Newbie 066 Project saw

[NuggyBuggy]

Finally, here's some pictures of the bottom end.

This picture shows the space between the center part of the crankshaft (that goes to the piston) and the two "arms" that surround it. (If there's better terms for me to use, please let me know).
Also, the two arms in this aspect seem to look different from each other - the right one has a sort of cross hatching and the left one seems to have some vertical machining marks. Should they look the same or be symmetrical ?

Not sure if this is normal or acceptable for the bottom of a crankcase or not: I haven't been able to figure out how to clean this part very well yet.

And here's where the crankshaft when the piston would be at the bottom of its stroke.


So - what are we looking at here ?

 

[blsnelling]

You should most definitely replace the piston. I would clean the cylinder by hand with 320-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The crankcase looks as though it's ingested lots of fines through a bad filter. Does the crank spin freely? Is there any play in the ends of the crank? Does the rod have any radial play? Even a new crank will have side play.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

Brad,

Some of the junk in there might have come from when I was brushing mineral spirits around and them blowing compressed air... I didn't block the bottom end very end. But that wouldn't explain any damage.

The crank moves freely. I'm glad to hear that there's always side to side play. If I hold the bottom part of the crankshaft, and try to move the top part of the crankshaft, there is no up and down play that I can detect. Same was true when I hold the top part of the crankshaft and tried to move the piston...no up and down play.

I'll order a new piston. The cylinder/bottom end gasket also tore when I pulled the cylinder so will order that too as well as a carb kit. have a full set of rubber parts coming from Huztl on eBay. Do I need to go OEM on the rubber parts ? one OEM mount costs more than what a full set of parts costs shipped from China.

Anything else I ought to order while I'm at it ?

Since the saw is apart, I guess I can't test if the crank seals are leaking. Was it a mistake to pull the cylinder before testing for leaks ?


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[McPherson]

I did brush the top of my piston gently with a copper brush to clean it and see the arrow. For me the P&C is looking good, maybe pics don't give justice to what really is but as I see it's ok.

The cast/lathe marks on the crank are normal, mostly for correcting casting glitch but could be also for balancing issues but not often. If bearings looks ok and everything runs smooth just clean everything and put all back together.

 

[drf255]

If I read it all correctly, you need a new intake boot with the clamp as well.

When you order the piston, go OEM or Meteor only. Most of the others are junk.

For that crankcase, add fuel mix to it and start rotating the assembly. It will help wash out the junk. Ideally, the last step should be pulling the seals to wash anything out of the bearings, but I think you'll get by without that.

Then after draining the case, squish up a paper towel and put on one end of the crank while at TDC. Then rotate it through the case. It will wipe out a lot of junk.

It REALLY looks like your dealer tried to put the screw on you with that saw. It's not that bad. I'm wondering what happened to the intake boot clamp though, and the case does look like its full of foreign matter.

If the jug was on, and you plugged the ports and impulse line, nothing coulda got in the case when you cleaned it. That's assuming you didn't pull the jug first (which we've all done).

 

[blsnelling]

When you order the piston, go OEM or Meteor only. Most of the others are junk.

Absolutely. Most Stihl OEM pistons are <$50 now.

For gaskets and crank seals, get the "set of gaskets" from Stihl.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

.

If the jug was on, and you plugged the ports and impulse line, nothing coulda got in the case when you cleaned it. That's assuming you didn't pull the jug first (which we've all done).

I was a dummy and didn't plug anything before I pulled the cylinder. I was just so eager to see what was in there I didn't think things through. Lesson learned.



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[NuggyBuggy]

Absolutely. Most Stihl OEM pistons are <$50 now.

For gaskets and crank seals, get the "set of gaskets" from Stihl.

should I replace the crank seals now, or should I replace piston, put back the top end, and then do pressure/vacuum test first to see if I need to replace the crank seals ?

Is this something I can do without special tools ? I did buy an automotive seal puller the other day. crank seal replacement looked like one of the trickier processes on the videos I've seen.


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[swatbwana]

Crank seals are cheap I'd replace the piston wash out the case get it all buttoned up then I'd replace the crank seals

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[swatbwana]

Crank seals may look daunting but they're actually very easy to replace

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[blsnelling]

Pull the crank seals before flushing the case.

 

[drf255]

Pull the crank seals before flushing the case.

I'd say do both. The seals will hold the mix in to wash the case first. Then on the last wash, the mix will flush out the bearings as well.

 

[swatbwana]

I'd say do both. The seals will hold the mix in to wash the case first. Then on the last wash, the mix will flush out the bearings as well.

Yeah I didn't explain it well I'd fill it with mix wash it out real good with the current seals then pull the seals to drain it out hopefully anything that got in the bearings would Wash through.
I have had good luck with dental picks for pulling the old seals
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[Trx250r180]

On your piston direction ,the ring indexing pins/ ring gaps should be on the intake side of the cylinder . No need for an arrow on the piston .

 

[NuggyBuggy]

OK, so I figure I ought to protect all the parts I stripped with metal cleaner until I put things back together. The saw is being worked on for the most part on my dining room table so I'm looking for solutions that are as safe and non-smelly as possible.

What do you guys recommend ? I know a lot of woodworking guys swear by Boeshield T9 for their table saws and stuff, would that work ? Or should I go with WD40, two-stroke, or something else ?

 

[swatbwana]

Simple green works well

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[Trx250r180]

If you are working in the kitchen run it through the dishwasher .

 

[blsnelling]

The dishwasher and detergent will rust any and all steel parts. If you're going to use it, you need to disassemble and remove the crank and bearings.

 

[drf255]

The dishwasher and detergent will rust any and all steel parts. If you're going to use it, you need to disassemble and remove the crank and bearings.

And get a divorce attorney on retainer.....

 

[Trx250r180]

And get a divorce attorney on retainer.....

Well i am not allowed to even bring saws in the house ,you got a step ahead of me