New Use for A Curtain Rod.

[Bruce Hopf]

I finally figured out haw to make and install a Measuring Device to mark with a Chain Saw. I mounted a Piece of Curtain Rod onto one of my McCulloch Mini Macs, that I can Adjust to different lengths for Fire Wood.
I used to use a Hatchet, with a Marking Stick, but half the time, you could not see the mark left from the Hatchet. Then I used a Mini Mac, with one hand, while holding a Marking Stick, with the other. I didn't like that method.
Last night while throwing a Block of Fire wood into the Furnace, I found a Curtain Rod in the Shape of an I. I also found some Mounting Brackets, to mount the Curtain Rod to the wall.
I took a Mounting Bracket, and had to grind it down on both sides to make it fit, in the groove under the Chain Saw. I removed the Bolt that holds the Face Plate on the Chain Saw, and with a longer Bolt, I attached the Mounting Bracket to the Chain Saw.
I then put a Mounting Bracket on the end of the Curtain Rod, and installed the Curtain Rod to the Chain Saw. I measured 12" on both sides of the Bar, Marked the Curtain Rod on both sides of the Mounting Bracket, that is attached to the Chain Saw, so I don't have to keep measuring where to put the Curtain Rod, when I remove it, and put it back on.
I cut the Curtain Rod to length, drilled a 1/4" hole in both ends of the Curtain Rod. I then got 2, 1/4" x 3" long Bolts, and 4, 1/4 Nuts from the Shop. I inserted both Bolts into the Bench Vice, and bent them almost to a 45 Degree angle, and cut the heads off the Bolts, and ground off the Burrs.
With a Nut on either side of the Curtain Rod, I installed the Bolts with the bend up, so that the Bolts stick up past the Bottom of the Bar.
I took some Pictures to show what I did. Bruce.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

Here is some more Pictures of what I done. Bruce.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

Here it is Mounted on the Chain Saw. Bruce.

 

[Bill G]

Last weekend at the Midwest GTG Brncreeper was using one on a small Husky. It looked a bit odd but worked VERY well. I belive it came from Bailey's. I am considering one to use on a small saw for marking.

Bill

 

[bluequill56]

Neat concept. I never cease to amaze myself with my inability to accurately estimate my target 16" cut. Keep threatening to order one of these:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200320749_200320749

....but once I've got an open order form going, I'm scared I'll 'accidentally' enter the item # for a log splitter......

 

[turnkey4099]

I made one for my Husky 51 (and a couple others prior to that model). 1/8"x3/4" flat bar, bent in "L" and drilled to fit the bar mount bolts. A great aid when limbing as a mark 1 eyeball guages 16" different on small stuff and big stuff. Eyeballing I am all the way from 20" down to about 12".

One of those gauges is great but they do get in the way. I have gotten used to working around the drawback so rarely have it off the saw.

The answer to mounting/demounting one is to forget making your own and purchase one. They have them with magnetic base that sticks to the bar. Quick on/off.

Dunno why I didn't by one years ago.
Harry K

 

[stevethekiwi]

im confused.


why do you need this?


stk

 

[pbtree]

Cool!

 

[Dennis_Peacock]

....but once I've got an open order form going, I'm scared I'll 'accidentally' enter the item # for a log splitter......

ROFL!!!!! :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[stevethekiwi]

aaahhh ok just clicked on the northern tool link, i see what your doing now.



ive always just used the eyecrometer


stk

 

[Bruce Hopf]

I like the looks of the one from Northern Tool, but it has only one length, for each unit you can use, or buy other lengths. With the one I made, you can adjust up to close to 24", by loosening the Clamp on the Wall Mounting Bracket for the Curtain Rod, and slide it to the desired cutting length. The bolts on the ends, just drop into the previous marking cut, and so on. You don't have to judge where the end is.

 

[stihlboy]

Or you could buy this northern tool part number 11820-1902

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

Seems clumsy... but its your saw.


I mark a spot on my bar, then use it for an impromptu measuring stick. Once I get a few cut I can keep an eyeball on it and stay close

 

[MR4WD]

I use a 25' tape and a skinning knife or screwdriver. Score the bark with a line every 16" or whatever and then cut. 9 times out of 10 I'll just cut wherever looks good because I don't really care, but sometimes it's easier to load even length wood when you can get 2 cord out of 1 tree.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hey Bruce that is a novel idea but it can be cumbersome and bends easily. A good friend of mine cannot judge distances at all and I made him up a guide that mounts to his bar. I used one of the orange plastic whips that are primarily used in the pulpwood industry and bolted to the rear handle of the chainsaw. Took the bracket and bent it 90 deg.,drilled a hole in the bar and mounted it with a through bolt and nut,cut it to 16" and you have a flexable length guide. He has since mounted one on each side of the bar and can cut without hesitation and don`t need a tape or marking tool. Now I have seen several local fellows using this setup.
PIONEERGUY600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thought that I might add that I have mounted a couple of laser sites to chainsaws and they are better as they do not protrude from the chainsaw and are compact unit.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Poley4]

Seems clumsy... but its your saw.


I mark a spot on my bar, then use it for an impromptu measuring stick. Once I get a few cut I can keep an eyeball on it and stay close

+1 but if it is that important to get the lengths correct, this seems like to me would be the best option.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=265&catID=246

 

[woodyman]

Looks like a very inventive thing you came up with I always liked people that are trying to improve what they have,I have meet alot of people that could not chew gum and walk at the same time let alone modify something. My stove can take up to a 18" long piece and most of my cutting is done with a 16" bar and 16" long seems to work good in stove so I just use the bar to measure.If I get into bigger stuff and use my longer bar I just have a line scratched into the bar or you can drill a hole.I can go 18",17" or smaller all will burn.Looked at those things that bolt to the stud but thought they would get in the way.

 

[brncreeper]

Last weekend at the Midwest GTG Brncreeper was using one on a small Husky. It looked a bit odd but worked VERY well. I belive it came from Bailey's. I am considering one to use on a small saw for marking.

Bill

I made this with a threaded rod, some O-rings, nylon stop nuts, and a cd. It works well for laying out 16" witness marks on a log prior to bucking it.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

With mine, mine is mounted right on the Power Head itself. I can cut on both sides of the Bar, and I can start at either end of the log. It works real well for cutting the Limb Wood as well. I just mark the Limbs, pull the Chain Saw back enough so that my guides clear, the Limb, and cut it right through.
I don't have to take it off the Chain Saw, until I'm finished for the Day, then I take it off, so that the Chain Saw does not take up too much room in my Chain Saw Carrying Box, that I have to carry my Chain Saws to the Bush, with my Loader Tractor.
Bruce.