with no walls open layout. The stairs are going up are about 14ft in front of the stove to another 600 Sq ft of bed rooms.all rooms 8 ft ceilings. I also have that dormer above the stove that is 800 sq ft with 10 ft ceilings. i will try vents in the down stairs ceiling to try and bring up the heat there. So I feel that for the price and layout this stove should do fine. About the 90 compared the the 2 45's, you think that would be the better setup with the cleaning of the chimney.

 

[Fyrebug]

Do they have a secondary air burning system like the Napoleons. What is the wall clearance on the back of the stove to combustibles for both stoves. I would need about 6 inches because of my room size. I could get the 2200 for about $1500. The 2300 for about 1700. Not bad prices at all. But here's the real deal. I can get the Napoleon 1450 for $800 delivered to my house. Not a bad deal for a good stove. But I do like all three. Just seeing which one would be best for my application.

Yes, All non-Cat's use secondary burns. Sounds like a good deal for the Nap.

All the specs are available on the links I posted earlier:

2200 5" back clearance with Double Wall stove Pipe
2300 6" back clearance with Double Wall stove Pipe

 

[Locust Cutter]

Thanks for the advice, I am looking at the nap 1450 because of price and heat output. The room is 400 sq ft that the stove is in and the room next to it is 200 sq ft with no walls open layout. The stairs are going up are about 14ft in front of the stove to another 600 Sq ft of bed rooms.all rooms 8 ft ceilings. I also have that dormer above the stove that is 800 sq ft with 10 ft ceilings. i will try vents in the down stairs ceiling to try and bring up the heat there. So I feel that for the price and layout this stove should do fine. About the 90 compared the the 2 45's, you think that would be the better setup with the cleaning of the chimney.

As long as the initial pipe coming off of the stove is at least 3-4' you should be fine. Hell some of the stoves still come with a horizontal exhaust opening... It's not the end of the world, but subtle things can mitigate their negative effect on airflow. For your area you'd probably be just fine with a large stove, but moderation is a virtue sometimes. The medium-range applications may be just what you need. If I had all-new windows/doors, full insulation throughout the walls and attics and a bit under the floors, I could probably get away with a smaller stove or at bit less fuel consumption throughout the winter (wood and Propane) but all in all, I'm much happier now than before. Now it's just time and money.:bang:

 

[Treemoss]

As long as the initial pipe coming off of the stove is at least 3-4' you should be fine. Hell some of the stoves still come with a horizontal exhaust opening... It's not the end of the world, but subtle things can mitigate their negative effect on airflow. For your area you'd probably be just fine with a large stove, but moderation is a virtue sometimes. The medium-range applications may be just what you need. If I had all-new windows/doors, full insulation throughout the walls and attics and a bit under the floors, I could probably get away with a smaller stove or at bit less fuel consumption throughout the winter (wood and Propane) but all in all, I'm much happier now than before. Now it's just time and money.:bang:

The pipe is only going up 2ft off the stove. They say the 1450 is a medium stove. I thought the 1900 was over kill. I know it will be better then 4.20 a gallon of oil. I hope I only use about 2 cords a winter tho.

 

[Cheesecutter]

I know it will be better then 4.20 a gallon of oil. I hope I only use about 2 cords a winter tho.

Not to rain on your parade, but 2 cords seems pretty optimistic for a 1200 sq.ft. non-airtight house in New York. As your primary heat, offhand I would guess at least 4 if not 5 cords to be more realistic.

 

[Treemoss]

Not to rain on your parade, but 2 cords seems pretty optimistic for a 1200 sq.ft. non-airtight house in New York. As your primary heat, offhand I would guess at least 4 if not 5 cords to be more realistic.

What What What, Really 4 to 5 cords. I thought 2 to 3 the most. It's only in the low 30's by me all winter. If that's true I better get cutting for the next 2 years straight if I want wood for the next couple of years.

 

[Locust Cutter]

What What What, Really 4 to 5 cords. I thought 2 to 3 the most. It's only in the low 30's by me all winter. If that's true I better get cutting for the next 2 years straight if I want wood for the next couple of years.

Granted I have a larger stove than you have and am heating a bit over twice the area you are, but depending on your ambient temperature comfort level (and the Boss's) you should plan on 3-5 on the conservative side. I burned 4-5 last season and it wasn't a hard winter. Now, I burned a lot at a slow pace which isn't the most efficient for a non-cat stove, but whenever I went outside, if the thought went through my head that it was a bit chilly, I lit the stove. I burned a bit of wood, but I saved a lot of propane. I also sell between 6-10 cords/year which covers the cost of mine with money left over for main't and supplies. Of course I do not figure labor as I would be in the hole before I started... Even if I paid 150/cord, I'd be money ahead... Food for thought. It's definitely worth it, but there is no magic bullet and there are damn sure no free lunches... Not to burst the bubble. I just want to make sure that you're going into this with realistic expectations so you're not let down by not being able to heat your house for a relative pittance.

 

[zogger]

What What What, Really 4 to 5 cords. I thought 2 to 3 the most. It's only in the low 30's by me all winter. If that's true I better get cutting for the next 2 years straight if I want wood for the next couple of years.

I burn around 4 cord down here in Georgia. BUT..that is a smoke dragon, an extremely ancient and leaky cabin, and a lot of that wood is "lesser species".

And we have a long burning season because Garden Goddess has zero tolerance for cool, let alone cold.